I finally got it all done. Put the bigger Koyo 3.8L radiator in the 2L engine bay. Reason is I don't have the stock IC and needed a bigger radiator. I had tried the Mishimoto one for the 2L a year ago but had issues with it fitting and sent it back. I wanted one that would fill the entire fan area. This will not work with the factory IC.
You do not need to modify the radiator if you do not want to. I can see why someone would not like to cut up on their brand new radiator. But to make the fan shroud fit like factory this is what I did.
Tools needed
10mm deep 1/4" drive socket
1/4" ratchet wrench
1/4" long extension
8mm socket for hose clamps
10mm wrench
Sawzall with a blade for cutting aluminum
sharp knife to cut hose
bucket, funnel for antifreeze
jack and jack stands
6mm x 1.0 thread tap
6mm x 1.0 bottom tap
16/64 drill bit
drill
marker
tape measure
Material needed
Dayco 71695 Length C hose
3.5" of 3/4 x 3/4 x 1/16" aluminum channel
1- 6m x 1.0 x20mm bolt, 1- 6 mm nut, 1- 6 mm lock washer and 1- 1/4" flat washer.
2- 6mm x 1.0 x 12mm bolts with 1/4" flat washers
2- #20 hose clamps. For 1.25" hose.
Radiator Removal
Jack up car and support with stands.
Remove flat panel under the radiator (4 -10mm bolts)
Drain radiator
Remove hoses
Remove overflow tank (2-10mm bolts)
Remove fan and shroud (2-10mm bolts)
Remove radiator upper supports (2 -10mm bolts each side)
Remove bolts securing condenser to radiator (2-10mm bolts) *The bottom of the Condenser sits in some slots attached to the radiator. It takes some persuading to separate the two.*
Remove radiator
The Koyo 3.8L radiator is 26"W x 19.5"H x 1.25"T, it is 6" taller and a 0.25" thicker than the stock 2L radiator. It is also double the thickness of the OEM 3.8L radiator. The fit in the car was perfect with the condenser bolting right up and the bottom radiator feet sitting in the same position as the factory IC feet. When bolting the condenser to the radiator make sure the bolt on the passenger side is short and does not dig into the condenser side tank when fully tightened.
Lower hose is a Dayco 71695 Length C and is for the Dodge Neon as well as many other cars. Should not be hard to find.
You do need to trim about 2" off the shorter end.
But there were some issues. Foremost was the my IC pipes as they use to go under the lower hose but now have to come over the top. So I had to get a custom pipe welded up.
The shroud does not match up with the radiator mounting points. There are two long ones and a short one. The short one puts the fan too low. If you do not want to modify the radiator I had the fan shroud mounted with HD wire tires, one on the upper hose pipe and one on the passenger side shroud lower tab to radiator tab holder. The shroud tab sits below the radiator tab holder.
If you want the factory look then it's time to slice and dice.
The passenger side threaded boss is too long and sits too high. You need to cut 3/8" off it and the retap the hole.
Then make a bracket from the aluminum angle, which I got at a hardware store, 3.5" long. Drill one hole mount to the shroud and size it for the other hole. You end up with this. This is also where you need the extra bolt and nut. This picture has the full length boss before I cut it off.
The drivers side long mounting boss needs 3/4" cut off of it, drilled 3/8"" deeper and threaded with a tap. Because it is so shallow you will need to finish with a bottom tap. You can do the first tap with the normal tap, then make a bottom tap by griding the normal tap nearly flat on the end. Just leave a bit of taper ~2 threads. This photo shows my first cut. The black line is the depth of threads. I ended up cutting at the black line and drilling another 3/8" then retaping.
Here's a pic of the final cut compared to the short boss not used.
The other problem is the lower hose pipe is a bit too long. It forces the radiator hose back against the subframe. Not completely necessary as the hose could be protected with some rubber. But I cut an inch off the connector.
Even with the hose cut and the new IC pipe the hose came too close to the pipe so I put some red rubber sheeting I cut up for protection. There is also a piece between the frame and the IC pipe. This is pretty hard rubber yet still flexible.
Put the upper hose on last as it makes putting the bolts in much easier.
