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Discussion Starter #1
Before anyone says anything, I've been searching for a similar issue since yesterday with no luck. Nobody seems to be running the same bov.

Onto my issue: I have an original Greddy Type S bov that I've had since '02 which was on my '02 GTI 1.8T and '04 Jetta GLI. Both ran APR tunes at 20-22psi spikes. I recently found the bov after thinking I had lost it. I ordered a new NGR Performance diaphragm for it along with an adapter for the OEM location and basically rebuilt the valve yesterday.

Installed it the same way the OEM bpv is connected and I can't see anything more than 10psi meanwhile my tune is good for 19psi. Doesn't matter if it's on the softest setting or the hardest setting, nothing over 10psi and no distinct Type S sound (anyone who knows this valve knows it has a very distinct sound).

As soon as I put the OEM bpv back on, boom...19psi.

Searched the forum last night and figured I'd try routing the vacuum line a different way.

I did the following:

1) removed the line from the bov to the OEM solenoid and capped it.
2) ran a vacuum line from the bov to the IM and tee'd into the line with the black & white check valve like this:




Still can't see anything over 10psi of boost. Doesn't matter what setting I have the bov on. Put the OEM bpv back on and back to my normal 19psi spike.

Any suggestions? I'm stumped. It's a great valve so I'd like to use it! They had issues with the diaphragms, but the NGR one (they make a copy of the original Type S bov) is much beefier.
 

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Before anyone says anything, I've been searching for a similar issue since yesterday with no luck. Nobody seems to be running the same bov.

Onto my issue: I have an original Greddy Type S bov that I've had since '02 which was on my '02 GTI 1.8T and '04 Jetta GLI. Both ran APR tunes at 20-22psi spikes. I recently found the bov after thinking I had lost it. I ordered a new NGR Performance diaphragm for it along with an adapter for the OEM location and basically rebuilt the valve yesterday.

Installed it the same way the OEM bpv is connected and I can't see anything more than 10psi meanwhile my tune is good for 19psi. Doesn't matter if it's on the softest setting or the hardest setting, nothing over 10psi and no distinct Type S sound (anyone who knows this valve knows it has a very distinct sound).

As soon as I put the OEM bpv back on, boom...19psi.

Searched the forum last night and figured I'd try routing the vacuum line a different way.

I did the following:

1) removed the line from the bov to the OEM solenoid and capped it.
2) ran a vacuum line from the bov to the IM and tee'd into the line with the black & white check valve like this:




Still can't see anything over 10psi of boost. Doesn't matter what setting I have the bov on. Put the OEM bpv back on and back to my normal 19psi spike.

Any suggestions? I'm stumped. It's a great valve so I'd like to use it! They had issues with the diaphragms, but the NGR one (they make a copy of the original Type S bov) is much beefier.
If you bypassed both solenoids, then your are only running wastegate pressure.

the OEM wastegate actuator only has about a 6~8 psi spring IIRC. That and the rubber lines in the system flexing, gets you about 10 psi.

The wastegate solenoid opens and closes rapidly to limit the amount of vacuum the wastegate sees.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Hmm, now I'm confused in regards to your "if you bypassed both solenoids" comment.

The first time I installed it, I put the valve in the oem location and connected the vacuum line that ran to the oem bpv to the nipple of the Type S. That resulted in 10psi max.

Second time I installed it, I installed the valve, removed the oem vacuum line and capped the nipple (one) at the solenoid, then T'd into the vacuum line like the pic above. Same result.

When I installed the oem bpv back in, it worked fine.

I didn't bypass 2 solenoids, that I know of....

edit: Here's a pic...see the capped nipple? That's how I set it up the second time. Then ran the line from the bov to the IM 't'.

 

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looks right. stuck bov, line coming off the compressor housing came loose, boost leak?

things I would do in order. check for if lines aren't loose, check bov if it's closing properly, check to see if bov gasket/o-rings are damaged, check for boost leaks.

if all else fails put the stock bpr valve back on and see if it holds boost, with how you have the lines now.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
CSi owns! lol.

I don't think it is, seems to work fine when I push the piston in, nice and smooth plus it has a new diaphragm as well.

