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What suspension parts am I gonna need to get some serious camber out of my car? Thanks
 

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The only reason you should/would be going negative camber is if You're planning on running a very wide wheel with a stretched tire setup. If you're not then I wouldn't think about going negative. I'm actually getting out of the stretched tire scene because in my opinion it's not worth it blowing beads so easy on a pothole. I hate my stretched tires with negative camber setup. Stiff ass ride too. But I run d2 racing suspension.
 

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What suspension parts am I gonna need to get some serious camber out of my car? Thanks
You can get the ISR rear upper camber/control arms and compliment it with the ISR rear toe arms. Megan Racing also makes those. That way, you can dial in the rear camber and toe to what you desire. You can probably get up to -4 if you max it out.
As far as the front, you can get coilovers with camber plates and run the camber bolts with it. For more extreme measures, you can get the ISR front lower ‘rearward’ control arms. I can get up to -4 in the front with just camber plates and camber bolts.
Just to give you an idea, my fronts used to be -3 and the rear used to be -2 with plenty of room to add more camber. Since I am daily-ing and tracking/autocrossing my car, i found that -1.5ish all around is optimal for my driving/setup.
Also, if you plan on going with those adjustable arms I mentioned, I highly recommend getting the eccentric lockout bolt kit from ISR. It eliminates the rear camber and toe adjuster bolts. If you hit a bump hard enough, the factory adjusters can shift which can cause you to be out of alignment. The kit keeps the control/toe arms centered in its mounting place, preventing that shift.
 
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