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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just recently installed the agp turbo intake and also the hks blow off valve. will installing the atp block off plate i have cause me to get a cel?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I followed the hks directions that came with the kit. Used a T and connected lines on driver side
 

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I followed the hks directions that came with the kit. Used a T and connected lines on driver side
Unfortunately, If you use the driver side method (thus bypassing the OEM BCS) and use a block off plate, you will have a CEL.

Only way of preventing the CEL is to get a reflash from BR or PA and ask for it to be disabled.

You did have to cap one outlet on the Passenger side right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
yea 2 actually. removed one hose completely from that T on passenger side and solenoid. then other hose from solenoid got removed and connected to the T in the place of the hose that was removed completely, then both spots on solenoid i capped off
 

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You will not get a CEL by using the block off plate. I have hooked up two different BOV's HKS and Synapse to the OEM BCS and both worked fine, with no CEL. Currently using the CP-E block off plate.
 

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I have the CPe set up with block off plate and HKS BOV. I unhooked the stock vacuum line from the stock BPV connected the Block off plate from CPe then connected the vacuum line from where the stock line was ran from the BPV then ran it to the HKS BOV. No CEL for 5 months now. I guess thats the right way anybody agree?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
any idea where i could find one of these T's for the re routing since the one for the hks install is for 2 8mm connections and 1 4mm. i plan on doing the re routing like in the pics just have to grab more vaccum line and find the T. any ideas would be great. thanks!!
 

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Autozone or advanced auto has a grab box of different size "T"'s for like $3. they probably have boost line too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks ill run and check out autozone in the morning after work
 

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You will not get a CEL by using the block off plate. I have hooked up two different BOV's HKS and Synapse to the OEM BCS and both worked fine, with no CEL. Currently using the CP-E block off plate.
Simple reading comprehension problem here friend.

I followed the hks directions that came with the kit. Used a T and connected lines on driver side
yea 2 actually. removed one hose completely from that T on passenger side and solenoid. then other hose from solenoid got removed and connected to the T in the place of the hose that was removed completely, then both spots on solenoid i capped off
If you read a bit further into the posts, you would see I never said a block off ONLY would give a CEL. Block off plate + BCS bypass will.

He said that he capped 2 of the BCS ports and routed the new BOV from the Driver side vacuum sources. Basically bypassing the BCS.

In that instance, without a reflash, you will have a CEL.
 

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I have the CPe set up with block off plate and HKS BOV. I unhooked the stock vacuum line from the stock BPV connected the Block off plate from CPe then connected the vacuum line from where the stock line was ran from the BPV then ran it to the HKS BOV. No CEL for 5 months now. I guess thats the right way anybody agree?
It's effectively the proper way to hook it up, but not exactly what the OP did, well form what he described.
 

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I have the CPe set up with block off plate and HKS BOV. I unhooked the stock vacuum line from the stock BPV connected the Block off plate from CPe then connected the vacuum line from where the stock line was ran from the BPV then ran it to the HKS BOV. No CEL for 5 months now. I guess thats the right way anybody agree?
+1......Just Remove the stock BPV install the plate and trace the vac line from the stock BPV you just removed to the solenoid and replace it with a longer vac line to the HKS BOV. Done with No CEL. Dont waste your time using those T's.


Sent from my iPhone
 

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wrong

+1......Just Remove the stock BPV install the plate and trace the vac line from the stock BPV you just removed to the solenoid and replace it with a longer vac line to the HKS BOV. Done with No CEL. Dont waste your time using those T's.


Sent from my iPhone
Plz ser many other threads thats say the solenoid isnt strong enough for the hks it needs more air which is why that hook it up to the intake manifold
 

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.... sigh~~~

It's the opposite. Where did you even get your info from?

Even Synapse says to plumb it like stock.

http://www.gencoupe.com/2-0t-discussion-2008-2012/124440-stock-bov-flutter-sound-compressor-surge-2.html#post1455605
Lots of flutter/surge threads have been remedied from running the BOV directly to the IM.

The synapse will work perfect/great with the stock solenoid however other heavier springed BOV's will not. I was having this issue with my HKS. Switched over to the IM and have not had a single problem since.

Also, BTR recommends not using any of the ECS EBCS and illiminates them all together.

I've eliminated both my solenoids on my setup and I'm running perfectly fine. HKS responds 10x quicker connected directly to the IM. Not a single sound of surge or flutter here.
 

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your retarded biatch

Lots of flutter/surge threads have been remedied from running the BOV directly to the IM.

