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Hey guys, I'm currently in the market for a CF BK2 hood right now and came across this. I tried looking for reviews on this hood but can't really find anything on it. It certainly looks good and the price is well under the other competitors (eBay bucks and promotions). Can anyone with this hood share their overall experience (fitment/quality) with it?
 

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Hey guys, I'm currently in the market for a CF BK2 hood right now and came across this. I tried looking for reviews on this hood but can't really find anything on it. It certainly looks good and the price is well under the other competitors (eBay bucks and promotions). Can anyone with this hood share their overall experience (fitment/quality) with it?
I have no experience, but just to let you know, no one that I know makes full carbonfiber hood/trunks for the genesis coupe of any year.
They are fiberglass with layer of carbonfiber.
 

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Don't get Carbon Creations. Fitment is horrible. I bought a CF trunk from them and it looks like my trunk is open from how bad the fitment is.
 

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shorttrack
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I have both VIS trunk and hood,no problems.I would suggest using hood pins along with your OEM hood latch assy.
 

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To add, remove the stock hood strut, and use something else to prop the hood open when needed
 

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shorttrack
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To add, remove the stock hood strut, and use something else to prop the hood open when needed
Yes,100%.The stock OEM strut will screw up your carbon fiber hood .I use a mono telescoping prop rod.
 

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shorttrack
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Where can I get these hood pins? Or is it something that will come with the aftermarket hood?
Got mine from Summit Racing .They have a large selection and price range .
 

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Yes,100%.The stock OEM strut will screw up your carbon fiber hood .I use a mono telescoping prop rod.
I've been toying with the idea of using a trunk strut for 92 jeep, since those were all fiberglass, but I'll probably end up just machine my own.

Still been trying to find either a fiberglass or completely carbon fiber option at a decent price.
Paying $700+ shipping for a so-so part is ridiculous to me. The reasoning of rarity and size is not a good enough reason.
I got a complete carbonfiber hood for a datsun 260z for $450 shipped straight from the manufacture like 6 years ago. The gen hood price haven't dropped since the first went on sale.
 

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shorttrack
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I've been toying with the idea of using a trunk strut for 92 jeep, since those were all fiberglass, but I'll probably end up just machine my own.

Still been trying to find either a fiberglass or completely carbon fiber option at a decent price.
Paying $700+ shipping for a so-so part is ridiculous to me. The reasoning of rarity and size is not a good enough reason.
I got a complete carbonfiber hood for a datsun 260z for $450 shipped straight from the manufacture like 6 years ago. The gen hood price haven't dropped since the first went on sale.
Z cars are what I ran and built during my USMC days in Okinawa Japan .L24 ported head w/ L28 electromotive valves,springs and TI retainers,280 z turbo siamese L 28 block ,Iskenderian rally cam,and lite weight rocker arms,.040'' forged piston 10.5:1 compression.Nissan diesel Maxima stroke crank with forged rods(forgot type) lite weight weight flywheel,race clutch ,full ss headers on back 3'' exhaust, adj oil reg etc,etc .50mm triple Mikuni side drafts and match ported intake manifold,CDI ignition .Those were the days (mid 1980's)Had a G-nose and pantera hatch .Car ran 12.00 at 122mph on motor . 3.2 L displacement
 

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shorttrack
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Telescopic strut was around $20.00 on amazon .
 

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shorttrack
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Yeah I paid too much for my hood ,after speaking with VIS racing and them viewing my car on GCtuner's web site they cut $400.00 off the trunk price .The VIS hood is by far the best for me because it is truly vented and very well made .It also comes with screw-in rain guards .The K2 trunk was important as well because the GEN COUPE's roof line to the rear glass creates lift at High speeds .The K2 trunk negates this lift.
 

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I have the RKsport hood, which is by far my favorite. Fitment is pretty spot on and does not require hood pins as it's heavier than other CF hoods. Vents are non-functional and solid.

 

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shorttrack
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I have the RKsport hood, which is by far my favorite. Fitment is pretty spot on and does not require hood pins as it's heavier than other CF hoods. Vents are non-functional and solid.

The VIS hood does not require hood pins,I use them just in case.All carbon/fiber glass hoods that have firewall hood hinges would do good to have hood pins just in case the front hood latch point breaks , at that instance you will have vision issues while at speeds and damage to the windshield and hood .The functioning vents are a plus to release under hood temps allowing the engine to perform better.I bought my hood for function ,not into wasting money on looks .
 

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Z cars are what I ran and built during my USMC days in Okinawa Japan .L24 ported head w/ L28 electromotive valves,springs and TI retainers,280 z turbo siamese L 28 block ,Iskenderian rally cam,and lite weight rocker arms,.040'' forged piston 10.5:1 compression.Nissan diesel Maxima stroke crank with forged rods(forgot type) lite weight weight flywheel,race clutch ,full ss headers on back 3'' exhaust, adj oil reg etc,etc .50mm triple Mikuni side drafts and match ported intake manifold,CDI ignition .Those were the days (mid 1980's)Had a G-nose and pantera hatch .Car ran 12.00 at 122mph on motor . 3.2 L displacement
Our team ran a 9.7 1/4 IIRC. That was 10~12 years ago. I have vids somewhere.
Full tube chassis, with basically 260z body panels tack welded on and stock radiator support.
Ford 9" rear end, which we later changed to a quick change rear end
Fiberglass hood and dash
RB26DETT bored out to 2.8L, 2x precision 6262 turbos, custom equal length runner manifold
Skyline GTS-T 5 speed (basically same as z32 transmission with different gearing)
Weighed about 2650 pounds IIRC.

