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Sleeper!
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Discussion Starter #1
OEM Sub Frame Mounts:



New Enthuspec Solid Rear Sub Frame Risers:








Intro: Enthuspec Solid Sub frame Bushings are a must for those BK-chassis owners tracking their car. Eliminating the movement in the rear sub frame dramatically improves response and handling. More importantly, these bushings raise the sub frame up to the chassis to allow proper positioning of suspension arms on lowered cars. Having the suspension arms at a proper angle in relation to the ride height is very important in the suspension dynamics during wheel travel.

Features
o Made of T6061 Aluminum
o Raises subframe 1/2inch
o Eliminates Wheel Hop
o Replaces worn factory rubber bushings
o Helps with Roll Center
o Helps with Anti-Squat
o No need to cut factory bolts or modify studs
o Notched front bushings that clear suspenion arm bracket
o CNC precise Tight fit!
Made in the USA!


Installation: (WARNING: I highly do NOT recommend doing this for those that are not very mechanical savvy, or do not have the option/ability to keep the vehicle down in case you run into any problems along the way or do not have the right tools for this job.)

Tools needed:
3/8 or 1/2 socket wrench
19mm deep socket
19mm open end wrench
17mm socket
17mm open end wrench
14mm socket
12mm socket
32mm wheel hub socket
Needle Nose Pliers
Phillips
Long Flat Head Screwdriver
Hammer
Wood Block/s
Reciprocating saw
Metal cutting blades for the Saw
Air Compressor will speed everything up but not necessary



Here will be a fully step by step installation process that will be breaking everything down for what is needed to install the new Solid Rear Sub Frame Risers from Enthuspec.


1.) Will need to jack up the vehicle. (Just the rear make's the process a lot easier)

2.) Will need to remove the rear tires from the vehicle.

3.) To gain access to the Sub frame Bushings you will need to disconnect the driveshaft from the Diff. (Recommend using a bungee/hanger to hold the driveshaft once disconnected) 19mm Socket and 19mm Open end wrench




4.)
You will need to remove the cotter pin from each spindle nut. (Driver and passenger rear) Needle nose pliers and Hammer.

5.) Once cotter pins have been removed, need to remove the spindle nuts. (Driver and passenger rear) 32mm socket


6.) You will need to remove the rear brake calipers and rotors from the wheel hub assembly. (I placed them on upside down on buckets out of the way so I didn’t have to remove the brake lines). 17mm socket for the (2)brake caliper bolts on each side. 12mm socket for brake line bolt. Phillips to remove the rotor set screws.




7.) Next you will want to remove all connections on the wheel hub assemblies. That includes the Rear Struts/Coilovers, Upper Traction Rod, Lower Traction Rod, Rear Toe Rod, and Rear Upper Control Arm. (This will allow you to separate the wheel hub assembly from the rear sub frame completely, and set the wheel hub assembly to the side.) …. While conducting this step you will notice a 12mm bolt that holds the brake cable to the frame. You will need to remove the 12mm bolt to allow enough room and play to move the wheel hub assembly. 17mm socket and 17mm open end wrench



8.) Once the above has been completed, you have 2 options.
Option 1: Keep the diff and axles connected to the sub frame, that way when you go to lower the sub frame you can use your jack to support majority of the weight between the diff and frame.

Option 2: Disconnect the diff and axles together away from the sub frame completely.

To do so: You will want to place the Jack under the rear diff(actually holding the diff) and completely remove the (1) rear bolt, and then the (2) Front bolts. (to remove the rear diff bolt, you will need to remove the (4) bolts on the rear sway bar to drop it low enough to access the (1) rear diff bolt.)

(You will want to use a Jack to lower the diff once you get to that point. Highly recommend having another person handy to guide the diff down with the jack, and the other to lower the diff with the jack) 19mm socket

I chose Option 2 because I am waiting on my new rear axles to be made and make it easier for me to really control the sub frame with the diff and axles out of the way.

