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FUNCTION OVER FORM
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Disclaimer: As always, I hold no responsibility for damage to your vehicle or injury to your person while attempting this modification.

I give this a 2 out of 5 difficulty with the only hard part being having enough balls to splice into your OEM wiring harness. The ability to properly solder & heat shrink wiring is highly recommended.

Tools needed: Solder iron, roll of solder, electrical tape, knife, heat shrink, wire strippers, 10mm socket & ratchet driver (cordless impact), phillips screw driver along with a cordless if available, 10mm & 12mm wrenches.

Additional parts needed: 1000ohm capacitor, 3 electrical connectors with an eye (loop) on the end & a switch that activates when depressed (R-Spec models only).



We will start by prepping our parts beginning with the N2MB little blue box. When mounting it look for a location that will be easily accessable for when you want to engage the device, yet is not in the way that it might be accidentally activated.

I chose my drivers side kick panel for the mounting location of my WOT box & removed it by prying off the hood release handle, then pulling the weatherstrip back, followed by popping off the driver's door entrance guard. I was then able to pop out cleanly.



As you can see, I installed it near the top of the kick panel so that it wouldn't be in danger of being hit by accident too easily. Here is a pick of it installed with the kick panel back in place.



Next we want to prepare the pin switch we aquired. We will start by extending the positive wire that came too short from the manufacturer of the switch & install a ground wire using one of the electrical connectors with the loop on the end that we will secure using our crimping wire stripper pliers.



Strip the both wires coming from the switch. Now do the same with two wires you gathered up from your junk wiring box. If you don't have a junk wiring box, go purchase a spool of red & a spool of black 16 gauge wire so that you will have it for this mod & also for future use.

Now you will need to slide a piece of heat shrink properly fitted over one of the wires to be connected on the positive & ground. You can then splice the wires together by pushing the ends into each other so that the copper wires interlace with one another on each piece of wire. You will then need to install the 1000ohm resister inline in the ground wire using solder & heat shrink. The green wire from the WOT box will attach to the ground wire from the switch on the section of wire between the resister and switch itself. For the switch, your going to have power going to one side, then the ground (with the 1000 ohm resistor) on the other. The green wire will go between where you put the resistor and the switch itself. The black wire from the WOT box can be grounded with the ground wire coming from the switch using a self tapping screw into the metal beneath the kick panel. Be sure to lightly scuff the area that the screw will going into for better grounding characteristics.

Now heat up your solder iron. Once the solder iron is warm, hold it against the interlaced wires getting them hot & apply the solder after uncoiling it from its spool. Once you have a nice even covering of solder & it has cooled, slide the heat shrink over the soldered area & all visible copper wiring. Now you will need a small torch or can use a lighter to heat up the heat shrink to where it adheres to the wiring all the way around with no air pockets. Your final product should look like this.



Now we can install the switch. If you look underneath the driver's side of the dash, you will see a plastic bracket there that is for a cruise control switch & if you have anything besides the R-Spec, you already have cruise, thus will not have to purchase the switch.





Now the red power wire from the switch is going to tap into the wiring harness behind the driver's kick panel into the red hot wire I have stripped in the pic above. Since we are not cutting the OEM red wire & just tapping into it, we need to use strippers better suited to the task, then wrap with electrical tape securely.



Time for our to tap into the accelerator pedal wiring. First remove the accelerator pedal assembly by popping out the plug covering the bolt with a small flat head screw driver or mechanics pick. Then use your ratchet & 10mm socket to remove the bolt. The pedal should come free now, but you will have to unplug the connector going into the bottom of the accelerator pedal sensor.



Now you can tap into the pink wire using the blue wire from the WOT box by the same method you did for the red wire in the kick panel wrapping it with your electrical tape when done.



Now we are going to head under the hood. So you will need to route the yellow wire & the red/black wire through the grommet on the drivers floor board where the hood release cable protrudes.



We will start with the yellow wire that goes to the red wire on the fuel rail prior to any of the injectors. Once again we are going to use the splice method with electrical tape for this tap. Now you can go back & install the wire loom around the yellow wire all the way back to the firewall where the wires came into the engine compartment.




Now we will move over to the passenger's side fuse block junction box to tap into the coil wire. Here you will first need to unplug & remove the connectors.




Then take the two 10mm nuts off holding the junction block in place. Flip the fuse block over & remove the bottom cover carefully using a prying device such as a flat head screw driver.



With the cover off, locate the green wire I've indicated in the pic with the 2 mechanics picks. It is thicker than most of the rest of the wires & you will be able to move it back & forth seeing the other side move as you pull/push.



Pull a majority of the wire to one side & cut it in half. Once severed, strip both ends of the green wire you just cut.. Now you will take your red/black wire combo (like speaker wire) & splice the red wire into the green OEM wire on the buss (fuse) side of the fuse block using the soldering method followed by heat shrink. Do the same thing with the black wire using the other green wire from the junction block. Don't forget to slide a piece of hink shrink over the end of the red & the black WOT box wires. The final product should look like this.



