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Discussion Starter #1
So my good luck continues! A couple days ago I was driving my Gen and it shut off out of the blue. No weird noises, no loss of power, engine just turned off.
The coil packs and throttle body are buzzing while the key is off. The fan constantly runs. The buzzing stops if I unplug the evap purge solenoid.
The engine cranks but just will not start. I'm getting oodles of codes. I'm suspecting either bad ecu or a short in the wiring harness.
The only similar thing I've found to this was someone who had their immobilizer go bad. I have a base model with no immobilizer.
Any help at all would be very appreciated!

The codes I am getting. I wasn't getting any of these before the car shut off.
 

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Hard to go by so little info, but Crankshaft Position Sensors go bad on a lot of cars- it is a common problem. That is also at the top of that list and may explain the other things too.

Also- what does it sound like when you crank it? Can you post a sound sample of the car cranking but not starting? The noise of a Crankshaft position sensor is destinctive on some cars, I have never heard it on a Gen though. Could be an issue with timing too. Could be a lot of things. the sound it makes will help to narrow it down.
 

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by any chance, did you clean the engine bay directly with water?

water getting into the CAS connector can cause a few of those codes. Just find the connector and tap out the water

and what do you mean by EVAP, because anything with EVAP has to do with gas tank venting. This can be caused by not having the gas cap on right, not having it on at all, or even just a bad gas cap.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I have not washed my engine bay in the 5 years I've owned this car lol. I can't even remember the last time it rained. I will see if I can get to the connector and reseat it.
There has to be a short somewhere in my wiring or ecu for the coil packs and throttle body to be getting power when the engine is off though. There is no damage to the outside of the loom anywhere.
I'll keep looking though. Thanks for the ideas.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I've checked all the fuses and they're good. Which is weird. I'd figure if there was a short somewhere it'd be blowing fuses.
There is continuity to ground from the circled locations. When you remove the harnesses there is only continuity to ground on the right one. It seems there is something grounded internally in this fuse box.
The circled locations should be connected to power not ground right?

This is not actually my fuse box. I have not connected anything aftermarket to this fuse box.
 

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The MAP is completely powered by the ECU. The IAT is part of the MAP and also completely powered by the ECU.

The rest, the ones in red, all get their power from a common source. In the engine compartment fuse box there is a joint connector.





 

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I've checked all the fuses and they're good. Which is weird. I'd figure if there was a short somewhere it'd be blowing fuses.
There is continuity to ground from the circled locations. When you remove the harnesses there is only continuity to ground on the right one. It seems there is something grounded internally in this fuse box.
The circled locations should be connected to power not ground right?

This is not actually my fuse box. I have not connected anything aftermarket to this fuse box.
The circled locations are direct battery power. One is connected to the battery the other is fused. That thin black bar between the two has multiple fuses in it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thank you! Your help is much appreciated!
I pulled that fuse bar out and they're all good. With that bar removed I'm getting continuity to ground on the right terminal of the fuse box.
I will bring these diagrams with me tonight and keep searching.
 

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looks like all the sensors.solenoids in question are power directly by the ecu....

Might need a new one. I suggest getting a tune sinnce those sources are cheaper than an OEM one from the dealer. about $700 and if its not the ecu, then you have one for when the wiring is sorted out.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
You should disconnect the ECU and see if you still have that post on the right grounded out.
Oops I forgot I left that out! If I disconnect the ecu, the post is no longer grounded out and the buzzing stops. I plug the ecu back in, everything is still fine. Once I turn the key to the on position, the buzzing and grounding out comes back and stays like that until I disconnect the ecu or battery.

Does the tach get its signal directly from the ecu? It always bounces around 7500 rpms when the buzzing is going on.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I have a PRW tune and the check engine light never comes on even when you first turn the key. Is this normal? I thought they just turned it off for certain sensors. Might be unrelated but it might help identify the problem as a bad ecu.
 
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