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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2013 2.0 base and my diff is a 3.7. I snapped the left side axle at the drag strip the other night. Since I have to replace the axle I'm wanting to go ahead and put a 3.91 or 4.18 rear end in it. From my understanding all the differential carriers are interchangeable. Can anyone confirm this? Also the new 2013 axle will cost me almost $600, or I can get a set of new 2012 axles for about 300. Will the old axles work with the 2013? My plan is to buy a used complete diff carrier and throw in New axles but I want to confirm that all the older stuff will work before I start placing orders. Thanks ahead for all help.
 

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For the 2013 model year the axles changed from a spline type to a bolt up type, so while the guts of the diff are compatible between MYs the housing and axles are not. You have three options:

1. Buy a 2013+ A/T pumpkin and a new axle, ideally you'd want a 3.8 track A/T so you'd also get an LSD.
2. Buy a 2012 pumpkin with the desired specs and matching axles and replace your current diff and axles entirely.
3. Keep your current pumpkin and buy any diff with the final drive you want and swap the final drive gear into your pumpkin and replace your damaged axle, you could also do a swap to an LSD at the same time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The diff I was looking at is a 2013 3.8 track. It is 4.18 with an lsd but came out of an automatic so it doesn't have the bolt in style axles, so will the 12 axles fit with it?
 

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All 2013s have bolt up axles regardless of transmission, so no the older axles won't work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The part they bolt to pops out the diff just like the old axles though axles though. Also based on my findings the 3.8 auto axles are one piece. Not sure about any others though
 

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To be clear are you talking about the entire axle assembly, or just the axle bar? Yes the CV end of the axle pops out after you unbolt it but the older axles are still not compatible, and according to The Driveshaft Shop the older axle bars are also not compatible.

The auto axles are not different from the manuals, how would a one piece axle work with our independent rear suspension setup?
 

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My 2013 GT 3.8 AT has slip in cv joints at the differential.
 

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My 2013 GT 3.8 AT has slip in cv joints at the differential No bolts at all
 

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My 2013 GT 3.8 AT has slip in cv joints at the differential No bolts at all
Are you sure? I see you swapped to an LSD, did you do the install yourself?

According to the shop manual for the 2013s there is only one version of the diff and axles and they are bolt up, and I have not heard of anyone encountering a different setup on a 2013+.
 

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Yes I swapped out the whole carrier assembly and there are no bolts on the inner cv joint
 

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Hmm, what model did the swapped diff come from? This is news to me if there are variations, everything I've read including the shop manual doesn't mention any more than one setup.
 

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All 2013s have bolt up axles regardless of transmission, so no the older axles won't work.
Not true. The 13 Auto's use slip in design and 13 Manual's use the bolt on Stubs into the diff. I have confirmed it in person and with a spare diff and axles from a wrecked 13 auto
 

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Hmm, what model did the swapped diff come from? This is news to me if there are variations, everything I've read including the shop manual doesn't mention any more than one setup.
Looking at the rear diff covers, the 13 auto's are labeled as E13 which use the slip in axle design.
E14 (on Diff Cover) 13 A/T LSD
E13 (on Diff Cover) 13 A/T Open
E12 (on Diff Cover) 13 M/T LSD use Stubs
 

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Hmm, what model did the swapped diff come from? This is news to me if there are variations, everything I've read including the shop manual doesn't mention any more than one setup.
The lsd unit came from a 2013 track model AT
 

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13 3.8 Auto Axles

 

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13 3.8 M/T Axles

 

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Not true. The 13 Auto's use slip in design and 13 Manual's use the bolt on Stubs into the diff. I have confirmed it in person and with a spare diff and axles from a wrecked 13 auto
Well ****, all the reading I've done on the different diffs and this is the first I've seen this mentioned.

WTF Hyundai? What's the point of that? It also means the 2013 3.8 shop manual is inaccurate which is awesome, wonder what else is wrong in there.
 

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I have a 2013 2.0 base and my diff is a 3.7. I snapped the left side axle at the drag strip the other night. Since I have to replace the axle I'm wanting to go ahead and put a 3.91 or 4.18 rear end in it. From my understanding all the differential carriers are interchangeable. Can anyone confirm this? Also the new 2013 axle will cost me almost $600, or I can get a set of new 2012 axles for about 300. Will the old axles work with the 2013? My plan is to buy a used complete diff carrier and throw in New axles but I want to confirm that all the older stuff will work before I start placing orders. Thanks ahead for all help.
Can you post a photo of the snap? I'm curious where it snapped exactly.
 

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Not true. The 13 Auto's use slip in design and 13 Manual's use the bolt on Stubs into the diff. I have confirmed it in person and with a spare diff and axles from a wrecked 13 auto
What is everyone's opinion on which is stronger? Splines have been in use for years with plenty of real world results. If the DSS could get a factory bolt on piece, they could examine it and make a recommendation at least.
 

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Well ****, all the reading I've done on the different diffs and this is the first I've seen this mentioned.

WTF Hyundai? What's the point of that? It also means the 2013 3.8 shop manual is inaccurate which is awesome, wonder what else is wrong in there.
Yeah trust me I almost ****ed myself over for buying a spare diff haha.

I'm really wondering what may be inaccurate once the motor build gets completed and finished.
 
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