Now put the cover back on the bottom of the fuse block, flip it back over & mount back in place on the shock tower using the two nuts you removed earlier. Now you can go back & install the wire loom around the black/red wire all the way back to the firewall where the wires came into the engine compartment.

You're done!

Note: I have not tested this on my car as it is still down waiting on parts, so I will update soon when she is back up & running posting a video of this in action.
 

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So what does this WOT box do?
 

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Looks good. N2mb should have my directions on the site now as well. I can't wait till you get your car right to try it out!! Your gunna love it!!
 

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Wot box is a two step launch control and wot shift control.
 

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Holy **** thats a lot of wires lol... I've been really considering getting this but its for sure not something I can do. Maybe project7x can help me.

Also, what pedals are you running? They look nice, do you like them?

Oh and surf, I'm jealous of your times and the fact that you can actually go to the strip right now! I just fixed my powersteering line after over a week of not being able to drive and it was great to beat on the car again although I had no traction because of the snow/water on the roads...
 

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FUNCTION OVER FORM
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Discussion Starter #8
Holy **** thats a lot of wires lol... I've been really considering getting this but its for sure not something I can do. Maybe project7x can help me.

Also, what pedals are you running? They look nice, do you like them?

Oh and surf, I'm jealous of your times and the fact that you can actually go to the strip right now! I just fixed my powersteering line after over a week of not being able to drive and it was great to beat on the car again although I had no traction because of the snow/water on the roads...
I love the pedals, they are SRP heel/toe pedal I picked up from TiC. These are the waffle design as there are 4 different types of grip to choose from.
 

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Heel/toe has improved? I have a bit of trouble in the car because my pumas are very narrow. I noticed with my snow boots on its easier because the side of my foot can get the gas pedal easier, although I can't feel whats going on with the boots on.
 

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if we have cruise control, we don't need to make the switch and the resistor right?
 

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SUN★WORKS
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if we have cruise control, we don't need to make the switch and the resistor right?
That is correct. Instead of doing that you will tap into that switch, or you can tap into it under the hood. Underneath the hood is easier just so your not laying upside down under the dash. I dont have a picture of that wire with me, but the wire is Green. (not like that drastically helps now haha) If you plan to do this, i can take a picture of the wire you need.
 

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KDM as F*CK
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Do you know why the check engine light was blinking?
 

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What is this switch you had to purchase and what does it do? It would be nice to have a picture with all of the materials such as the switch, wires and wot box.
 

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That is correct. Instead of doing that you will tap into that switch, or you can tap into it under the hood. Underneath the hood is easier just so your not laying upside down under the dash. I dont have a picture of that wire with me, but the wire is Green. (not like that drastically helps now haha) If you plan to do this, i can take a picture of the wire you need.
can you send me that please, thanks.
 

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On the n2mb site there is my install guide along with the switch part number. You can get them from theinstallbay.com. The switch is so the box knows the clutch is pressed down. With the clutch and throttle down it knows to start it's job. The blinking cel is because the ecu will see a random misfire while the two step is working. It is basically just a calculated misfire lol.
 

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Ya it's nice to be able to track all year round!! It just sux in the summer when you know you are going three plus tenths slower cuz it's 100 deg and there is more moisture in the air than air itself lol.
 

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SUN★WORKS
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can you send me that please, thanks.
Sure but it wont be until the weekend when i got home. (im at college now)

send me a PM with your mail address to i can send it over.
 

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FUNCTION OVER FORM
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Discussion Starter #18
What is this switch you had to purchase and what does it do? It would be nice to have a picture with all of the materials such as the switch, wires and wot box.
The switch is one I had laying around....it is just a pin switch like the one your hood depresses when closed to complete the loop for the alarm system. All the wires came with the WOT box other than a short strand of power & ground I used for the switch.

Here is a pic the switch with additional wiring.

 

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KDM as F*CK
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On the n2mb site there is my install guide along with the switch part number. You can get them from theinstallbay.com. The switch is so the box knows the clutch is pressed down. With the clutch and throttle down it knows to start it's job. The blinking cel is because the ecu will see a random misfire while the two step is working. It is basically just a calculated misfire lol.
When it reads a random misfire doesn't the engine cut power? Thats what mine did when my spark plugs went bad.
 

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Oh I get it now. Thanks Tufast. Sorry for being short earlier. I was out on my phone and just couldn't quite understand that part. I thought the box was hooked to the clutch depress safety switch, the one that won't let the car start unless the clutch is fully depressed so I didn't get the function of the switch or why it was even needed. Tell me why it's needed and not hooked to the clutch depress safety switch? I always thought it would.

Excellent write-up.
 
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