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Obsessed
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If you plan to turbo your 3.8 later, keep the optional breather. You can use it to vent your CCV side later when installing the turbo kit.
 

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I removed my plenum and bottom intake since it had it PnP. To my surprise, since I seafoam or CRC the car about 4-5 times, and I only have 21,546 miles on the car. The valves were full of oil and carbon. I was able to clean 4 sets of the valves to new conditions with a lot of intake cleaner, toothbrush, and towels. I was only able to partially clean two sets of valves since they were open and I was not sure how to move the valves so they will close. Sorry, I did not take pictures because my hands were dirty from the oil/carbon deposit and it was raining. I'm surprised no one has made a DIY on how to clean the valves because its a big issue. I have been running a catch can since roughly 8k or 10k but maybe my catch can is too far. I will be swapping it out to a mishimoto compact catch can to get it closer to the PVC. After I installed everything back I sprayed two full cans of the CRC GDI cleaner since when I was able to spray it directly to the valve it did a great job. I wish I had the tool the dentist use to suck up liquid since I will pool the valves and use the toothbrush to brush off the gunk. Removing the gunk water was an issue so I used shop towels and they did the job. Unfortunately, two sets of valves were not fully cleaned because they were opened, I cleaned the side walls but was concerned all the gunk going into the pistons. I was not sure how to move the valves so the open ones will close. Next Saturday I will spray two more bottles of CRC GDI cleaner since I think its better than seafoam and change my oil to Motul from mobil 1 and move my catch can closer.

Intersting facts: The driver side was a lot worse than the passenger side. Does anyone know the size of the bolts of the bottom intake? I will to swap them for ARP bolts. I will also be swapping out my spark plugs since the one I took out had the same gunk on the tip. I will be going with NGK and a will be getting a canned tune soon from BTR.

After all this the car was so smooth,quiet, and much better acceleration. It was running great and the computer is still learning but I'm not sure what effect the more balanced air flow from the PnP will have the on the engine. I prefer the CRC over seafoam since its foams and heavier in consistency versus seafoam. Plus the CRC does not create that big white smoke show that you see with seafoam but it does clean the gunk like nothing else when I was directly spraying it to the valves. If we are able to clean the valves like I did we should be able to avoid the need for a walnut cleaning but how do I close the open valves?????
 

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(╯°□°)╯︵ ┻━┻
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Discussion Starter #164
The CRC product is definitely more effective and easier to use than Seafoam, how effective it is just spraying it into the intake while the motor is running is hard to say but as you proved it does clean valve deposits. I plan to physically clean my valves and post some details on it when I finally get around to getting my intake manifold ported and balanced, at this point I have around 30,000 miles with the catch cans installed with engine treatments at each 10,000 mile increment so it'll be interesting to see how bad they are.
 

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Put a socket on the crank bolt and turn the motor to move the valves.

Really??? It was that simple? My car is an automatic anything else I need to do? place it in neutral? Ugh!! Well I learned and should be ready for next time.
 

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The CRC product is definitely more effective and easier to use than Seafoam, how effective it is just spraying it into the intake while the motor is running is hard to say but as you proved it does clean valve deposits. I plan to physically clean my valves and post some details on it when I finally get around to getting my intake manifold ported and balanced, at this point I have around 30,000 miles with the catch cans installed with engine treatments at each 10,000 mile increment so it'll be interesting to see how bad they are.
I think to keep them clean it should be every oil change but you get more oil than I do when I drain my catch can. That is the reason I will be moving it to where the battery is. I purchased an optima battery and have room to spare now and a catch can can easily. At first I was using an intake/TB cleaner but since I ran out I started using the CVC one and noticed the huge difference. After I let the car heat soak for about an hour and turn it on, thats when the white smoke shows up but its really thick white smoke versus the seafoam that it starts the fog right away. Thats why I think we should use the CVC GDI cleaner and two bottles. Really get the whole intake parts really wet. I will also using an Motul engine cleaner on the next oil change to remove all the junk that I hope the CVC is taking away. I wonder if they sell a small attachment for a shopvac because if you can soak the area and let it sit and brush it with either a hard toothbrush or some small brush it should be a quick process. It took me longer to collect the liquid collection since I knew all that was going to go directly to the piston.
 

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GenCoupeDXB
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62 Posts
hey guys first of all thanks for the OP for this amazing DIY. i got the universal 300ml baffeled aluminium can with option to add breather.

i did my install a bit different but took this guide as a reference , i mounted my catch can on the strut brace bar and did 1 can setup instead of 2, might be doing the other one later but for now i did one

here are some pics of my setup







and here is the stock pipe leaking oil after i removed it

 

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Discussion Starter #169
Looks good, ideally you want the can below the PCV valve but you are not the first to mount on the strut bar and it should work just fine, plus where you have it has the advantage of not being directly above or next to the exhaust manifolds.

Remember you only need the second vent side can if you track the car or go turbo, I fit neither of those criteria and I have yet to drain any oil from my vent side can so to do it over again I would only do the PCV can.
 

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GenCoupeDXB
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62 Posts
Looks good, ideally you want the can below the PCV valve but you are not the first to mount on the strut bar and it should work just fine, plus where you have it has the advantage of not being directly above or next to the exhaust manifolds.

Remember you only need the second vent side can if you track the car or go turbo, I fit neither of those criteria and I have yet to drain any oil from my vent side can so to do it over again I would only do the PCV can.
i figured its almost at the same level of the pcv and away from all heat sources mainly the exhaust and most important its easily accessible to drain and check ( the can i got has a dip stick in it).

i dont track the car at all so ill take your advice and just stick to my current setup. i will be adding some heat shielding to it though once i do the intake shielding so this should get rid of most of the heat .

quick questin though, should i add the breather or keep it a closed system?? and if i add the breather wont this affect the cars vacuum or pressure inside the engine since the can dosne thave like a one way valve?

big thumbs up for the guide its very detailed and well explained.
 

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NOOB
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167 Posts
Is it okay if my catch can inlet is mounted higher than the PCV valve? I have a good spot for it with some of the old/reused brackets. Kind of in the same area, but higher up as I have more room with my CAI. Or is this one of those things where the inlet MUST to be lower than the source?
 

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I'd rather do it myself
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Is it okay if my catch can inlet is mounted higher than the PCV valve? I have a good spot for it with some of the old/reused brackets. Kind of in the same area, but higher up as I have more room with my CAI. Or is this one of those things where the inlet MUST to be lower than the source?
Gravity is your friend here.
 

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NOOB
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