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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey guys, so I'm trying to install a LWCP and I do not have any air tools or impact guns that will fit between the radiator and the crank pulley bolt to crack the bolt loose.

RRM has a short "install" video in which the instructor says to put the transmission into a high gear (5th or 6th), have someone hold the brakes while the other person breaks the bolt loose in the engine bay.

Video here:
Road Race Motorsports 3 8L Genesis Pulley install - YouTube

Now, being skeptical of this method, I tried it, but noticed even with it in gear and someone holding the brake (as well as the e-brake applied), the crank still moves.

The FSM specifically states NOT to rotate the engine counter clock wise which is the direction required to loosen the bolt. So once we were setup and the breaker bar was moving slightly left (along with the crank), I stopped, thinking this isn't right.

My questions:

1.) Is the crank supposed to move a little even in gear and brakes applied?

2.) Is the small movement eventually going to "bind" and I can break the bolt loose?

I don't want to screw anything up and honestly, I personally don't think the crank should move at all once in gear and with the brakes on. But maybe there is some drive-line slack that i'm unaware of.

Has anyone replaced their crank pulley using this method?
 

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GCMafia
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Y don't u have some one install them? I took mine to a shop and they charged me 60 bucks to install the 3 pulleys set (water, alt, and crank)


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GCMafia
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Hey guys, so I'm trying to install a LWCP and I do not have any air tools or impact guns that will fit between the radiator and the crank pulley bolt to crack the bolt loose.

RRM has a short "install" video in which the instructor says to put the transmission into a high gear (5th or 6th), have someone hold the brakes while the other person breaks the bolt loose in the engine bay.

Video here:
Road Race Motorsports 3 8L Genesis Pulley install - YouTube

Now, being skeptical of this method, I tried it, but noticed even with it in gear and someone holding the brake (as well as the e-brake applied), the crank still moves.

The FSM specifically states NOT to rotate the engine counter clock wise which is the direction required to loosen the bolt. So once we were setup and the breaker bar was moving slightly left (along with the crank), I stopped, thinking this isn't right.

My questions:

1.) Is the crank supposed to move a little even in gear and brakes applied?

2.) Is the small movement eventually going to "bind" and I can break the bolt loose?

I don't want to screw anything up and honestly, I personally don't think the crank should move at all once in gear and with the brakes on. But maybe there is some drive-line slack that i'm unaware of.

Has anyone replaced their crank pulley using this method?
We have sprung clutches + dual mass flywheels... there's easily a few degrees of slack on the driveline. It should bind up... you're not going to spin the engine backwards and hurt anything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
We have sprung clutches + dual mass flywheels... there's easily a few degrees of slack on the driveline. It should bind up... you're not going to spin the engine backwards and hurt anything.
Well that certainly makes sense.

Thanks for the insight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
*thumbs up* Good luck, I'll be doing my crank pulley this week too :)
Thanks. I'm not looking forward to loosening a bolt that's torqued to 220 ft. lbs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
You can remove the fan for a couple more inches of space as well. Just be carefully not to damage the rad.

Good luck!

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There's plenty of room for the breaker bar with the fan in place.

However, there is a small sensor on an "L" bracket held with a 10mm bolt at the top of the timing chain cover that should likely be unbolted and set aside.

Otherwise, if you're using air tools, the DIY instructs removing the radiator fan for tool clearance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
DONE.

Took me 15min. from start to finish during my lunch break in the parking lot at work.

I had it in 6th gear, e-brake pulled with the hulkness to ensure a good hold on the rear wheels.

It took a few he-man pulls since the clutch/flywheel was absorbing a lot of the force exerted from the breaker bar but it finally broke loose after a few minutes of tugging.

Tilted the spring tensionser with a 19mm socket, loosened the belt off the idler pulley, and swapped the crank pulley.

To tighten the crank bolt I did have a friend in the driver seat to stand on the breaks 'cause as I was tightening the bolt, the car lurched forward. It helps locking the front wheels too I guess. Anyhow, after torquing to 215 ft lbs, I slipped the belt back on and BAM, done-skees.

Probably the "simplest" and quickest engine mod I've ever done. lol. I won't say "easiest" 'cause some people do have a lot of trouble with that crank bolt but if you have the right breaker bar, a regular 6 point 22mm socket (not enough room for deep sockets), and aren't a girly man, this is a VERY affordable, simple installation mod every V6 owner should do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
But...but....Harmonic balancing! Lol jk. (But forreals). I'm about to put mine back on after my last dealer visit :p

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There was an article posted somewhere around here about harmonic balancing and crank pulleys.

It stated that the reason why OEM pulleys have harmonic balancing is to balance ITSELF with the crank. OEM pulleys are usually made with a cheap, heavy material like cast iron or steel. Hanging a 4-5 lbs object off the perfectly balanced crank will cause the crank pulley to wobble and exert stress on the crankshaft at certain rpms. So they compensate by dampening these forces by turning it into a harmonic balancer.

Lightweight CNC 6061 T6 aluminum does not have these issues. Therefore it does not require dampening. I'll see if I can find the article and post the link here.


Anyways, what happened at your last dealer visit that is prompting you to change it? I hope they didn't say it "automatically" voids your motor warranty because that's a load of crap and very illegal. If your TB or MAF or Injector or O2 sensor for instance malfunctioned, there is NO way they can state it was due to a LWCP. It's a very cheap attempt at getting out of warranty work, which owners are legally protected by the Magnuson-Moss Act in case you're not familiar with it.
 

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Logan
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I haven't seen that, I'll look around and try and find it.

I took it off because of a rattle when I started car (see thread 'weird noise on startup' for more about that). Just didn't want anymore complications about getting repairs than necessary. I have to swap my ecu any time I take it in for anything (oil change) because they have updated stuff without telling me and overwritten my tune before.

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Logan
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And I have discussed my mods with them and they are aware of most of them. They prefer me not having any, but said they would warranty things that were not directly related/connected to my mods. I don't think they will ever deny me warranty work though after all the time I spent discussing this with them though.

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I'd rather do it myself
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You can also use a breaker bar and the starter. Make sure you are aware of the direction the motor spins when starting.

Then place the breaker bar so it is against the ground and do a couple quick bumps of the starter. Hard to do with a PB start though.
 
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