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2013 3.8 R-Spec
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360 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys got bored today decided to plasti-dip my rims. I'm sure most everyone is familiar with this product by now but here is my DIY on the 2013 wheels.

Tools:
3-5 cans of Plasti-Dip rattle cans
Rim cleaning materials (2-3 rags, rim cleaner/soap & water)
Spray bottle
Pure rubbing alcohol
Small flat head screw driver
Small sharp pocket knife
masking tape
Floor protectant (old bed sheet/plastic liner)
Jack and Stands

Time to complete and level of difficulty
Difficulty: 3 out of 10 (easy with any painting experience)
Time to complete: 4-6 hours

Starting from having the wheels off the first thing you need to do is clean each wheel. Start by knocking off all dust/grime with a soft cloth. follow it up with a good soap and water. I recommend a good dish soap in order to get any built up wax or grease from engine bay/road etc. dry the wheels and add your alcohol to your spray bottle, spray a generous amount over the wheel and wipe away any last bit of junk on the wheels. The alcohol will create a good surface for the plasti-dip to grab onto.

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At this point you wheels will be ready to accept the 1st application. I personally apply a masking tape edge around the tires leaving approximately 1/2-1in from the rim. This will allow you to pull the extra plasti-dip from the rubber creating a clean break and a smooth edge along the wheel.

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In addition to the edge of the wheel I tape off my valve steps since they are the TPMS valve stems...... no reason to risk messing up a $100 valve stem. This is where the small flat head screw driver come in. Be very careful and rip about 2in of tape. start in the middle and wrap as close as you can to the rim. Use the flat head to press the tape flush with the valve stem MAKING SURE to keep the tape FROM TOUCHING the rim.

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Ok your wheels are prepped and ready to spray. Plasti-Dip is very forgiving and does not lay down much like spray paint. You want to spray about 7-8 inches away from you wheels keeping a good even coat through out the process. Your first application should be at 50% transparency. Don't worry about texture or small pits at this point. Plasti-dip lays down pitty and textured but as it cures it flattens and will smooth out. Notice my 1st coat has pits and transparency.

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Coat 1: 50% transparency
Coat 2: 10% transparency
Coat 3: 0% transparency
Coats 4-5: Ass needed to cover

Find a pattern that works for you when applying. my method was to do the outer edge, spraying from rubber to the center in a clockwise direction. next I did each spoke from the left side followed be covering each spoke from the right side going in/out/in on the wheel with my spray pattern. I then sprayed each spoke directly from the top with a out/in spray pattern. I then went around the lip portion of the wheel spraying from center of the wheel towards the rubber, in a counter clockwise motion. Finally I lightly coated the inner portion of the wheels around the lug and cap. Be very carful at this portion. there will be a decent amount of over spray and the paint will settle and spread. Going heavy in the center area will create pooling. Let the wheel set for 30min in between coats. After repeating this spray patter for 3 coast your wheel will be complete and should have a smooth completely cover surface.

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Once your last coat has set for 30 min. Move the wheel out into the sun to set for 2-4 hours. DO NOT ATTEMPT to remove the tape on the valve stem while paint is we. make it the last thing you do before you put the wheel on if you can. When its time take that small pocket knife and CAREFULLY cut along the tape from bottom to top and use the edge of the blade to peel back the tape a life it straight up from the rim. the tape will come off easy and look as if you took you valve stems out to paint the wheels.

Once all your wheels are dried for 2-4 hours they will be safe to put back on you car. Be very careful when putting your lugs on, the dip will be dry but still a little soft. snug them up and park the car for the night at least. Keep your car in a dry place with a decent temp. 50-80 degrees if possible. Once all said and done they will come out like this.

Below are a couple of before and after pics. Hope everyone enjoyed this and look forward to comments. I ordered my exhaust on Friday I will be doing a FULL write up and review on the CNT V3 exhaust for the 3.8 for anyone interested once it comes in.



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2013 3.8 R-Spec
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360 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks man, it ed a fun project. I'll be blacking out the chrome soon I'll post another diy. Have you used pd before?

Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

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8 Posts
Do you guys know how hard plastidip is when dried? Would stone flying from the road easily chip it off on the rims and especially on chrome areas in the bumper? Although I heard plastidip is easy to remove and apply again, it is good to know that I can just set it and forget it, knowing it will stay black and chip free for a long time.
 

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2013 3.8 R-Spec
Joined
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360 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
It is very durable. I had it on my last set for 3 years and never had a scratch. once it cures for 8 hours it will be hard to chipit. Once its on there for a week you can powerwash the s**t out of it and it will hold up. Even if it does chip/tear repair is super easy. Just take a little paint thinner or the least rub the chip/tear area until its smooth with the surface and the re-spray just that area. Its very forgiving!
 

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Thanks man, it ed a fun project. I'll be blacking out the chrome soon I'll post another diy. Have you used pd before?

Sent from AutoGuide.com App
Yeah, but only for emblems. I've always been curious about how well it works on wheels, but it looks pretty damn good in those photos haha. Did you prefer the matte black? And did you consider using glossifier?
 

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2013 3.8 R-Spec
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360 Posts
Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Well I have the satin pearl so I like the contrast of the flat on white.... I have never used the glossifier. But my buddy did and I looks clean. It takes a little thicker layer to get the shine though so probably 4 coats. The thicker the more gloss look it will have. I would do one wheel at a tome though with this make sure it comes out well before having to peel all the wheels lol. Good luck post pics I'm curious.