You will need the shorter 6mm bolts to attach the fan shroud to the radiator. Use the 1/4" washers under the heads to protect the shroud plastic. The SAE washer is bigger in diameter than a metric washer. They act like small fender washers.
Put overflow back in and connect the hoses. Refill the system, I take the small hose off the front of the motor where it goes into the steel pipe to vent the system when filling. (TB bypass hoses).
I've become convinced that if you used the 3.8L fan and shroud there would be no modifications to the radiator needed, except shortening the lower hose nipple.
May be able to just use the shroud and the 2L fan but they seem to be sold as one piece.
Good DIY writeup. So have you been able to determine if the larger radiator is doing a better job of cooling oil compared to OEM radiator & oil cooler combo?
Oil temp definitely ran cooler with the oil cooler and OEM radiator rather than just the Koyo but I have not seen any real hot temps or stress.
With the Koyo and an oil cooler I would not think oil temps would be a problem unless you got into the super HP range. Especially if you got a more efficient style cooler. Don't really want to put it in front of the radiator.
They make one twice the size of this at a 11" x 11" x 1-1/2" core.
But I would like to say it is my opinion if one were to get the 3.8L fan shroud it would bolt right to the radiator with no modification needed for anything. The fans are different depending on the engine too so I do not know if the 2L fan would fit the 3.8L shroud.
Going this way the only real problem may be the hot side IC pipes.
After seeing the elimination of the weak original 2010 IC and Hyundai going to a front mount IC, they also went to the same size dimensional radiator for V6 and 4cyl. So this mod should be even easier to do now.
Use the OEM lower hose form a'12 and up and the fan shroud from either a '10-'12 V6 or the +13' models.
Although the '12 and up radiator is the same size there are 4 different part numbers. Obviously the autos have a cooler for the trans built into them but I don't know what the other differences are. Possible the way the fan shroud mounts or the tabs for the condenser.
Finally got a hold of a V6 fan and shroud. Rainy here now so I can't compare them side by side. The connector is different with much bigger lugs.
But I will get to see if the fan blade and motor are swapable. Not that I want to but I always wondered why the different part numbers. Judging from the connector it may be the V6 fan pulls higher amps.
The shroud externally is the same dimension. It just does not have the open lower bottom corners with the cross hatch design for the IC.
The fan blades are a little different but same diameter, same mounting holes for the fan blade.
The motors are different because of the plug on the end for power. I swapped my old motor in and used the new blade. The wire is a bit too short when using the wire loom clips to hold it in. Just skipped one of them and it will work.
It looks like the +13s used 12 ga wire for both lo and hi speed. The '10s use a smaller wire for the lo speed.
I ordered a stock V6 radiator replacement but after getting it and comparing to the stock 2L radiator it was not an upgrade as it was thinner that the 2L by 2/3s. I returned the part and went to the Koyo which is 1/3 less thick than the stock 2L radiator but the larger frontal area.
After seeing the elimination of the weak original 2010 IC and Hyundai going to a front mount IC, they also went to the same size dimensional radiator for V6 and 4cyl. So this mod should be even easier to do now.
Use the OEM lower hose form a'12 and up and the fan shroud from either a '10-'12 V6 or the +13' models.
Although the '12 and up radiator is the same size there are 4 different part numbers. Obviously the autos have a cooler for the trans built into them but I don't know what the other differences are. Possible the way the fan shroud mounts or the tabs for the condenser.
When you say to use the OEM lower (hose) from a '12 and up......... Do you mean 2.0 or 3.8. I thought we were all the same on the 2009-2012 on the 2.0s then the 2013-2014 were the same. Major changes to trans, diff and turbo.
I am in total agreement on the larger frontal area. But there is also the decreased resistance to flow. The area that was formally occupied by our stock intercoolers, has nothing in front of it to restrict the flow through that 3.8 radiator.
My main question to you is.... what is the distance at the lower hose, from the back of the radiator measured straight out, to the back furthest point of the lower radiator hose. I have the Mishimoto race FMIC in mine and the hot air piping is 2.5 inches from the back surface of the radiator. I do not think the lower hose OEM hose is going to make that radical of a bend. does anyone know the measurement?
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