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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Looked easier than it was.

These are the steps I followed
1. removed the cap and used an old vacuum tester to drain the brake fluid from the reservoir (most of it)
2. put an old towel under the master cylinder to (hopefully) catch any brake fluid that spilled, dripped, leaked (bad for the paint, rubber, etc.)
3. loosen the clamp on the black rubber hose attached on the left rear of the reservoir that goes somewhere?
4. remove the wires for the low level alarm (?) from the clip on the front of the reservoir and unplugged it from the sensor on the right side of the reservoir
5. loosened and then removed the brake lines on the right side of the mastercylinder (12 MM).
6. Removed the two nuts/washers that hold the master cylinder on the vacuum booster (easy to reach with a socked/extension)
7. Removed that screw/pin that helps hold the reservoir on the master cylinder (no idea why they felt that was needed??)
8. master cylinder twisted sideways and came right up out of there.
9. fought with the reservoir for a good while trying to pull it off the master cylinder. I was on the verge of heading out to try and buy a new reservoir when I realized the table (outside work bench/table I made last year) legs and braces could be used to wedge the master cylinder behind them while bracing my feet against the legs and my head against the top of the table and after some furious pulling/twisting the reservoir finally popped off the master cylinder.
10. Had a heck of a time getting the reservoir on the new master cylinder. Got it part way by placing the master cylinder on the bench and leaning over it to push forcefully downwards trying to get the reservoir to seat in the master cylinder. Finally went to the tool box for the big rubber mallet and pounded the master cylinder (metal) onto the reservoir (plastic) while holding the reservoir in my left hand.
11. put that screw/pin back in place
12. Only issue bolting the new master cylinder to the vacuum booster was dropping one washer down into that dark hole of small parts loss. Unsuccessfully attempted to snag it what a magnet on a telescoping wand but finally just went to the cabinet for a new washer.
13. easy to get that black hose/clamp back on the left side rear of the reservoir
14. easy to get those two brake lines back on the master cylinder
15. filled it up, put the cap on it
16. plugged the level sensor back in and put the wires back in the little hook on the front of the master cylinder

I took the old master cylinder apart and found some small pieces of black rubber of varying sizes on the piston/springs as I examined it and then found more on my left hand where I'd been holding the piston while looking at the seals on the pistons (not really o-rings like I've seen on other master cylinders). Some degradation/integrity loss but no big splits/tears seen.

Now to bleed the brake system to get the air out and get the old fluid out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Well, tried bleeding the brakes today.

I have a scanner (Autel MP808) that seems to be able to read/diagnose issues. However, it will not to the pressure bleed sequence/work. It shows the option on the screen but says it can't connect to the HCU.

I tried "air" bleeding the brakes as I would most other vehicles and while the brake pedal doesn't just fall to the floor like it did before it isn't stopping correctly and the pedal will, eventually, go to the floor. First time you press it the pedal will go to the floor, let up, pump the pedal and it will get harder to press and begin stopping the car but it's not "right."

Anyone use/recommend a scan tool that will run through the pressure bleeding procedure to get the air out/through the anti lock brake control box so it can be pressure bled out of the system?

I know I'm getting new brake fluid through to the calipers from the master cylinder as the color change from slightly amber to clear was easily seen.

Thanks for any ideas on the scan tool.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Okay, youtube search (the shop manuals are in the trunk/car in the garage) and see a video showing a Bembo caliper with the locations of BOTH bleeder valves on the calipers.

Just when I thought how cool it was someone was making it easy to bleed a caliper I find out - Nope.

Supposed to rain all day. I'll wait till tomorrow to back it out and jack up the back (hope to be able turn the front wheels enough to reach/see the bleeder valves) and take the wheels off (never had the wheels off it before. Like I said, 72,000 trouble free miles prior to the sun roof and the master cylinder.

Edited to add - left the caps/covers off the outside bleeder valve to clean up the rubber and treat it with some of the Gummiflage stuff. Seemed to do wonders for softening up the gasket around the sun roof a month or so back.
 

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You should open the outside bleeder screw and start the bleeding there. Then the inside screw. The Brembos gravity bleed fine but it takes a while.

if you are doing a complete fluid flush then first open the outside screw, then pry the pads apart to force the pistons in and push out the old fluid.

