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DIY: P2261 ECU error / CEL Fix (2010-2012)

98K views 78 replies 30 participants last post by  josesevven19 
#1 ·
Hi All,
I was having the " P2261 - Turbocharger/Supercharger Bypass Valve - Mechanical " ecu error code you get when switching to an aftermarket BOV and running line directly to IM, however mine never through a CEL. But I have found the problem why it was causing this and have found a fix for this issue. Not sure if it's the same for the 2013 as I've never looked at their boost/vacuum solenoids.


PROBLEM: Capping the boost solenoid BPV port with a vacuum nipple cap. This was making the ECU think it's "stuck" closed as it's not getting any response from this port anymore.





FIX: Remove the cap, add a hose to it like normal, but T into the existing vacuum/boost line right under it.

 
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#3 ·
Thanks! Glad it worked for you man! It worked for me also like a charm. Car is in tip top shape now and boosting how she should!

Kepone said he was having trouble with it working. He said he cleared ECU codes last night and the error code came back twice today. I believe he is having other problems causing his P2261.
 
#4 ·
I don't think this will work for everyone. My setup is also different- cold side BOV, upgraded turbo, different tune, etc.
 
#10 ·
hey man I'm getting the same code as you but my other vacuum lines on the solenoid are open because I'm running a upgraded turbo and mbc...I tried hooking up directly through the intake manifold and it didn't change...my new bov is making a flutter noise instead of the PSSSSHH noise...I made sure to line the bov correctly when installing in on my turbo...i honestly don't kno
thanks for any input
 
#12 ·
I installed a synapse bov on the weekend and just got this code, but the kit runs off the stock solenoid location directly to the bov. Anyone else get this code with the synapse kit?
 
#19 ·
I'm running my forge bpv valve the same way off the I'M, so I caped the solenoid, I have no cel but boost I feel might b leaking, I'm going to try this fix perhaps will will show improvement? Thanks
 
#23 ·
Just got this code after running HKS for over 6 months off the solenoid.... Very disappointed.... This morning I decided to clear the code, then when I was on my way back from work, the car felt gutless and the bov was barely going off.... I inspected all hoses, everything is fine with no leaks... Cleared the code again, we'll see how it runs tomorrow, otherwise I have to give this a shot.
 
#24 ·
I gave this a try and there's no more code after the reset BUT something is not right after this... The boost doesn't go above 13 PSI anymore at WOT. Even though I have no tune, I have seen it go above 16 PSI at times, especially on third gear. Besides, my HKS is no more loud and doesn't have that famous pst-pst-pst anymore (sequential sound I guess)... Also, it doesn't go off as often as it would when hooked up to the solenoid and the duration of the BOV isn't as long anymore, which almost makes me think it doesn't open long enough for pressure release. Finally, just as I already mentioned, when hooked up to the solenoid - no matter how quick or how slow you release the gas pedal - the solenoid still opens the BOV and it goes off every time you do so. I know it's super annoying but I kinda got used to it since this is how it was hooked up originally but now if I do it slow enough - the BOV doesn't make a sound at all..

Can someone confirm if what I described above is OK?? 13 PSI is weak as hell...
 
#27 ·
This is my third day running it tee'd before the black/white check valve... I've used 3/8" brass tee from Lowe's and some 3/8" fuel line I had laying around. I think it got a little louder; however, at times it doesn't go off at all when i slowly release the gas pedal... Is that normal? The OEM solenoid is tee'd to the compressor housing and so far without any codes but like I said, the boost stays within 13-14 PSI as opposed to 16 PSI like before. I use torque app to monitor my boost.
 
#29 ·
I'm having this issue. My car has no power and i hear the turbo spooling like a loud drill. getting the P2261 my bov is the ssqv from hks and is run on the inter cooler pipe and t'd into the intake manifold. the solenoid on the passenger side is completely closed off with two vacuum caps and i thought because on of the caps split that was the problem but it wasn't. Still have no power
 
#32 ·
Ok so the solenoid that is connected to the tan plug has a vac/boost port right under the tan plug. It appears you still have the T on the coming out of that port. The line connecting into the T is going where? Looks like it goes down by the turbo somewhere.
 
#35 ·
Yeah your setup is Janky and wrong as I figured it would be. You have a few options however.

