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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys I have a 2013 2.0t Premium, and just recently had some GSC stage 1 cams put in with tune. Picked up the car and probably 40 minutes into driving back home had a blown head gasket. So I thought maybe it was weak and added power finished it up. So got it replaced and literally a day and a half after new one got put in blew it again, I literally have no idea why. Everything in block was good no damage to valves nothing just gasket. Anybody have any experience using gsc stage 1 cams or have an idea on what the issue could be? One thing I find weird is I had a rough idle only on cold starts but only for like 15 seconds then after that it would idle fine also tried raising rpms a bit to see if it’d have a hard time returning to regular idle but goes back just fine. Any ideas?
 

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are you reusing the head bolts and what procedure are you using to torque them down? (you're not suppose to reuse head bolts)
 

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Couple of things

So its not the cams per se,...but their net actions in the combustion cycle which make your car "more aggressive" so we will say. What this has done is :

1. Exposed a structural weak spot in your head/gasket/stud. Some refer to this a stretch the head bolts/studs. It allows the pressure to leak out at a given spot,Sometimes it manifests itself a "pushing coolant", into the overflow.

I would ask, the first time this happened did the mechanic that did the work take note of the specific failure point. After the first repair,...did it fail at the same point. If this is so it is as I mentioned above for sure.

Oem head gaskets suck, oem head bolts/studs suck even worse.

Solution:

1. Higher quality aftermarket multi layer steel and rubber head gasket.
2. Above headgasket installed with K-copper aerosol
3 ARP class 10 studs

After that, turn her up and have fun.
 

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So its not the cams per se,...but their net actions in the combustion cycle which make your car "more aggressive" so we will say. What this has done is :

1. Exposed a structural weak spot in your head/gasket/stud. Some refer to this a stretch the head bolts/studs. It allows the pressure to leak out at a given spot,Sometimes it manifests itself a "pushing coolant", into the overflow.

I would ask, the first time this happened did the mechanic that did the work take note of the specific failure point. After the first repair,...did it fail at the same point. If this is so it is as I mentioned above for sure.

Oem head gaskets suck, oem head bolts/studs suck even worse.

Solution:

1. Higher quality aftermarket multi layer steel and rubber head gasket.
2. Above headgasket installed with K-copper aerosol
3 ARP class 10 studs

After that, turn her up and have fun.
oem head studs on just about almost all engines are torque/stretch bolts. The bolts are meant to be torqued to spec, then rotated to a certain degree angle, to stretch them.
The reason to stretch them is so the threads expand, so it will bind the threads into the block, so the bolts don't back out.
This also adds more torque the bolts than what they were torqued to.

The limitations to this is that the bolts are 1 time use and the metallurgical limits of the bolts' clamping force. What I mean is the bolts shouldn't stretch any further from a sudden pushing/pulling force, it would have to be a constant force acting on the fasteners.

The GSC stage 1 cams, if I found the correct listing, are only 10mm/10.2mm lift
The OEM cams IIRC, are somewhere around 9.5~mm

With multiple headgasket failures (assuming new head bolts/studs were used and engine not modified too much), I suspect the block and/or head was warped to begin with and will need to be decked.
 

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If your going to deck the block he should still do all the above. By stretch, I mean beyond what the correct "torquing" should accomplish.


Honestly any fix here involves tons of labor. The real question for the OP is how efficient with that labor cost does he want to be.

Im a big fan of,"when your in the nieghborhood". That is he has to spend X amount on labor to just get to a remedy. Nows the time to make lemonade out of lemons. I know you dont want to be here but youre here.

Now is the time to think about fully forged internals,..new main bearings coated with that race ****. 50 psi sleeves. ARP race studs with timeserts. $$$$ Yes, but even if you just remedy her, youll spend 50% of the labor cost to do everything above.

Thats if the block is still sound.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Really appreciate all your guys feedback, definitely gonna check if head is warped in any way. Gasket failed around same cylinder as last time. Everything was torqued back correctly, new bolts where used I mean I just didn’t see it coming the second time. I got a performance tune done with show tune also with pops. Second time gasket blew I didn’t even do any hard pulls just normal driving, made the exhaust pop a couple times while parked. Next day went to turn car on blown head gasket literally on startup. I’m going to start taking heads off sometime this week but depending on just what I find I might LS swap at this point.
 
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