9.) Now you should only have 2 nuts, and 2 bolts holding the frame, and also 4 smaller bolts (2 on each side) that are holding the brackets onto the sub frame and chassis. You will need to remove all of these but also make sure to have a jack and wood block holding the sub frame while doing so. (NOTE: I was able to remove all of the nuts and bolts and the sub frame wouldn’t budge. So I used the back of the hammer (claw) on the rear portion of the sub frame against the chassis and slowly pried on it and was able to get the sub frame separated away from the chassis. 14mm and 19mm sockets


10.) Now that you have the rear sub frame out, there are multiple ways of removing the OEM Sub frame Bushings.

Option 1: If you have a press or want to take it to a shop to have them press them out, this option is the easiest.

Option 2: You can use a butane torch to melt the rubber completely which will remove the metal inner rectangular bushing, but will still need to remove the outer circular sleeve that the mounts are incased in.

Option 3: You can use a reciprocating saw like I did, and cut/burn the rubber to separate the inner rectangular bushing. Once those have been removed, you can carefully cut the sleeves (DO NOT CUT THE FRAME) enough to use a flat head screwdriver and hammer to separate the sleeve from the frame, and continue hammering to move the sleeve from the frame.




Before being cut:








After being cut:









11.) Once you have removed all 4 OEM Sub Frame Bushings and have your new Bushings on hand, I used a little bit of lithium grease around the new Bushings and used a wood block with a hammer to set the new bushings in. Once the new Bushings have been installed, Install is completely the same going backwards. Make sure when you go to install the sub frame back onto the car that you line up and get the furthest rear sub frame risers in place before moving onto the front ones. This is to prevent any installation issues or any binding.

If you currently have rear collar kits installed, this will completely eliminate the need for them in the rear.








One last note, if you are slammed or plan on it, you will either need to cut the frame for the Rear Upper Control Arm(RUCA) to prevent from bottoming out or slamming the RUCA into the frame, or purchase an aftermarket RUCA that will allow you the amount of travel required and prevents you from having to cut the frame for clearance.

Review:

Will post review once I have the Gen back up and am able to test them




Where to Purchase:

Vendor - GenRacer

The kit includes 4 pieces: 4 aluminum sub frame riser bushings only.
 

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Correct me if I'm wrong, but shouldn't those be epoxied into the subframe? NOT greased?
 

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Sleeper!
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Discussion Starter #4
How did this turn out for you in regards to the upgrade?
They turned out great. Expect a decent amount of NVH from them but really helped keeping everything together with pretty much no play at all.
 

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Sleeper!
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Discussion Starter #5
Correct me if I'm wrong, but shouldn't those be epoxied into the subframe? NOT greased?
I greased them in because they are an absolute tight fit. Obviously all the grease was pressed out once I got them in and cleaned it up afterword's but they are in the subframe for the long haul and makes it very difficult to try and remove the subframe later on if I need to for any reason.
 

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I greased them in because they are an absolute tight fit. Obviously all the grease was pressed out once I got them in and cleaned it up afterword's but they are in the subframe for the long haul and makes it very difficult to try and remove the subframe later on if I need to for any reason.
I see your logic and raise you nothing. It likely wouldn't make a bit of difference in the rigidity of the rear end (outside of nearly immeasurable lateral play). How does it drive?
 

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Good thread Thought about picking up a set. I liked how you offered up different options during the install. Very smart and helpful. I thought it was interesting in the Ark thread that Formula Drift doesn't allow these. No modifications to the subframe. I know all the guys I know who have installed these have raved about the difference.
 

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Sleeper!
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Discussion Starter #8
I see your logic and raise you nothing. It likely wouldn't make a bit of difference in the rigidity of the rear end (outside of nearly immeasurable lateral play). How does it drive?
It drives absolutely solid and sticks. If your worried about NVH then these may not be for you. Here is a video I did a little while ago but I will let you be the judge.


Good thread Thought about picking up a set. I liked how you offered up different options during the install. Very smart and helpful. I thought it was interesting in the Ark thread that Formula Drift doesn't allow these. No modifications to the subframe. I know all the guys I know who have installed these have raved about the difference.
Appreciate it. Yeah it is odd that they can't use them in the ARK Drift Gen but they are absolutely amazing.
 

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NVH would be an issue here on some of the older, paved country roads around here. I still need to maintain drivability. As it stands, an unexpected bump with my current setup will send you through the roof and make you feel like the car is going to shatter haha.
 
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