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CMD Install and Tuning

11000 Views 0 Replies 1 Participant Last post by  whatnot
If you need to take your plugs out to check them or clean them or gap them, here is how.

Difficulty: 3/10

Time required: 30 mins the first time, 5-7 mins after that.

Here is a link of acronyms if I go over anything you are not familiar with.

Tools needed:

10mm socket or wrench
Needle nose pliers *optional(can help you get some of the clips)

*Note- Never pull any connection by the wire. Always pull the connector or plug body itself.

It would be wise to do this on a cool (not hot) engine as you are near the engine and could burn your hands.

1. Pull the negative terminal to your battery. This is always a good idea when working on anything under the hood. Make sure your alarm is off and doors unlocked or when you reconnect your alarm will go off right in your ear. I just leave mine hanging like this, making sure it doesn’t touch the positive (which has a cover on it so it isn’t very likely). It is ground and connected to metal, so it can touch metal.

2. Set your CMD (Combustion Management Device) out spread it out over the top of your engine bay so it isn’t a tangles mess and you can work with it. The crank sensor (one with the metal clip) goes towards the firewall and the injectors starting from the throttle plate as blue, green, orange, yellow with the brown one going to the BCS (boost control solenoid).

2a. This is optional, you might want to tuck your brown BCS wire under the sparkplug/engine cover for neatness. It is 4 10mm nuts.

3. To the left of your battery, there is a metal plate with two bolts that goes into the car, this is where your negative battery ground goes to. Take one bolt off and put the CMD’s ground loop in that bolt and re-tighten the bolt.

3a. I placed two hook and loop (Velcro) 90* of each other as seen below. You probably want to clean the area before applying the adhesive. I placed it on the CMD and hold it down there and see where you want it, then peel off the adhesive and put it on your CMD, then ‘sandwich’ the hook and loop shut and peel the other adhesive side off and then push it up against the car. Hold it for a good 30 seconds applying steady pressure against the car to get a good stick on the adhesive. Plug the main connector to the CMD.

4. Take the fuse box off and pull off the 15 amp fuse located here. Put the supplied 2 amp fuse into the top of the tap and a 15 amp fuse into the bottom. The cars mini fuse won’t work here, so you need to go to any auto store to get a regular fuse. Plug the tap into the spot that you pulled the blue 15 amp fuse out of. You can see how I put mine in there under the wire harness and out through the right of the fuse box cover when shut.

5. Next, notice the BCS has a male and female connector. To disconnect this, push down on the brown clip so that the other side goes over that gray clip, you might hear a little snap when this happens. Some of them might be hard to get apart, though you don’t need to pull hard, just constantly after the clip is up and it will slowly come off. Worse case, if it absolutely won’t come off, you can insert a flathead screwdriver in between the clips and twist and that should pry it off.

6. The CMD has a male and female as well, just mate the male of the CMD with the female of the BCS and the female of the CMD with the male of the BCS. Too easy.

7. Next I did the TIPS (throttle inlet pressure sensor) shown here. It has a black clip much like the brown one of the BCS, just push the clip and pull it off, mate males and females again. The TIPS and MAPS (manifold absolute pressure sensor) look the same, but the MAPS is connected to an injector plug and will not reach the TIPS.

8. The TPS (throttle position sensor). There are clips on the side as seen in pic, squeeze them is and pull to the left to disconnect. You may need to unclip the wire harness from the clip below. And again, mate male and female.

9. Next you have 4 injector plugs. Pull the 4 injector plugs off the car, these very similar to the BCS clips. This is probably the most difficult part of the install, I used a needle nose pliers to push the clip and then just a finger to pop it off. Just be careful not to crush the clip, it really doesn’t take much pressure to unclip it and also very little but firm/steady pressure to pop it off. Do this to all four clips then mate the male and female. Again starting with the TB blue, green, orange, yellow. It is really common sense and the only way it will fit.

User socrbob mentioned to me that it would be much easier to adjust using the angle notches that come with your spark plug gap tool. I attempted this, but the angle notch would just bend, that is why I suggested needle nose pliers. But, after getting new plugs and a new gapper, I tried this and it worked great. I would highly recommend attempting the angle notch for adjusting it open or close as you can make much more fine adjustments and it is much easier to use. Just take care that the notch is thin enough to fit around the ground and not touch the electrode as seen below.

Though this was very difficult to take a pic of, I think you get how to use them. Just put he notch around the grounding strap and bend it up or down.

10. Next will be the MAPS, which looks just like the TIPS connector. Push the black clip down and pull the connector off and mate male and female.

11. The crank sensor is the hardest one to see. The first pic is larger to give you a reference as to where and the second is a zoomed in pic. This connector has a metal spring-clip that you push to take off. Mate the male and female.

12. Now zip tie all of the loose wires and make it look as neat as you want it. The most ‘dangerous’ IMO is the TIPS, make sure that wire doesn’t get near the pulleys on the engine and the same with the BCS. Make sure the big bundle isn’t touching the exhaust manifold or turbo or heat shield. You can tuck some of the injector and MAPS wires under the vacuum/booster hoses on the IM.

13. This varies for some as to how to data log. I pulled this part of my car off and ran the wires through the bottom of the feet area and then ran those to a hole I drilled in the console for a USB to go to my PC in the car as the pictures below show.

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