One thing I noticed after putting everything back to stock...the oem vacuum line that goes to the bpv nipple from the top of the right bov solenoid doesn't seem to have any suction at all, it's a vacuum line, it should have some suction, no?

Here's how I had it setup last before putting it all back to stock. The red dotted line is the vacuum line for the bov.






Another odd thing, after putting everything back to stock, this line from the intake to over near the brake booster started making a weird noise, almost like a honking sound. Hard to describe. I removed it and capped off the end of the metal line that runs along the valve cover. Pretty sure I'd seen others do the same with no ill effects. Seems to be running ok without it.

 

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where's your intake pipe?

If the open metal vacuum line is that one that runs along the back of the valve cover, that one is suppose to plug into the intake pipe.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
It's installed, just not in that pic.

Come on man, this ins't my first rodeo!! lol

I had everything hooked up just like OEM and that line started making a weird ass noise so I took it off and capped it at the metal pipe end. No more noise and no ill effects.

Now, if I could figure out wtf is going on with the BOV setup.

I'll ask again, the vacuum line going to the OEM bpv, when removed from the nipple on the bpv, should have suction correct?
 

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It's installed, just not in that pic.

Come on man, this ins't my first rodeo!! lol

I had everything hooked up just like OEM and that line started making a weird ass noise so I took it off and capped it at the metal pipe end. No more noise and no ill effects.

Now, if I could figure out wtf is going on with the BOV setup.

I'll ask again, the vacuum line going to the OEM bpv, when removed from the nipple on the bpv, should have suction correct?
Just wait, until you run into heavy braking.

That line is one of the 4 lines that make up the vacuum system for the brake booster.
if anything, it's probably that 4 way check valve that's making the noise.

FYI for those of you with automatics, they don't have this, because they have a vacuum pump for this system. You will see a 3 way T in place of this, with one of the lines going to the front of the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Just wait, until you run into heavy braking.

That line is one of the 4 lines that make up the vacuum system for the brake booster.
if anything, it's probably that 4 way check valve that's making the noise.

FYI for those of you with automatics, they don't have this, because they have a vacuum pump for this system. You will see a 3 way T in place of this, with one of the lines going to the front of the car.

Already have run into heavy braking, with no issues. I wish I could find the thread, @Red Raspberry posted that he was running the same way for a while with no issues.
 

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Already have run into heavy braking, with no issues. I wish I could find the thread, @Red Raspberry posted that he was running the same way for a while with no issues.
I've never had a lack of brakes with that line disconnected. At what point would you be using brakes heavily and have no vacuum?
 

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When your backing out of your drive way in neutral. Without the engine on to sneak out of the house. That is why that line is there lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
When your backing out of your drive way in neutral. Without the engine on to sneak out of the house. That is why that line is there lol.
Thankfully I'm 36 and don't have to sneak out of anywhere. lol
 

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Discussion Starter #16
When your engine dies for whatever reason while on the road and have to initiate an emergency braking maneuver.
What is a 6" piece of hose that goes into the intake going to do to help that specific situation?

I'm not trying to be a dick, but do you have any proof that this line is necessary for safety concerns? I know, I know, "Hyundai engineers are smarter than you are" is coming. I'm sure the VW Engineers were too, yet I was able to remove a **** ton of basically useless vacuum lines from both my 1.8Ts, with no ill effects at all. The second one I had for 10 years, 4 of which were with the vacuum line deletions.
 

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What is a 6" piece of hose that goes into the intake going to do to help that specific situation?

I'm not trying to be a dick, but do you have any proof that this line is necessary for safety concerns? I know, I know, "Hyundai engineers are smarter than you are" is coming. I'm sure the VW Engineers were too, yet I was able to remove a **** ton of basically useless vacuum lines from both my 1.8Ts, with no ill effects at all. The second one I had for 10 years, 4 of which were with the vacuum line deletions.
It's for emmissions.
Venting is to be done only in 2 places on an engine, the intake and the exhaust. That's why people fail visual inspection, when they have a breather filter on.

Sometimes, Like to put ants in people's pant's with then knowing it :p
Plus there hasn't been much talk on the forum for the last few years.
 
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