13-14 psi is stock for 10-12 2.0. Also the HKS works 10x better if you have it hooked up directly to the manifold.I gave this a try and there's no more code after the reset BUT something is not right after this... The boost doesn't go above 13 PSI anymore at WOT. Even though I have no tune, I have seen it go above 16 PSI at times, especially on third gear. Besides, my HKS is no more loud and doesn't have that famous pst-pst-pst anymore (sequential sound I guess)... Also, it doesn't go off as often as it would when hooked up to the solenoid and the duration of the BOV isn't as long anymore, which almost makes me think it doesn't open long enough for pressure release. Finally, just as I already mentioned, when hooked up to the solenoid - no matter how quick or how slow you release the gas pedal - the solenoid still opens the BOV and it goes off every time you do so. I know it's super annoying but I kinda got used to it since this is how it was hooked up originally but now if I do it slow enough - the BOV doesn't make a sound at all..
Can someone confirm if what I described above is OK?? 13 PSI is weak as hell...
Please take a picture of your setup. It sounds super janky and not correct.I'm having this issue. My car has no power and i hear the turbo spooling like a loud drill. getting the P2261 my bov is the ssqv from hks and is run on the inter cooler pipe and t'd into the intake manifold. the solenoid on the passenger side is completely closed off with two vacuum caps and i thought because on of the caps split that was the problem but it wasn't. Still have no power
That line should have vacuum on it from the intake vacuum tank when the BOV solenoid is normally off.Ok so the solenoid that is connected to the tan plug has a vac/boost port right under the tan plug. It appears you still have the T on the coming out of that port. The line connecting into the T is going where? Looks like it goes down by the turbo somewhere.
Heres more pictures my thumb points to the T and I'm pointing to where it runs
I've been having a similar issue, wondering what your end result was? please see my thread here, i need help :frown: http://www.gencoupe.com/2-0t-discus...apse-synchronic-bov-issues-2.html#post3764858
Have you tried removing the spring that's basically useless in the back of the BOV? I havent had any issues with mine lately (knock on wood).. I would tap into the intake manifold vacuum lines like the pics in the other thread you linked and try removing the spring - it'll allow the cylinder to move easier in the bov itself and I think I read that tip either somewhere on this forum or on facebook....I've been having a similar issue, wondering what your end result was? please see my thread here, i need help :frown: http://www.gencoupe.com/2-0t-discus...apse-synchronic-bov-issues-2.html#post3764858