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I would try to move the subframe forward. It is a better and cheaper solution. The adjustable arms can only even out the arms that are off because of the subframe alignment not being correct to the frame.

But they are not that expensive and easily installed yourself.
I understand that but I don't have the resources to do that on my own. I suppose I would need to support the engine with a cherry picker in order to remove the load off the subframe itself and only then attempt to shift it further. I don't really see myself doing it in my garage. It would be a lot easier to do that in a shop environment/lift. Even if I find a shop to do that, I would have to pay anyways without much of assurance in terms of it really helping with the pull. Having that said, I might as well just get the arms then... Right? I have yet to see someone on here trying to shift the subframe with some sort of confirmation if the procedure really helped or not.

What's weird is even though I am basically forcing the car to go straight - there's no abnormal tire wear...
 

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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
I did it in the driveway on my other car. You need to take the load off the wheels. Then take out the two side bolts, loosen the 4 subframe mounting bolts. Then pry the subframe forward. It should move easily.

The only thing I'm not sure of is the two side bolts, do they hold anything else? But I don't think they do.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
I'm thinking too that first you would have to take the transmission support piece off to see if the subframe moves forward. If it does then the support piece would need the holes slotted.

The the trans should pull out of the drive shaft coupling too a bit so beware on any limitations there.
 

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I know, they are like $130 or so, but really it's not about that. I'm just sick and tired of fixing factory failures on this car. I'm still having a problem with squeaking that's comes from the rear glass area everytime i get out of my driveway at an angle. It sounds like the window is about to crack...

Sent from my ZTE A2017U using Tapatalk
 

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That's IF it's even possible to shift the subframe. This hasn't been done or confirmed by anyone yet as far as I know.

Sent from my ZTE A2017U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #29
The dealer cost on the trans cross member is around $250 but I also found it for $51 plus shipping. :) eBay has them for $100 used make an offer. And it looks like the trans mounting bushing comes with it.
 

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The dealer cost on the trans cross member is around $250 but I also found it for $51 plus shipping. :) eBay has them for $100 used make an offer. And it looks like the trans mounting bushing comes with it.
You gonna do it?

Sent from my ZTE A2017U using Tapatalk
 

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I would try to move the subframe forward. It is a better and cheaper solution. The adjustable arms can only even out the arms that are off because of the subframe alignment not being correct to the frame.

But they are not that expensive and easily installed yourself.
a DIY would help. I asked a couple of shops around and they wouldn't even talk to me... All of them try to sell me the service but when I mention subframe adjustment - their enthusiasm disappears, all they want is money.

At any rate, I need an alignment soon because the inner side of front tires is almost gone (seems like the toe is way off) while the rest of the tire is like new; probably going to flip them and get an alignment as as.
 

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Cone Killa
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Somewhat related: I am running close to 8 degrees of caster and while the wheel self centers pretty well, I feel like turn-in has suffered. The car doesn't seem as eager to dart when I turn the wheel. I've read that lower caster can help this. What do you guys think? Maybe the poor turn in has always been there and is inherent with these cars lol, can't remember.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
More castor requires more effort when turning.

As far as moving the subframe you would have to modify the transmission mount so it can move forward.
 

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I was just going to purchase the set and it seems like they are out of stock everywhere. There's an alternative available by GodSpeed? I don't think I want any eBay branded parts on my car.
 

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Discussion Starter #36

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1 R 1337!
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Somewhat related: I am running close to 8 degrees of caster and while the wheel self centers pretty well, I feel like turn-in has suffered. The car doesn't seem as eager to dart when I turn the wheel. I've read that lower caster can help this. What do you guys think? Maybe the poor turn in has always been there and is inherent with these cars lol, can't remember.
caster will load the steering wheel back to center; to get a snappy turn in you need to tune the front toe actually!
stock its toe-IN like 0.14deg (1/8") each side. am now at 0 toe and it's already snappier! love it

Mike Kojima of MotoIQ suggests 0 to 1/16" toe in for DD and actually to toe out 1/8" to 1/4" for tracking or autocross (which is the same amount but OPPOSITE to the factory specs)

but be warned, this will make the steering more sensitive, and toe-out will consume the tyres more. As with many other RWD cars; it comes with toe-in from the factory as a safety measure (a long with the understeer).
 

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Since the thread got bumped, here's my $0.02. I still have not purchased the arms simply because ISR is not releasing them... they are still sold out everywhere and the only other option is to go with godspeed ebay bs... which I really don't wanna do but those are $100 shipped. Not that I am such a huge fan of ISR, but I feel better about those over GS....

Nothing's changed every since my last post... the car is still pulling to the left while the steering wheel is straight. I had to flip front tires because the inner side was basically shot while the rest is just fine. This will get me going for a while but I need to get it done soon.

Does anyone have any experience with GodSpeed arms? It seems to be the only option for me and I don't want to buy new tires without arms because I will go through them relatively quick again and I am getting tired of it.
 
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