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· Parts Pro & Lic Mechanic
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey Guys,

Just curious what fluid everyone is using when they flush their brake fluid?

I plan on replacing it in the spring and looking at some ATE Super Dot 4, Class 6 brake fluid. It's a premium brake fluid, however I noticed it is low viscosity. Just curious if this would still be ok?, and if anyone has noticed any wear and tear on the ABS modual, seal leaks, or any long term effects?

The OEM spec is Dot 3, so obviously Dot 4 is a slight upgrade, however I am alittle leery about using a lower viscosity, I am concerned about additional wear or long-term effect from using it.


ATE Super Dot 4 (minimum)
Boiling point - 265 DegC (509degF)
Wet Boiling point - 175 DegC (347degF)

I know it seems dismal to debate different fluids and their specs, however I find it very interesting when someone can find a better fluid for the same price as a brand name...........I try to look past the marketing, and look at a fluids real qualities, rather than it's fancy packaging.

ALWAYS REMEMBER - A small change such as a fluid can make a huge difference in a products longevity and performance.

Duro
 

· I'd rather do it myself
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20,413 Posts
Valvoline synthetic $8 a quart at AutoZone



Valvoline® DOT 3 & 4 Brake Fluid

For all ABS, drum or disc brake systems requiring DOT 3 or DOT 4 fluid

Compatible with all braking systems requiring a DOT 3 or DOT 4 fluid
Mixes well with conventional fluids
High dry boiling point up to 480°F reduces the risk of fluid evaporation and possible brake failure
Low-moisture formula provides excellent vapor lock protection
Maximizes ABS performance
Ideal for hydraulic and disc brakes
Surpasses specifications SAE J1703, FMVSS No. 116 and DOT 4 Motor Vehicle Brake Fluid
Minimum wet boiling point is 311°F
 

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I did a full flush and went with Lucas Dot 4 synthetic. Valvoline comes highly recommended on the forums but I couldn't find it (didn't look very hard though).

I did my fluid change the same time I swapped pads for Hawk ones (along with SS lines) and it got rid of 90% of the heat fade I was getting with the oem setup. Very happy with the switch!
 

· Wrench and ride!
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ATE Super Blue. Best stuff you can get in a can. And if you alternate between Super-Blue and Super-Gold, you're always sure a good flush is complete. Just pump past the color.

Cheers


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
Blue has been discontinued in the U.S. because the blue color does not comply with U.S. Dot regulations. What is on shelves will continue to be sold, but when it's gone, it's gone.
 

· Parts Pro & Lic Mechanic
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Blue has been discontinued in the U.S. because the blue color does not comply with U.S. Dot regulations. What is on shelves will continue to be sold, but when it's gone, it's gone.
The ATE type200 is the same fluid without the dye............They whole point of the blue dye to know when the old fluid has been flushed out.

The more I rear about the low viscosity fluid the more I like it, as I drive mostly on the highway and on public roads with a few only track days a year, the few degree's lower boiling point will not be an issue 99% of the time, and with the Brembo's.

I would have to be a complete idiot to overheat my breaks on our short tracks. We don't have super high speed ovals or super long straights able to achieve top speeds needed to overheat brakes, ours are short bursts spaced apart to allow cooling.

I think I will try it and see whats it's like, hopefully is allows the abs to work easier and last longer........

Duro
 

· Parts Pro & Lic Mechanic
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The red Brembos will turn brown over time if you really heat up the calipers. Only have seen that on a couple of cars.
I'll never get them that hot.................no worries there

Duro
 

· Parts Pro & Lic Mechanic
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Nothing a full rebuild and fresh powder coating won't fix…..………
 

· Parts Pro & Lic Mechanic
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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
It's a badge of honor to have gotten your Brownbos that hot. They are proud of them :)
I wouldn't say it's a badge of honor, I would say that person can't drive the car properly and consistently overheated/over running the brakes.

If you are consistently overheating your brakes then you are over driving the car and must look into creating more grip (tires/suspension) to be able to maintain more speed through the corners thus needing to scrub off less speed upon entry.

I am not a person to do this, I am simply looking for the best fluid both for performance and long-term reliability of the hydraulic system itself.

Just my 2 cents
Duro
 

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8,280 Posts
I wouldn't say it's a badge of honor, I would say that person can't drive the car properly and consistently overheated/over running the brakes.

If you are consistently overheating your brakes then you are over driving the car and must look into creating more grip (tires/suspension) to be able to maintain more speed through the corners thus needing to scrub off less speed upon entry.

I am not a person to do this, I am simply looking for the best fluid both for performance and long-term reliability of the hydraulic system itself.

Just my 2 cents
Duro
Automatic Transmissions and the Dragon... two things that will get your brakes glowing red hot! We are often punching it up to 70+ in the straights (that don't really last more than .1 or .2 miles)... and then hitting the corners hard. If you drive a manual, you only need two gears... 2nd and 3rd; however, because autos tend to force shift at a certain RPM, they tend to use their brakes instead of their engines to control speed... even in "sport" mode.
 

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Hey Guys,

Just curious what fluid everyone is using when they flush their brake fluid?

I plan on replacing it in the spring and looking at some ATE Super Dot 4, Class 6 brake fluid. It's a premium brake fluid, however I noticed it is low viscosity. Just curious if this would still be ok?, and if anyone has noticed any wear and tear on the ABS modual, seal leaks, or any long term effects?

The OEM spec is Dot 3, so obviously Dot 4 is a slight upgrade, however I am alittle leery about using a lower viscosity, I am concerned about additional wear or long-term effect from using it.


ATE Super Dot 4 (minimum)
Boiling point - 265 DegC (509degF)
Wet Boiling point - 175 DegC (347degF)

I know it seems dismal to debate different fluids and their specs, however I find it very interesting when someone can find a better fluid for the same price as a brand name...........I try to look past the marketing, and look at a fluids real qualities, rather than it's fancy packaging.

ALWAYS REMEMBER - A small change such as a fluid can make a huge difference in a products longevity and performance.

Duro
I am testing a few different types of DOT4 plus/super types of brake fluids. Will give an update in the near future for the results. Mostly concerned about seals in the brake/clutch systems. Starting with Mercedes bens DOT4 plus. We'll see if it screws up anything haha...
 

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2014 Hoondai 🏎️💨 GC 2.0T FBO+SFR
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Thanks for the great info. I have never done a brake fluid exchange on my car with 97k miles. I have tested the brake fluid and the color still clear and the water moisture percentage is less than 3%.
Maybe it's because I only use my brakes the least possible.
 

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So I am deciding on using Motul DOT 5.1.

Does anyone have any advice if it’s a good idea or should I just stick with whatever was in it in the first place.

I got this idea from watching Scotty Kilmer on youtube and he said this is the best brake fluid to put in your car.

Thanks
 

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I'd stick with good old D.O.T. 3 or 4, unless your racing, (or even if you are), it's going to work just fine, it's readily available and affordable. Also the higher the boiling point the more hydroscopic the fluid is and the more often it should be changed. The term "best" can often be subjective.
 
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