So you're running the OEM BPV still even though you have an aftermarket BOV. Your OEM BOV is T'd between the WG & compressor housing which is a NO NO. Basically that is the reason you're not making power/boost because all the boost you would be building is just going though the line and opening your BPV.

1. Buy a Bov block off plate, remove the OEM bpv, install block off plate.
2. Remove the T so it's just a straight line from the solenoid port to the wastegate.

That's it. Your car will run and actually boost like it should.

If your HKS BoV was still being run off your OEM bov solenoid Id say to follow what red said up there as that is the OEM way to run the lines however we aren't. The HKS bov blows sack when run off the OEM solenoid. It's too heavy of a valve and doesn't open properly/fully that way.

Leave your hks bov connected like it is and just do those 2 things I said.

FYI, you'll still get the error code mentioned in this thread but it doesn't affect anything. Your car will run and perform just fine.

The error code is basically just telling you something is wrong with the solenoid. It thinks this because there are vacuum caps on the ports which in turn makes the ECU/solenoid think it's "clogged/blocked". This will not cause your car to go into limp mode nor does it affect the motors performance in a negative way.

Hope this helps.
 
#40 ·
I wanna try this today. I have this issue also, we've gotten the code before but usually turn car off, but it seems lately it co stanly looses boost, won't even be driving hard and gone, now that I've installed the intercooler, boost keeps acting up, running the forge bov with the blue spring, so I'm bout out of options as to what...also keeps getting cylinder 4 misfire, now we've been tuned for quite a while, 45K miles in fact, without issue. But now I've replaced 4 sets of NGK plugs this year and keep getting the misfire. Today I took the bov and cleaned it real good and re greased the piston (I didn't know we had to maintain it oops) so first drive, started backfiring like crazy, thinking the spark gap mah be too much? It's at .35 now
 
#41 ·
Update, installed new BPV today, still got the code after a few pulls, and lost boost again, also when light on the throttle you can hear the BOV hissing like it never has before, usually just hear the turbo spool which still can if your heavy on the gas, so something still isn't right here. I did reset the ecu the other day and this has been the problem since
 
#42 ·
You say you've gone through 4 sets of plugs this year and still have a misfire? Have you considered checking your spark plug coils to see if that's actually the issue? That would be my next step, and are you still running a Forge bov? From what I understand there are different springs you can buy, maybe you need one rated at a lower psi. I'm just throwing suggestions out there, hope you get everything solved
 
#43 ·
yeah, we went thru plugs due to a overheating issue so rather replace the one fouled plug, i replaced all 4, now the misfire isn't coming back now. So tonight i took the BOV off again, yes the forge one, with yellow spring, and noticed the piston didn't release when i unscrewed the end, so i pulled it out and it looks dry, yet greased if that makes sense, weird, maybe i didn't use the right grease the other day when i did it? So i put it back together, this time i didn't screw the end on all the way either, got it little tight, left a few threads and went for a drive, did a bunch of passes back and forth no problem, no pending code, so headed home, 3.8 pulled up and got on it so f it, i did too, after that, code is back pending now, back to 5psi.... I'm totally lost.... almost tempted to put the vaccuum back the way it was oem since we never had the issue before and go from there, I'm torn to think ECU, or BOV, cause this didn't start happening until the other day when i pulled the ECU fuse to "relearn" the car with the new mods... but Jay from SFR says it's not the ECU...
 
#44 ·
Ok so today I was told by jay to put stock BOV on, didn't fix the problem, code came back after about 15 miles, back to square 1, so we now know it's NOT the BOV that was on the car
 
#46 ·
yes i checked it the other day and replaced the bov solenoid so it's brand new... Im curious if since we reset the ecu, should we just drive it safe for a few days so it relearns, or replace the bov with a snyapse bov. it's been fine for 30K+ miles, that's why i don't understand how once we reset it, now theres issue
 
#47 ·
Ok so everyone seams to be having this P2261 problem because they are running some sort of after marker BOV or BPV or something. I have a completely stock 2012 Genesis coupe 2.0t and I have the P2261 CEL I pulled off my solenoid cleaned it re installed it but still have the CEL. Car drives fine haven't noticed any performance loss but still have the CELl.Any suggestions ?
 
#48 ·
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