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2013 3.8 R-Spec
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360 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
well the best place I have found for blk/wht/red is Home Depot or Lowes. none of the car places around here have it. 4-5 can will run you about 30-40. Not a bad trade off compared to about 100 a wheel for PC your wheels.
 

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MrGenesis 2012 2.0TGC BLK
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372 Posts
How did you go about spraying the inside and the rear of the spokes, did you flip the rim over after you finished the front? or did you do it during each coat? or did you jsut srpay throught teh spokes and hope the barrel got even coverage
 

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2013 3.8 R-Spec
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360 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
How did you go about spraying the inside and the rear of the spokes, did you flip the rim over after you finished the front? or did you do it during each coat? or did you just spray through the spokes and hope the barrel got even coverage

I didn’t worry to much about the back of the wheels. I just sprayed the front pretty well and let the inside catch what it could. In all honestly the first time you get the wheels re-balanced anything on the back will be ruined anyway. In order for them to place those sticky weights on the back they will clean them thinner or something that will strip away pretty much anything but the rim its self.... Spraying the back might actually cause the rest of the rim to peel over time. I haven’t done it so im speculating but just spraying to front has worked out great for me and lasted for ever.

Has anyone done this in anything other than flat black. Like dark graphite with metalizer.

I have no experience with the metalizer but PM me and ill send you a link to a website that has all sorts of projects on it...... follow those direction on the site and I’m sure it will do whatever you want it to..... this product is VERY easy to work with and heck if it doesn’t come out right its easy to reverse..... what ever you want to do go for it its gonna be the cheapest screw up possible if it doesn’t work out.
 

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MrGenesis 2012 2.0TGC BLK
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372 Posts
Has anyone done this in anything other than flat black. Like dark graphite with metalizer.
yes there is soemone o nthis forum who did it with the copper metalizer, same gt rims off a 2013, and it looks sick il ltry and find the link tonight if someone cant post it before me

How did you go about spraying the inside and the rear of the spokes, did you flip the rim over after you finished the front? or did you do it during each coat? or did you just spray through the spokes and hope the barrel got even coverage

I didn’t worry to much about the back of the wheels. I just sprayed the front pretty well and let the inside catch what it could. In all honestly the first time you get the wheels re-balanced anything on the back will be ruined anyway. In order for them to place those sticky weights on the back they will clean them thinner or something that will strip away pretty much anything but the rim its self.... Spraying the back might actually cause the rest of the rim to peel over time. I haven’t done it so im speculating but just spraying to front has worked out great for me and lasted for ever.

Has anyone done this in anything other than flat black. Like dark graphite with metalizer.

I have no experience with the metalizer but PM me and ill send you a link to a website that has all sorts of projects on it...... follow those direction on the site and I’m sure it will do whatever you want it to..... this product is VERY easy to work with and heck if it doesn’t come out right its easy to reverse..... what ever you want to do go for it its gonna be the cheapest screw up possible if it doesn’t work out.
true they do use a cleaner to get the stuff off
 

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How did you go about spraying the inside and the rear of the spokes, did you flip the rim over after you finished the front? or did you do it during each coat? or did you just spray through the spokes and hope the barrel got even coverage

I didn’t worry to much about the back of the wheels. I just sprayed the front pretty well and let the inside catch what it could. In all honestly the first time you get the wheels re-balanced anything on the back will be ruined anyway. In order for them to place those sticky weights on the back they will clean them thinner or something that will strip away pretty much anything but the rim its self.... Spraying the back might actually cause the rest of the rim to peel over time. I haven’t done it so im speculating but just spraying to front has worked out great for me and lasted for ever.

Has anyone done this in anything other than flat black. Like dark graphite with metalizer.

I have no experience with the metalizer but PM me and ill send you a link to a website that has all sorts of projects on it...... follow those direction on the site and I’m sure it will do whatever you want it to..... this product is VERY easy to work with and heck if it doesn’t come out right its easy to reverse..... what ever you want to do go for it its gonna be the cheapest screw up possible if it doesn’t work out.
Metalizers give metallic flake look to the p-dip, offered in gold, silver, copper, and new colors are blue, green, violet, and red. The new colors give the wheel an anodized metal look over a flat black base.
 

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Looks unreal! good job man! Is there a good place to get plasti dip for a cheap price?

Depending where you are located in ontario you can get the good cans from either garage16 at 12.99/can or nextmod but they charge almost double. Local canadian tire has them also but they too are overpriced.
 

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Yes that's what im talking about. Would a silver metalizer over that give it a metal flake look.
yes it would... check out Dip Your Car's video to get an idea of what it will look like. they spray silver metalizer over black/gun metal grey and zoom in to see the flake.


The Anthracite color on my 2011 2.0's wheels have 4 coats of Anthracite and 2 coats of glossifier on them. From the video you can see the heavier you spray metalizer the shinier it gets cause metalizers have glossifier mixed with it. Just be sure if you are going to P-Dip you wheels to spray 8 to 12 inches away from it as close to straight on angles to the surface as you can to get a smooth even coat. Too close or too far will texture, and do minimum 5 total coats P-Dip can be peeled off fairly easily even after being on for months but if the Dip is too thin its a bit of a pain to peel. Mineral Spirits are great for removing dip that's too thin or Goo Gone works too
 
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