Font Parallel Circle Line art Diagram
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Okay, the outside bleeders/chamber has been bled so good so much that the new clear Dot 3 fluid came through a ways back.

I just checked, I believe I can get to the front inside valves by turning the wheels one way, they the other and lying down beside the car to reach them. Will try it tomorrow afternoon if the ground dries up enough. Then I may have to take the back wheels off, we'll see.

I do have a little bit of fluid left of the 1.5 qts I started off with.:)

Got an auto parts store about 2 miles down the road if I need more (or may have more on the shelf behind the IROC. Need to remember to look and see if there is a bottle over there.

After the inspection and some getting to know the car again I've got the hoses/thermostat and two gallons of antifreeze to drain and replace with new stuff.

In a few weeks I'll finally get around to draining/replacing the rear end oil and transmission fluid. Looks to be quite a bit easier than the 435iX, but it always seems easier till you get into it.
 

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I need to do my rear end oil. Got over 50k miles on it. And speaking of thermostats...

I'm on my 4th one. OE ran at 180F-185F, 2nd and 3rd were current Hyundai parts, they ran at 183F-187F. 4th was a ATC brand and it's at the 180F-183F range.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I didn't realize anything ran that "cold" anymore. I remember how surprised I was to see the new Jeep Cherokee (2000) ran and 210 F. I asked the salesman about it and he told me all of them were being run that way as it reduced emissions. Never seemed to be an issue as it was running like a top when we sold it at 135,000 miles.

So many cars these days (even the cars that cost more money like the Coupe and the BMW 435iX) don't have a full set of gauges and don't always have numbers you can read. Sometimes it just a "good" range.
 

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I didn't realize anything ran that "cold" anymore. I remember how surprised I was to see the new Jeep Cherokee (2000) ran and 210 F. I asked the salesman about it and he told me all of them were being run that way as it reduced emissions. Never seemed to be an issue as it was running like a top when we sold it at 135,000 miles.

So many cars these days (even the cars that cost more money like the Coupe and the BMW 435iX) don't have a full set of gauges and don't always have numbers you can read. Sometimes it just a "good" range.
It's a Hyundai thing. My Accent I put in a 190F tstat vs the OE 180F as it can't hardly put out heat at 180F when it's below 0F. The 190F works great.

Low speed fans come on at 203F.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Success! Ran the back tires up on a set of (3 high) 2X6 tiered quick ramps I usually use for changing oil/filter. Easy to get to the inside bleeder valves. For the front I had my wife turn the steering wheel all the way to the left (to get to the right inside bleeder valve) and then all the way to the right (to get to the left inside bleeder valve.

Worst part was getting the darn little rubber caps off the bleeder valves. Thought I was gonna roll the skin off my thumbs a time or two. Cleaned them up, put the gummiflage on them inside and out (old toothbrush) and let them sit (outside ones since Thursday). Rinsed all the brake fluid off the parts/tires/rims and put the outside caps on the inside bleeder valves. Gummiflaged the inside caps and set them aside to dry. They'll be easy to get on tomorrow.

Ran the car up and down the road and realized (after not driving it for about 10 months) that the brakes/stopping on it are really different than the 435iX.

Need to wash it tomorrow, check the sunroof for leaks (yeah, still haven't done that yet) and change the oil and filter.

Gonna get a 5 gallon jug of 93 octane and a couple bottle of fuel system cleaner to run through it after it gets inspected (soon hopefully, will call tomorrow morning to see when I can get an appt.)

Gonna be good to get it back on the road.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I think it's finally "right."

I've been driving it. Runs good. But a few drives back it broke the back tires loose in a straight acceleration moment through and intersection and it's never done that before. And the ESC Off light came on and would not go out by pressing the button.

Turning the car off and restarting it would make the ESC Off light go out and stay off - until the next time it spun the tires.

I did notice that when the ESC Off light was not on I could press the ESC button and the light would come on, I could press it again and the light would go off (normal operation).

It was breaking the tires loose every little bit and that was not a regular issue.

