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KDM as F*CK
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1,400 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
This is for any type of lowering springs.
If I missed anything please let me know.
And if you have pictures of your install please post it on here
to make it easier for others to understand.

Tools: Jack / Jackstands
Wrench/Ratchet+sockets
2 coat hangers
Impact gun
Extension for impact or ratchet
Marker (sharpie/paint pen)

Fronts:

1. Take off wheels.
2. Unbolt 3 nuts at the top of the strut tower. (same ones that hold your strut bar in place.)
3. Unbolt brake line.
4. Unbolt sway bar link.
5. Undo two bolts that are at the bottom of the strut tower.
(At this point the whole brake assembly will fall. Use a coat hanger to hold it up in place.)
6. Use spring compressor to swap springs/bump stops. Also it is easier to use a impact gun to take the top bolt off of the assembly as the center rod in the strut will spin with the nut if you use a ratchet/wrench.
7. Reverse the order to reassemble. You can replace the TOP bolt on the lower half of the strut assembly with a camber bolt if you want to.)
8. Put wheels back on and torque to spec.

Rears:

1. Take off rear wheels.
2. Place a jack under the control arm
3. Unbolt top two bolts of strut tower.
4. Mark position of rear camber bolts.
5. Instead of unbolting the sway bar link and having the bolt spin with your ratchet or impact, I found it easier to just undo all four bolts that hold the sway bar onto your car.
** This next step only applies to the trims that have this.
*** Unbolt the thing in the center of the control arm that connects to the sensor.
6. Unbolt two bolts that connect the rear control arm to your brake assembly.
7. Slowly lower the jack until it doesn't touch the control arm anymore.
8. Pull the rear strut out. In order to do this, you need a pry bar to pull the lower control arm down or push down on the lower control arm with your foot to get the strut out.
9. Pull the lower control arm even harder and wiggle the spring out.
10. Use a impact gun to take top bolt off of the strut and replace the bump stops.
11. Replace spring with aftermarket and place strut in place.
12. Bolt the top of the strut up first.
13. Use the jack to raise the lower control arm to line up the holes for the bolts. Once lined up, replaced both bolts at the end of the control arm.
14. Bolt sway bar back up into place.
15. Make sure camber bolt is lined up with the mark you made.
16. Put wheels back on and torque to spec.
17. Let the car settle down completely then GET AN ALIGNMENT!



 

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3.5L TT but wrong body
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College Student :(
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1,503 Posts
Just wanted to add sizes for clarity. Strut top bolts are a 14mm, strut base bolt is a 19mm and nut is a 17mm, shock bolt on top is a deep 19mm, brake line bolt is a 12mm, and tie rod bolt is a 19mm. These are just the fronts. I'm starting the rear later. Will update.
 

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Registered
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1,812 Posts
Just wanted to add sizes for clarity. Strut top bolts are a 14mm, strut base bolt is a 19mm and nut is a 17mm, shock bolt on top is a deep 19mm, brake line bolt is a 12mm, and tie rod bolt is a 19mm. These are just the fronts. I'm starting the rear later. Will update.
You should take pictures of every step as you do it, would make this DIY even better. :)

Why is this in the "Autralia" section ???
 

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3.5L TT but wrong body
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12,003 Posts
I'd suggest loosening the nut on top of the front struts a turn or two before taking them out. I also didn't have to take the rear strut out to swap the springs and only had to take out the 2 bolts closest to the rotor. VERY easy to swap the springs in this car. Tein doesn't include new bump stops so I was able to cut the factory ones while they were still on the strut. Anyone swapping bump stops will need to take the rear struts out.
 

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The one the only
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2,325 Posts
i used this DIY to do my Tein's and i could not be more happy with how it came it great job bro
 

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1,812 Posts
I'd suggest loosening the nut on top of the front struts a turn or two before taking them out. I also didn't have to take the rear strut out to swap the springs and only had to take out the 2 bolts closest to the rotor. VERY easy to swap the springs in this car. Tein doesn't include new bump stops so I was able to cut the factory ones while they were still on the strut. Anyone swapping bump stops will need to take the rear struts out.
Good to know, I'll be attempting this in the spring. I bought the Eibach Pro-Kit, can I just cut my factory stops also? or would people suggest using the new ones that came with the set? I think I remember reading about people having to zip-tie the new ones or they wouldn't stay in place.

Would be nice to not to have to remove the rears.
 

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Sex Machine
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1,514 Posts
Just out of curiosity, what compressor are u guys using? I was thinking of picking one up for future product installs and at home DIY stuff. I don't want to buy one that can't handle taking off lug nuts.
 

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College Student :(
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1,503 Posts
I have a 5 gallon compressor with a kobalt gun. Got it for free from my mechanic and it does not work on anything tighter than like 80 ftlbs. It's not the gun just the compressor can't hold enough pressure. Oh and a spring compressor isn't required. Just sit on the top of the strut and unbolt the nut. Do the same putting it back together and when you put everything back on and take the jacks out tighten the strut nut again with the car weight on it. Much quicker and cheaper than using a spring compressor. The springs aren't under THAT much pressure.
 
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