Had to weld on some wheelie bars because it kept standing

My 260z had a half tube chassis with KA24DE-T, with a disco potato turbo (Garrett GT2860RS)
240sx 5 speed, STI R200 LSD diff.




Hood pins are usually used if you don't want to bother with trying to install the latch catch.

Plus hood pins are lighter than the stock latch equipment.
 

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shorttrack
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Our team ran a 9.7 1/4 IIRC. That was 10~12 years ago. I have vids somewhere.
Full tube chassis, with basically 260z body panels tack welded on and stock radiator support.
Ford 9" rear end, which we later changed to a quick change rear end
Fiberglass hood and dash
RB26DETT bored out to 2.8L, 2x precision 6262 turbos, custom equal length runner manifold
Skyline GTS-T 5 speed (basically same as z32 transmission with different gearing)
Weighed about 2650 pounds IIRC.

Had to weld on some wheelie bars because it kept standing

My 260z had a half tube chassis with KA24DE-T, with a disco potato turbo (Garrett GT2860RS)
240sx 5 speed, STI R200 LSD diff.




Hood pins are usually used if you don't want to bother with trying to install the latch catch.

Plus hood pins are lighter than the stock latch equipment.
Wow, nice!! Mine was factory uni body with stitch tig welded up over spot welds and a 6 point moly cage.OLD school low budget .Skylines were just coming out with the turbo skyline in 85' If I remember correctly,rear wheel drive only.My motor was N/A and never dyno'ed,tuned by reading the plugs and then proper jetting. We ran Dunlap road race rain tires(forgot the size but very wide as hell)Used a 280zx LSD rear diff assy as it was stronger .Best time in my life was spent in Japan during the height of street racing.My car was called a Fairlady Z in Japan.
 

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shorttrack
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It sucks growing old and leaving behind the fun you had . Before building my Gen Coupe I built a Monster ''J'' Bridge ported 13b Mazda rotary engine complete .It is sitting on the engine stand in my shop .I'm just in the wrong area to even think about putting it on the streets with all the noise ordinance here in Houston .It has the potential to be a low 9 second 1/4 rocket with a little N2O and a light weight chassis . I had 1 in a Toyota Carina I built and brought back from Okinawa ,in the mid 90's on all motor I got it to run 10.67 on slicks and 10.87 on Mccreary soft compound tread tires.Pump gas only .Kicked a lot asses on the streets of NC Cherry Point area from 1986 till 1997 with that car .Then I got into Crotch rockets (motorcycle drag racing).Have a street grudge Hayabusa that run 8.88 at 154 mph in street trim (loose term).But the wifey and daughters give me crap about going to the drag strip with it so I have not tracked the damn Busa in about 3 years.Planning to go through the busa soon and start back at the drag strip next year .
 

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Wow, mine was factory uni body with tig welded up over spot welds and a 6 point moly cage.OLD school low budget .Skylines were just coming out with the turbo skyline in 85' If I remember correctly,rear wheel drive only.My motor was N/A and never dyno'ed,tuned by reading the plugs and then proper jetting. We ran Dunlap road race rain tires(forgot the size but very wide as hell)Used a 280zx LSD rear diff assy as it was stronger .Best time in my life was spent in Japan during the height of street racing.
Used a spot welder to "seam weld" mine.
Things were called rolling coffins with anything over 400 whp, even with additional welding. Thing would chassis flex like no one's business, unless you had a rollcage.
LSD? IIRC S30/S31 cars didn't come with an LSD. Yours might have been adapted from a 240sx or a subaru before you getting a hold of it.
Before 2000 nissan and subaru used the same company to make a lot of the parts (fuji heavy industries), so a lot of the parts where interchangeable, except for some minor detials

So a N42 head with an N47 block?

A P90 block would have been stronger and better suited for stroking.
I had thought about stroking a while ago, but I couldn't justify the $1k~$3k that people were trying to sell just the crank for, plus that fact that additional machining needed to be done on the crank, because most of them were from nissan diesel forklifts.

The KA I had, I wanted to destroke it, so I could run more boost and have a higher redline. Couldn't justify doing too much work on a junk engine that I basically got for free.
Ironically enough the KA made the same power stock but lighter than the L28. I had a, if I had to guess, a 40/60 weight distribution. Made for a fun aurox car.
 

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shorttrack
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The Rear diff assy was purchased from a race shop known as RS Okinawa Speed shop ,Not sure of the LSD unit name, the gears was also different at being 3.90:1 set vs OEM 3.70:1 ,This is the very shop I got my block,intake and most everything else that I used for the build.I had no children so my car was my baby and I spoiled it back then.My valve train came from State side ,was the only parts used that was not from Japan because the valve train assy was very expensive coming from japan .Match ported and unshrouded valves E3100 head with 1.38 exhaust seats and valves plus 1.73 intake seats and valves ,block was a improved turbo block #1010-p9080
 
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