Did a search here and found some old threads pointing a finger at the brake switch mounted under the dash. Similar symptoms as well. Checked and found them in stock at a local auto parts store. Ran down and picked on up this morning (only about $16.) Came home, worked my tired old stiff self into a contortion to get to that switch and took it out. Only to find the new one was not the correct switch. Got in the other car and took the new/wrong switch and the old switch to the part place. They looked it up, took my old switch to the shelves in the back and came out with another switch. It appeared to the right switch and cost $3 more (figures). Seems Auto Zone's (local to me but a big chain auto parts store) has the parts numbers/description for the switches mixed up. If you tell them manual transmission the part their computer says fits/works if for a two blade switch. The part their computer says is for the automatic transmission is a 5 blade switch that looks like the original in my car.

Came home, fought that thing for over almost two hours between getting it installed, a test drive, adjusting the switch and a second test drive. Now the ESC works differently than it has since it was new (more in a minute).

After I finally got the new switch in (took the pin/clip out of the brake pedal arm to get some room for my fingers and the wrench - 14 MM) I put the pin/clip back on the brake pedal arm and took it for a drive.

At low speed, if you stepped on the gas pedal it would choke up and just creep along till it got up some speed, then take off. Once it was running 30 to 35 mph you could step on the gas and it would just haul butt. Came back to the house to look through the books about adjusting that switch correctly. Nothing. Just the usual "installation is the reverse of removal" line in the manuals. Decided to check the brake lights so I pulled in the garage, shut the door and stepped on the brake pedal and saw no change in the light intensity (gotta have the light switch in the off position to know it's not the park lights). Backed out of the garage and adjusted the nuts on the switch shaft to push the button end of the switch up against the brake pedal arm more and tightened the nuts. Put it back in the garage and now the brake lights were off unless I hit the brake pedal. Opened the garage door up and went for the second test drive.

Ran like a champ. The traction control system worked better than it ever has, since new. Let me explain.

Since new the car has done this:

Steering wheel straight - tires start to spin it chokes the engine down and won't run till gas pedal position seems to match car speed and then it'll wake up and take off again.

Steering wheel turned to the left - it would smoke the back tires across two lanes of traffic jumping out onto a 4 lane to cross to the other side (did that twice over the years).

Steering wheel turned to the right - if it starts to spin traction control would kick in and stop the wheel spin with seemingly no loss in power or acceleration.

After installing the new switch -

It acts like the steering wheel turned to the right no matter whether your accelerating straight forward, to the left or to the right. You can feel the back end just start to feel funny in the seat of your pants and then it smooths out and just keeps accelerating. No loss of power when going straight and no. And I'm seeing the ESC light flicker when hitting it hard and that's supposed to be letting you know the system is working to control wheel spin. Not use to seeing that one either (can only remember one time in the 11.5 years since I bought the car.)

It's good to go except for the lean idle bank 1 and bank 2 codes it's been throwing at me. Just filled it up with premium this morning and dumped another bottom of fuel system cleaner in it. Been through a half tank of the old gas mixed with 5 gallons of premium. Hoping the fuel cleaner will take care of the injectors and the premium will raise the octane some more and help me run through the old gas in the tank. Should be good to go here after this tank gets run down.

Happy, happy, happy. For now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well, after a couple short trips around town with zero issues this morning the surge/jerk and tire spin is back. Brought it back to the house and jumped in the other car to get to my doctor's appt.

I'd just pulled in front of the house to part the Coupe so I could get the 435iX out of the carport. When I came back from the appt. my wife let me know the brake lights were on in the Coupe. Just sitting there with the brake lights on (ignition off). The brake pedal doesn't push down (like it does when braking) when the ignition is off. It's sort of locked up, till the car starts. With the engine/ignition off it took a couple foot bumps on the brake pedal to get the brake lights to go out/off. Not sure how the brake switch can be activating the lights when the pedal is all the way to the rear. I tested/checked it in the garage and you have to press the pedal down a bit to get the brake lights to come on. Doesn't seem to be a switch adjustment issue like it was when I first installed the new brake switch. I will, anyway, attempt to adjust the brake switch a little further forward, just to see what that does, or doesn't do for the issue. Spun the back tires more in the last week than I have in the previous 11 years.

When I get it figured out I'll post here in case someone else has a similar issue at some point.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Drove it today and zero issues. Pushed it hard enough that I could feel the back tires trying to spin. Didn't notice the ESC light blinking but I could feel a funny wiggle/squiggle in the seat of my pants when accelerating while turning right or left. The ESC OFF light never came on so it's working correctly, again.

I'll drive it again tomorrow and we'll see. Sure is fun.
 
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