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2013 3.8 Track White Pearl
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So we have a sizable thread going over in the 2013 3.8 section on catch cans for our cars, and it seems Hyundai has made it very tricky to install either one can for the PCV side or dual cans for both sides of the engine due to amount of hardware under our hoods. The following is my DIY to install a dual can setup.

I went with the split DC3 dual can setup from Saikou Michi, this is the company that Snoopy worked closely with to develop specialized cans for the 2.0t and they make a very high quality product. They can also sell you everything you need including hose kits and drain line kits both of which come with all of the clamps you will need.


Here's where I tell you I'm not responsible if you try this yourself and it ends in tears. If you read this and you're still not sure what to do or have doubts, consult a professional.

Catch can setup:

2 Saikou Michi S1 catch cans
2 drain line kits
High pressure 1/2" OD braided hose: ~10ft
High pressure 3/8" OD braided hose: ~3ft

Tools/supplies you will need are:

Ramps or jack stands
Screwdrivers, primarily a #2 Philips for removing the bumper
Standard/metric socket set with some extension bars (6" and 9")
Standard wrench set
Pair of pliers
Drill and a 5/32 drill bit strong enough for metal
#12 x 3/4" hex head metal screws: Qty 6
M6-1.00 x16 bolts: Qty 2
M6-1.00 nylon insert lock nuts: Qty 1
6mm split lock washers: Qty 2
1.25In x 9In Light-Capacity Strap Tie: Qty 1
Sharp knife or razor knife to cut the hose

I'll start with the prep work.

1. First thing is to put the front of the car up on ramps or jack stands, you will need to be under the front of the car to complete this install.

2. Disconnect the negative battery terminal since you will potentially need to disconnect some wiring harnesses (if you have fog lights, etc).

3. Throw your catch can hoses out in the sun to get them hot so the are easier to work with, they are very thick and not terribly flexible.

4. Remove the front bumper, head lights (just to avoid damage during install), the engine cover and the plastic panels under the engine. If you are unsure how to do any of these there a several threads on the forum that can help you. The reason you will need to remove the bumper is because of where you will install the cans, you'll see what I mean later on.




Now you are ready to install the cans.
 

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2013 3.8 Track White Pearl
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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
PCV Side Can Install

For the PCV side you're going to be rerouting the hose in this image:


This install assumes you are using an aftermarket intake and the factory air box and intake has been removed, it may still be possible to mount a can if you have the factory intake, but I seriously doubt it, unlike the vent side the can cannot be mounted behind the bumper due to the windshield washer reservoir. Also, never one to waste a factory mounting point I mounted the can to the empty air box bracket left by installing the Injen SRI and the can itself sits right below the intake pipe against the power steering hoses in the picture below, this did involve making my own mounting bracket, but I'll explain how I did this too.

You can also mount the can directly to the inside of the wheel well by screwing the can bracket to the sheet metal, but I wanted to avoid putting holes in the body work if possible.

To install in this location I made a custom mounting bracket out of a steel strap tie that can be found in the construction department of Lowes or Home Depot, it's 1.25" by 9" and can easily be bent into shape, but it's strong enough to hold the can in place, the best part is it only cost $0.88 so you can buy a couple to experiment with. It looks like this before it's bent:


Here is a link to a schematic of the bracket.

To make the bracket you first need to make sure there are two holes on one end that will allow you to use the air box bracket to mount it to the car, the strap already has some holes but not in the right place. The air box bracket is at a slight angle toward the radiator, but you want the can bracket to start by pointing straight to the front of the car, hold the metal strap against the air box bracket at a straight forward angle and mark where the mounting holes should be, then using an 1/4" drill bit add the necessary holes. Then on the opposite end of the steel strap you'll need to create two more 1/4" holes so the can itself can be mounted to the bracket, follow the same steps above but you want the can to mount straight up and down on the strap.

Next you need to bend the steel strap at an angle so that it both points downward and facing the engine at the same time, you do this approximately 3.5" from the end that will mount to the air box bracket, this will be a 90 degree bend and I did this by clamping the strap in a vise and bending it flat. Once you put this primary bend in the strap hold it in place on the air box bracket with your left hand and look down at it, you'll notice if you were to mount the can to it now the can would be point towards the back of the engine, so now with your right hand about an inch or so below the primary bend twist the strap until the bottom where the can will be mounted faces more towards the engine but not completely, if you have trouble picturing this look at the next few pictures and it will make sense.


