Need a genesis wizard or maybe just some common sense.. I have a 2.0t bk1.. I have been driving my fiancé s car the last 2 months ( she has heated seats and remote start 😅). I know i should have been starting my car and letting it run periodically but I failed at that. So I decide ima go show my car some love and it does not start. The motor turns over really easy, the battery is charged and I'm getting the crank and cam shaft codes. Id say its safe to assume its not timing( i hope) because it was fine when I parked it and had not been moved. Thoughts?.?
Crank/cam shaft sensor or timing issues.
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Same thing happened to me, except mine only sat for a day. It WAS timing. It skipped 14 teeth before I parked it. Threw a cam and crank code so I replaced the sensors. Nothing worked so I took it to a dealer. They told me about the timing issue. This was before I knew about common timing chain issues.
EDIT: I towed it to the dealer. Since I kept starting it and doing stuff while trying to fix/diagnose it, I ended up ruining the motor by having piston/valve contact.
EDIT: I towed it to the dealer. Since I kept starting it and doing stuff while trying to fix/diagnose it, I ended up ruining the motor by having piston/valve contact.
Did it give any sign it was out of time before you parked it ?
So here is kind of how it went:
My wheels were out of balance, so I called my high school to ask if i could borrow their lift and balance machine. Got in car, drove to school. I noticed it was more difficult to drive than normal. It felt kind of weak and also made more pops/bangs than usual. I already had an engine light from an O2 sensor, so I didn't notice any new lights. While I had it on the lift I read the codes and saw it was the cam sensor.
I called my local parts store and they said it would be 3 days. Having no parts, I just removed the sensor and cleaned it up. Best case, I fix it. Worst case, I wait for parts. It then threw both a cam/crank light. Did same thing, cleaned them up. When I finished balancing the wheels, the car wouldn't start. Some fighting with the throttle/playing with sensors later, I got it to start and I limped it home.
I waited until I got the replacement sensors, installed them and the car just wouldn't start. It was cranking but nothing was happening. Finally I gave up and called Hyundai. I loaded it up on a trailer and had it their the next morning. After some odd looks and questions about it (bumperless with front mount and other visual modification), they looked it over for 4 hours and determined the issue.
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ANY ISSUE having to do with timing, engine mileage matters.
at stock power, the chain is rated for 100,000 miles... BUT everybody drives differently, different climates, ect.
Some people have had to have the chain replaced at around 50,000 miles. If it has above 70k miles, then it's highly likely that it's the timing chain.
The bare minimum you would have to do to check if timing is off, is to just throw a timing light on there and check.
at stock power, the chain is rated for 100,000 miles... BUT everybody drives differently, different climates, ect.
Some people have had to have the chain replaced at around 50,000 miles. If it has above 70k miles, then it's highly likely that it's the timing chain.
The bare minimum you would have to do to check if timing is off, is to just throw a timing light on there and check.
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And the cam sensors just are metal sensor so cleaning them does nothing. They are both the same part so swapping them is a good way to see if a sensor really is bad.
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Same thing happened to mine at 78,000 miles.
Car was running great. Put in a new air filter and topped off the fluids. Started her up... and got the check engine light. Checked the air filter housing for leaks and tried to restart.
Engine spun freely... no compression.
Seems the timing chain jumps at start up.
Get the Mitsubishi Evo timing chain instead of the stock one.
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The BK2 2L chain is as good as the EVO chain. Some say the oil you use can make a difference. If it does Mobil 1 was not one of them as I changed mine at 100k or so with slack in it.. Though Mobil 1 will keep the engine looking new inside.
The chain gets slack between the cams and then when loose enough the intake cam skips some teeth.
The chain gets slack between the cams and then when loose enough the intake cam skips some teeth.
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Depends how far out of time it goes. It's an interference engine so if it goes too far the valves will get bent.
Usually further damaged when trying to start the motor with it being out of time after it slips.
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There is a mark on the crank pulley for TDC. When you are there the cams should line up. Might take a couple revolutions. It's easier if the plugs are out and you stick a dowel in the plug hole so you can see the piston reaching TDC.
This slack did not cause any problems but a new chain really improved things.
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Here is the new chain and the cam marks when the crank pulley is at TDC. As you can see they don't naturally line up unless locked down.
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![76760]()
They will not naturally all line up as you need to lock the cams down to get there due to the valve spring pressure. Only an issue when installing a new one. I jammed a screwdriver under the exhaust cam then used the wrench to line up the intake when I put the new chain on.
This slack did not cause any problems but a new chain really improved things.
Here is the new chain and the cam marks when the crank pulley is at TDC. As you can see they don't naturally line up unless locked down.
They will not naturally all line up as you need to lock the cams down to get there due to the valve spring pressure. Only an issue when installing a new one. I jammed a screwdriver under the exhaust cam then used the wrench to line up the intake when I put the new chain on.
From these pics it looks like t
From these pics it looks like the motor is still in the car and you have plenty of room to work.. did you remove the radiator?There is a mark on the crank pulley for TDC. When you are there the cams should line up. Might take a couple revolutions. It's easier if the plugs are out and you stick a dowel in the plug hole so you can see the piston reaching TDC.
This slack did not cause any problems but a new chain really improved things.
![]()
Here is the new chain and the cam marks when the crank pulley is at TDC. As you can see they don't naturally line up unless locked down.
![]()
View attachment 76760
They will not naturally all line up as you need to lock the cams down to get there due to the valve spring pressure. Only an issue when installing a new one. I jammed a screwdriver under the exhaust cam then used the wrench to line up the intake when I put the new chain on.
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18,966 Posts
Yes there is plenty of room. Take out the radiator fan and shroud.
The crank gear for the chain has a spot hollowed in it that when the crank is at TDC it is facing straight down. I didn't take the oil pan off either.
You will not be able to get all the oil out of it. And invariably you will get some gasket materiel down into it. So save the oil you drain out and use that to fill and empty the oil pan after it's all together to flush out any debris.
The crank gear for the chain has a spot hollowed in it that when the crank is at TDC it is facing straight down. I didn't take the oil pan off either.
You will not be able to get all the oil out of it. And invariably you will get some gasket materiel down into it. So save the oil you drain out and use that to fill and empty the oil pan after it's all together to flush out any debris.
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Need to do a compression test to find that out. Probability best to do that first if you think they are damaged.
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If you can still crank it over I would definatly do a comp test. No sense proceeding if the motor is damaged.
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