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i was about this _ close to taking this thing back tonight. BUT.. i found a solution that worked for my car. after spending a few hrs looking around ive seen some guys unplug the connector on the top of the clutch pedal. figured i would give it a try, hell its free right. So i took it on a meet and beat session. HOLY CRAP its the car it should be. traction control off i can spin the tires in 2nd and 3rd, and its super smooth transition. no more bogging down.
 

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Thanks for the update Ceejkay!
Well we can rule out if it's the transmission. So I guess we have came to the conclusion that our 2014 2.0t's need an aftermarket tune to run like they should.
 

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I tried unplugging that connector at the top of the clutch and it gave me great throttle reponse but I can't go past 5000 rpm, like rev limiter while in gear. Did you do something different other than just unplug it while the cars running?
 

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Need more power !
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This makes me sad as well , I was wondering why the car felt so weak at times compared to me 2011. I guess I will have to get it tuned soon.
 

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I tried unplugging that connector at the top of the clutch and it gave me great throttle reponse but I can't go past 5000 rpm, like rev limiter while in gear. Did you do something different other than just unplug it while the cars running?
I had the same issue with my 2014 2.0t R-Spec. Another alternative is bridging the connection once you unplug it from the switch using some spades and wire from your local hardware store. (I can post a picture of what I mean if needed). After doing that I found that throttle response is unimproved but the car no longer falls on its face when you shift. However, an issue arises that caused me to just leave everything alone and wait for a tune which was that when you push in the clutch to change gears the car revs about 300-500 rpm. Not to big of an issue but when I'm shifting at redline I do not enjoy the fact that it's still trying to rev higher. Also noticed that rev hang is much worse. After trying everything I could think of I have decided to just wait for a tune to resolve the issue.
 

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i was about this _ close to taking this thing back tonight. BUT.. i found a solution that worked for my car. after spending a few hrs looking around ive seen some guys unplug the connector on the top of the clutch pedal. figured i would give it a try, hell its free right. So i took it on a meet and beat session. HOLY CRAP its the car it should be. traction control off i can spin the tires in 2nd and 3rd, and its super smooth transition. no more bogging down.
What was your car/transmission doing that you took it in to the dealer and what was there fix?
 

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What was your car/transmission doing that you took it in to the dealer and what was there fix?
i am having a problem with a noise when i push in the clutch. Its making a clicking/banging noise. when i turn off the car it literally sounds like the flywheel is coming out the bottom of the car. they have replaced the rear dif bolts and the entire transmission. i still have the noise and they still have the car. 305 miles on the car btw

also when i unplugged the connector i couldnt get above 5k rpms either.
 

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Haltech Employee
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i am having a problem with a noise when i push in the clutch. Its making a clicking/banging noise. when i turn off the car it literally sounds like the flywheel is coming out the bottom of the car. they have replaced the rear dif bolts and the entire transmission. i still have the noise and they still have the car. 305 miles on the car btw

also when i unplugged the connector i couldnt get above 5k rpms either.
When you are in reverse or first gear, release the clutch without giving it has or stalling the car, does it do it then?

I'm having an issue now with some clanking/banging and seems there is play in my driveshaft. Taken mine Monday to get looked at.
 

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I hate that my car does this. So annoying...

Very informative thread here. Glad it was posted. Ugh... Can't wait until I can afford a tune lol.
 

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This isn't helping the thread, but it's hilarious (to me) that your video was against a Prelude.

My first car was a black Prelude and then I moved over the Genesis after the tranny gave out on me. Thought I'd share. :grin:
 

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'14 2.0t R-Spec
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Quick update - I did the connector bridge and like ScarlettGen said it turns into beast mode able to spin through 2nd and chirp 3rd - but as soon as you clutch in, it revs 300-500 rpms up causing a headache for regular driving - I guess I'll wait until I get a tune next month and drive it normal.
 

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Need more power !
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Getting on the highway this morning and almost redline 2nd press clutch shift to 3rd and let up on the clutch and pow no power at all..
 

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Yes, very annoying. And dangerous sometimes. When I have to pass a slow-moving truck on two-lane country I won't even downshift below 4th anymore. If I shift to 3rd (or 2nd) and have to shift mid-pass.... the delay in power reapplication from the ECU is downright dangerous. I'm glad a tune fixes it as that has been the plan all along anyway.
 

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'14 2.0t R-Spec
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Final update : Got a tune and it fixed it and gives 100% throttle response - Even the delay in when my HKS was blowing off is reduced from a few miliseconds to instantly
 

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Very awesome to hear that!
 

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I don't know what to tell you. I don't have that problem at all. Car pulls like a maniac in every gear when I shift..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3CBe-RCXeEg
Hey B Spec, i noticed you're shifting at 6500 and not 7000. Looking at the dyno sheet, it looks like power on a high RPM is closest to 300 at about 6200 then dips and peaks again at 6800. Or do you always push it to 7000??

Thanks
 

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Hey B Spec, i noticed you're shifting at 6500 and not 7000. Looking at the dyno sheet, it looks like power on a high RPM is closest to 300 at about 6200 then dips and peaks again at 6800. Or do you always push it to 7000??

Thanks
I know that if i shift at or around 7100-7200 ill lose all boost between shifting. im also running off manifold. if i shift at 6900 or right at 7k, i usually dont lose anything.
 

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3.8 Driver
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If you **** too late you bounce off the rev limiter and cut power. I don't know what you guys are driving but stock the shift point is 6500. Shift at 6200 and it will bounce off redline perfectly.

Shift too early nothing is wrong you're just not getting full power out of the gears. Shift too late you cut power. Once you get a SFR tune it bumps the redline to 7200.
@darkvader0 I have never had that issue? At which point were you shifting?
 
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