The synapse will work perfect/great with the stock solenoid however other heavier springed BOV's will not. I was having this issue with my HKS. Switched over to the IM and have not had a single problem since.

Also, BTR recommends not using any of the ECS EBCS and illiminates them all together.

I've eliminated both my solenoids on my setup and I'm running perfectly fine. HKS responds 10x quicker connected directly to the IM. Not a single sound of surge or flutter here.
I call bs contradiction... first you say lots of people have had surging and fluttering running it to the IM then you say you switched yours 2 the Im and haven't had a problem since... lolz but you call me retarded. Since there is like 6 different ways of hooking this up you don't know the proper way to use a bop and a hks bov hooked up to the TB without getting a cel code do you. Mind your manners bro I appreciate the help but fuks sake. It obviously isnt a retarded question when lots of posts have been here about it. While there has been several different answers. You said yourself that you hooked it up wrong first. Fortunately for me I try to do things the right way the first time, even if I have to get into a pissing contest with a wanna be kia...
 

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I call bs contradiction... first you say lots of people have had surging and fluttering running it to the IM then you say you switched yours 2 the Im and haven't had a problem since... lolz but you call me retarded. Since there is like 6 different ways of hooking this up you don't know the proper way to use a bop and a hks bov hooked up to the TB without getting a cel code do you. Mind your manners bro I appreciate the help but fuks sake. It obviously isnt a retarded question when lots of posts have been here about it. While there has been several different answers. You said yourself that you hooked it up wrong first. Fortunately for me I try to do things the right way the first time, even if I have to get into a pissing contest with a wanna be kia...
You're full of it. Please stop spreading poison around the forums.
I don't even use either one of the solenoids so NO i would not say people have problems running to the IM. I advise using the IM and IM only for bov source.

Seriously please head back to the Civic forum.
 

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Lots of flutter/surge threads have been remedied from running the BOV directly to the IM.

The synapse will work perfect/great with the stock solenoid however other heavier springed BOV's will not. I was having this issue with my HKS. Switched over to the IM and have not had a single problem since.

Also, BTR recommends not using any of the ECS EBCS and illiminates them all together.

I've eliminated both my solenoids on my setup and I'm running perfectly fine. HKS responds 10x quicker connected directly to the IM. Not a single sound of surge or flutter here.
What I was referring to was this part of his statement.

Plz ser many other threads thats say the solenoid isnt strong enough for the hks it needs more air which is why that hook it up to the intake manifold
Keep it on track, the thread issue is the CEL coming on.

As far as flutter, that is do to the oscillating of the valve of the solenoid do to PWM and the BOV being a boost assisted valve design. The oscillations can be dampen just by using the filter that comes with the bov, or even using a 90* bend fitting.

Notice that NO piston/spring design BOV has or will have flutter issue because of running a solenoid.

As for not enough vacuum, the tank is design to hold 25~30 psi of vacuum and hold it there when the bov solenoid is activated for well over 10 secs if needed (it's a closed system and the check valve prevents an uncontrolled vacuum leak). running it straight from the IM, you'll be luck to even hit 25 psi of vacuum for a second, off throttle. And decel doesn't count.

On the stock setup, the bpv is connected to the solenoid. the solenoid has two inputs, and the actual solenoid valve between the 2 inputs.
so the bpv only sees vacuum on 1 input, and boost on the other.
What PWM does, is partially opens the solenoid valve to "blend" the boost and vacuum inputs.
And the REASON why the BOV would even need this, is because the WGA solenoid gets it's vacuum source THROUGH the bpv solenoid.
 

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I call bs contradiction... first you say lots of people have had surging and fluttering running it to the IM then you say you switched yours 2 the Im and haven't had a problem since... lolz but you call me retarded. Since there is like 6 different ways of hooking this up you don't know the proper way to use a bop and a hks bov hooked up to the TB without getting a cel code do you. Mind your manners bro I appreciate the help but fuks sake. It obviously isnt a retarded question when lots of posts have been here about it. While there has been several different answers. You said yourself that you hooked it up wrong first. Fortunately for me I try to do things the right way the first time, even if I have to get into a pissing contest with a wanna be kia...
I don't know, why you're getting you panties all up in a bunch.

disagreeing with someone is one thing, but arguing without any logic to it, is just stupid.

He says it works for him, well good for him.
It doesn't mean it will work for everybody else.

Not knowing the operations of the stock setup and making assumptions, is a dangerous way about fixing an issue, and I just present the info I've come to the conclusion of. (I've ran a oscilloscope on both solenoids to look at the operations, when one of my solenoids died).
Not saying that you can't going about fixing stuff that way.
 
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