And here is the can mounted with the bracket.


Now that you've made the bracket you can attached the can to the bottom of the bracket and connect the drain line to the can, but don't mount the can to the car yet, we move on now to actually installing the hoses and can in the car...

1. First we need to disconnect the current hose from the intake and PCV valve, do this by first detaching this sensor from the surge tank with a 10mm socket, be careful not to drop the bolt! Detaching this will make it easy to move aside and reach the PCV connection later on.


2. Next with a pair of pliers squeeze and slide back the hose clamp for the side of the hose attached to the surge tank, then with your hand gently pull the hose off the nipple, it should come off with little effort but you may need to twist a little.

3. Removing the hose from the PCV valve is a little tougher, it's at a funny angle, the hose clamp is a slightly different design and harder to get your pliers on, there are several wires and wire harnesses in that area that could be damaged if you yank on them, and the hose itself is tougher to get off the nipple, so take your time and be careful. I had to use a small flat head screwdriver to pry the edges of the hose up before it would twist loose.

4. Now that the stock hose is removed attach you replacement hose using hose clamps and tighten them down, 3/8" hose to the PCV valve, 1/2" hose to the surge tank. Do not cut the hoses yet, leave them long as shown below and just leave them sitting to the side out of your way. Reattach the sensor to the surge tank.

A note on routing the 3/8" hose for the PCV valve, because the valve points away from the can the hose has to essentially make a 180 degree turn, but you cannot make a bend in the hose with too tight a radius or you could have flow issues, or you could put a crease in the hose. To run the hose start by pulling the hose from the can mounting location towards the firewall along the strut tower and the battery, then gently run it around the hoses and wires at the back of the engine and then back towards the PCV valve, again be very careful not to crease the hose, I did and will probably have to replace it.

5. Now you can mount the can but you have to run the drain line to the bottom of the car as you go. Do this by standing against the quarter panel at the side of the car facing the engine, hold the can in your right hand above the mounting location and feed the drain line with your left hand. As you look down from the side of the car you should be able to see the oil filter assembly just slightly to your right towards the front of the car, you want to feed the drain line towards the oil filter but tuck the drain line behind the other hoses along the way to keep it as close to the body/frame of the car as possible, it will run very near the headers and one of the pulleys so tucking it behind the other hoses will keep it secure and out of the way. You will then want to set the can down and get under the car to be sure you can reach the bottom of the drain line and pull it through where the oil pan, oil filter and control arm mount intersect.


6. Now using the M6-1.00 bolts mount the can to the air box bracket, these bolts will fit the thread of the bracket so for one hole you just use a bolt and a washer, for the other hole you need to use a bolt, washer and nut to attach it, use a 10mm socket and a 10mm wrench to tighten.


7. Now you can cut the hoses to length and attach them to the can with hose clamps, be sure to leave slack so there are no tight bends and the hose clamps on all connections are nice and tight. The can is now mounted and we can finish the drain line.


8. The drain line on this side, unlike the vent side later on, cannot be mounted to the frame rail in front of the oil pan because of the oil filter, you wouldn't be able to get the filter out with the hose and valve there. So we're going to mount it to the frame where the control arm is, in the picture below you can see I have already drilled a pilot hole.


9. Drill a single pilot hole with your 5/32 drill bit, there's a small flat area below the control arm bolt, that's where you want to mount the drain valve. Once you've drilled the hole use an 8mm socket to attached the drain valve to the frame using one of the #12 x 3/4" hex head metal screws, the drain should be pointing toward the wheel.


10. Measure your drain hose and cut any excess, but leave enough slack so there isn't too sharp of a bend, the hose has to make a 90 degree turn to get into drain valve coming from the can straight above it. Secure the hose to the drain valve using a hose clamp and tighten. Make sure the valve is closed.


This side is now done.
 

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2013 3.8 Track White Pearl
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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Vent Side Can Install

For the crank vent side you're going to be rerouting the hose in this image:


And we're going to mount the can on the frame rail under the driver headlight, behind the bumper (now you know why you took the bumper off:

Thanks to Red Raspberry for supplying this mounting location option.

1. Remove the current hose by squeezing and pulling back the metal hose clamps with your pliers, be gentle removing the hose from the nipple you don't want to force it and crack off the nipple. You can use a small flat head screwdriver to gently lift up the edges of the hose to help break any seal it might have on the nipple.




