Hyundai Genesis Forum banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
I <3 Boobs!
Joined
·
17,486 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
In addition to my GarageLine Springs write up, I'm going to give everyone a write up for the R-spec rear sway bar (28mm). Its full of awesome IMHO.

It can be found here: 2009-13 HYUNDAI GENESIS COUPE REAR SWAY BAR 28MM - Welcome to GarageLine

I will also add to not switch endlinks on concrete or gravel, etc. Or you will end up with a scratched up bar like me :(

Also some of these instructions will be from reference from the sheet that was provided by GarageLine. I will mark these with an asterisk(*).

Some of you may notice that a lot of this is the same as my other write up. Well, that is because I copied and pasted. Its my work, so I'll do with it what I want :p

Lets get this done.

We're obviously going to start off with jacking up with car and placing your car on jack stands (or whatever your lifting preference is).
Remove your wheels and place them off to the side.
If you're replacing the rear sway bar, this is the best time to do so :)

Continue by either completely taking off the sway bar (which I did since I was changing it out) or disconnect the sway bar links for the control arm.

You can disconnect the links with a 17mm wrench and a 17mm socket.
Driver side:

Passenger side:


Or if you're completely removing the sway bar, you can remove the links for the control arm, just like above, and then remove the 2 mounting brackets with a 14mm socket (2 bolts for each bracket).
Driver side:



Passenger side:




Now that we have the sway bar either disconnected or off, we can now begin to switch off the links from the old sway bar, to the new bar.
(I'm sorry that I don't have pictures of the linkage removal and placement.)









Notice that there are two holes in the GarageLine sway bar, and that is because it is adjustable. The inner holes are for a stiffer adjustment, whereas the outer holes are for a less stiff adjustment.
(I personally chose the stiffer adjustment.)

Remove the endlinks off of the the factory bar and place them on the GarageLine the exact same way.


I will also add to not switch endlinks on concrete or gravel, etc. Or you will end up with a scratched up bar like me :(

Put some light grease in the inside of the aftermarket bushings before installing them on the aftermarket bar.
Now that the endlinks and the bushings are on the bar, put the bar back into position in the car.
Place the endlinks into position, and LIGHTLY tighten them.
Like so:

Push the bar up into place, and again, LIGHTLY tighten the bar mounts, making sure all 4 bolts are in place and not cross threaded.
Now, slide the bar either left or right, centering it on the vehicle.
Tighten the mounting bolts to 20-30ft.lbs.**
Tighten the endlinks to 20-30ft.lbs.**

Make sure the bar is still centered to the vehicle.

Now slide the bar collars into place, which should be as close to the inside of the swaybar bushings, to keep the swaybar from sliding around. Once in place, hand tighten.**

It should now look like this.





Put your wheels on and lower your car. You are now finished!
Go out and enjoy the awesomeness!!

Here are the finishing steps provided by GarageLine.
-I found them a bit confusing, that's why I made my own.


5) Place the new sway bar into place endlink mounts to the front of the car and the bushing mounts facing up. Once You have on mount on the car, loosely tighten the bolts. Slide the other bushing mount off and grease the sway bar in between the bushing and the bar itself. This is to keep the bar from making any noise. Now reinstall the bushing mount and tighten the 14mm bolt to 20-30 ft. lbs. Make sure the bar is centered. Grease the other bushing and tighten like the first one.
6) Now tighten the endlinks to 20-30 ft. lbs.
7) Last step is to slide the shaft collars into place. They should be close to the inside of the swaybar bushing, keeping the swaybar from sliding out of position. Once in the correct place, hand tighten.
8) Done... Lower and enjoy!
 

·
I <3 Boobs!
Joined
·
17,486 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
As always, comments and/or questions are welcome!!!!!
 

·
White 2.0T A/T
Joined
·
772 Posts
How stiff is the ride now? Is it too stiff without upgrading the front strut bar? Now that's its been some time I wanna know your thoughts.
 

·
I <3 Boobs!
Joined
·
17,486 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
How stiff is the ride now? Is it too stiff without upgrading the front strut bar? Now that's its been some time I wanna know your thoughts.
The ride is amazing. Its stiff, but comfortable. Handles like a dream too. The rear sway has the 2 settings, and I use the stiffest one. Very predictable. Much much much better over my R-spec stock setup.
Anyone who gets this setup won't be unsatisfied.
I will, most likely still upgrade the front strut tower bar, eventually. But being that we have one from factory, an aftermarket one won't do much except add looks to it.
Anything else or more specific?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,419 Posts
Do you find the car under steers less as that's my main problem with my 3.8 track. Thing under steers like a monster.
What year is yours? I don't seem to have an understeer problem. I'll take it around an on ramp at 65-70 mph winding out 3rd straight as an arrow. It'd like to do it at 90 though.

OP, do you have any personal experience estimates on how much it's better. Ex: same on ramp used to be max at 60 now you can do it at 70, etc? Just curious. It is $210, I gotta ask.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
I installed the same rear sway bar and I keep snapping the end links. Does anyone sell heavy duty end links?
 

·
I <3 Boobs!
Joined
·
17,486 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
What year is yours? I don't seem to have an understeer problem. I'll take it around an on ramp at 65-70 mph winding out 3rd straight as an arrow. It'd like to do it at 90 though.

OP, do you have any personal experience estimates on how much it's better. Ex: same on ramp used to be max at 60 now you can do it at 70, etc? Just curious. It is $210, I gotta ask.
I dont have any exact experiences/examples to give to you (such as speeds and such) but I will say that it handles much much better than my stock R-spec swaybar/suspension. My car is much more predictable
and handles so much better.




I installed the same rear sway bar and I keep snapping the end links. Does anyone sell heavy duty end links?
I haven't snapped any end links yet and I'm on the hardest setting. Strange? Hmm.
As for anyone selling more heavy duty end links, I haven't got the slightest idea sir. Sorry :/
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
126 Posts
Ill check them out!

does it matter if you put the left endlink on the right side and the right endlink on the left side??
 

·
I <3 Boobs!
Joined
·
17,486 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Ill check them out!

does it matter if you put the left endlink on the right side and the right endlink on the left side??

I'm pretty sure that they're identical. If not, they probably wouldn't have went on.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
783 Posts
I dont see how this adds anything. Just because it's a little thicker it's better? Seems like the main point of the bars is having a connection from side to side. Its not like the bar it self is bent or bending....Maybe Im a little special :dunno:
 

·
I <3 Boobs!
Joined
·
17,486 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
I dont see how this adds anything. Just because it's a little thicker it's better? Seems like the main point of the bars is having a connection from side to side. Its not like the bar it self is bent or bending....Maybe Im a little special :dunno:

Being that the bar is thicker, it has less flex. Less flex = less body roll. :)
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top