2. Attach your new hose to both the crank vent and the intake with clamps and tighten them down, do not cut the hose, attach it as one long piece to both sides of the engine, you'll cut it once you connected it to the engine and routed it to where you will mount the can. You can see below I have it connected as one long piece and routed to my mounting location.




3. Time to mount the can bracket to the frame, if there is a wiring harness attached to the frame slide it straight up to remove it from it's plastic bracket so it can be moved out of the way, it slides back on the opposite way. Hold up the bracket to the frame touching the bolts closest tot he engine as shown and mark the two holes with a sharpie.


4. Using your drill and a 5/32 bit, drill two pilot holes where you marked on the frame. Next use a socket wrench with an 8mm socket to attach the bracket to the frame using two of the #12 3/4" metal screws.


5. Reattach the wire harness and now you can mount the can itself, make sure to attach the drain line before mounting the can. On the SM cans you mount the can to the bracket using the bolts supplied, you need a 7/16th socket and a 7/16th wrench to do this.


6. Now it's time to cut and attach the hose, be sure to leave enough slack so that there is not a bend in the hose or too tight a radius curve to get to the can or there will be flow issues. The vent side of the hose attaches to the top of the can and the hose leading back to the intake attaches to the side of the can, attached the hoses with the clamps and tighten them down.



7. Routing and mounting the drain lines on this side is pretty easy, and where we will mount it will make it easy to check every time you do an oil change. On the frame rail right in front of the oil pan is series of gaps in the two pieces of metal that make up the frame, you will mount the valve here by slipping it into that gap and using one screw to attach it to the frame, this way it will clear the plastic panels under the engine and also be right there for oil changes. In the picture below you can see I've already drilled the pilot hole for mounting the bracket.


8. After drilling the pilot hole, slide the valve bracket into the gap in the frame and using only the bottom hole on the bracket attach the drain valve to the frame using the same technique as mounting the can bracket, be sure to use the valve that points in the right direction as shown below (toward the oil pan). Once the valve is mounted run the drain line up and over the hoses that are between the can location and the valve location and trim the hose to length leaving a little slack, then attach it to the valve with a clamp and tighten. As you can see it's convenient to get to the valve and it will clear the plastic cover.



Now this side is done.
 

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2013 3.8 Track White Pearl
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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
After the install of both cans but before you reassemble the car take the following steps:

1. Double check that both drain valves are closed, righty tighty.

2. Clear all of your tools from the engine compartment, under the car and around the car.

3. Reconnect the negative battery terminal and be sure to tighten it.

4. Turn the car on but do not start it, let it sit for a minute, then start it.

5. Listen near all of the hose connections, both on the engine and on the cans, do you hear what sounds like an air leak? If you do, stop the engine and recheck the hose clamp connections. Repeat.

6. If you hear no air leaks you are done! Put the bumper, under engine panels and engine cover back on.

7. After a couple of days of driving, when the engine is cool, double check that everything looks like it's firmly in place and the hose connections to the engine are still solid.

I will post follow ups and results in this post at later dates.
 

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Loving it! Was going to do one myself =p But this'll work
 

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My cans are coming soon in this sexay ass color =p

I probably should have asked but does the can come with those brackets? Or ill probably be searching for these myself
 

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2013 3.8 Track White Pearl
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Discussion Starter #9
looking good!

No issues with the hose sizes I gave?
Nope, but I ran out of day to do the PVC side, I'll let you know if I have any issues. I also have an idea for mounting the can on the PCV side that will require modifying the SM bracket, if it works do you think Mr. Saikou could make a new bracket for us?
 

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Thanks for this! I've been looking to do this soon and it's always great to have some instructions and pics to visualize things.
 

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Great right up
 

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2013 3.8 Track White Pearl
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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks guys, this was a PITA but I'm glad I can share it with you, I am still updating the posts and need to write up the PCV side install (just got it done, it sucks, strap in...), when I think I have it 100% written up I'll let you know and then you can ask questions, etc.
 

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Do Catch Cans need to be removed for the winter or are they ok with the cold temps? Coldest temps in my area would be -20C without windchill.
 

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2013 3.8 Track White Pearl
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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
OK, done for now, I'll tweak as I catch little mistakes in the write up but I think I've covered all of the install.

Closing thoughts: this is a very easy mod made stupid difficult by this car's engine bay and the sheer amount of s**t in there.
 

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^ looll
 

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i need pictures. i guess im a neanderthal
 

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2013 3.8 Track White Pearl
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Discussion Starter #20
Can you not see the pictures or are you asking for more?
 
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