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Just got this code after running HKS for over 6 months off the solenoid.... Very disappointed.... This morning I decided to clear the code, then when I was on my way back from work, the car felt gutless and the bov was barely going off.... I inspected all hoses, everything is fine with no leaks... Cleared the code again, we'll see how it runs tomorrow, otherwise I have to give this a shot.
 

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I gave this a try and there's no more code after the reset BUT something is not right after this... The boost doesn't go above 13 PSI anymore at WOT. Even though I have no tune, I have seen it go above 16 PSI at times, especially on third gear. Besides, my HKS is no more loud and doesn't have that famous pst-pst-pst anymore (sequential sound I guess)... Also, it doesn't go off as often as it would when hooked up to the solenoid and the duration of the BOV isn't as long anymore, which almost makes me think it doesn't open long enough for pressure release. Finally, just as I already mentioned, when hooked up to the solenoid - no matter how quick or how slow you release the gas pedal - the solenoid still opens the BOV and it goes off every time you do so. I know it's super annoying but I kinda got used to it since this is how it was hooked up originally but now if I do it slow enough - the BOV doesn't make a sound at all..

Can someone confirm if what I described above is OK?? 13 PSI is weak as hell...
 

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unce unce unce
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Discussion Starter #25
I gave this a try and there's no more code after the reset BUT something is not right after this... The boost doesn't go above 13 PSI anymore at WOT. Even though I have no tune, I have seen it go above 16 PSI at times, especially on third gear. Besides, my HKS is no more loud and doesn't have that famous pst-pst-pst anymore (sequential sound I guess)... Also, it doesn't go off as often as it would when hooked up to the solenoid and the duration of the BOV isn't as long anymore, which almost makes me think it doesn't open long enough for pressure release. Finally, just as I already mentioned, when hooked up to the solenoid - no matter how quick or how slow you release the gas pedal - the solenoid still opens the BOV and it goes off every time you do so. I know it's super annoying but I kinda got used to it since this is how it was hooked up originally but now if I do it slow enough - the BOV doesn't make a sound at all..

Can someone confirm if what I described above is OK?? 13 PSI is weak as hell...
13-14 psi is stock for 10-12 2.0. Also the HKS works 10x better if you have it hooked up directly to the manifold.
 

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I'd rather do it myself
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I've been running the cap on the BOV solenoid for a few years now and not problem. I run my BOV right off the intake manifold.
 

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This is my third day running it tee'd before the black/white check valve... I've used 3/8" brass tee from Lowe's and some 3/8" fuel line I had laying around. I think it got a little louder; however, at times it doesn't go off at all when i slowly release the gas pedal... Is that normal? The OEM solenoid is tee'd to the compressor housing and so far without any codes but like I said, the boost stays within 13-14 PSI as opposed to 16 PSI like before. I use torque app to monitor my boost.
 

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I'm having this issue. My car has no power and i hear the turbo spooling like a loud drill. getting the P2261 my bov is the ssqv from hks and is run on the inter cooler pipe and t'd into the intake manifold. the solenoid on the passenger side is completely closed off with two vacuum caps and i thought because on of the caps split that was the problem but it wasn't. Still have no power
 

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unce unce unce
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Discussion Starter #30
I'm having this issue. My car has no power and i hear the turbo spooling like a loud drill. getting the P2261 my bov is the ssqv from hks and is run on the inter cooler pipe and t'd into the intake manifold. the solenoid on the passenger side is completely closed off with two vacuum caps and i thought because on of the caps split that was the problem but it wasn't. Still have no power
Please take a picture of your setup. It sounds super janky and not correct.
 

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unce unce unce
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Discussion Starter #32
Ok so the solenoid that is connected to the tan plug has a vac/boost port right under the tan plug. It appears you still have the T on the coming out of that port. The line connecting into the T is going where? Looks like it goes down by the turbo somewhere.
 

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I'd rather do it myself
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Ok so the solenoid that is connected to the tan plug has a vac/boost port right under the tan plug. It appears you still have the T on the coming out of that port. The line connecting into the T is going where? Looks like it goes down by the turbo somewhere.
That line should have vacuum on it from the intake vacuum tank when the BOV solenoid is normally off.

 

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unce unce unce
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Discussion Starter #35
Heres more pictures my thumb points to the T and I'm pointing to where it runs

Yeah your setup is Janky and wrong as I figured it would be. You have a few options however.

So you're running the OEM BPV still even though you have an aftermarket BOV. Your OEM BOV is T'd between the WG & compressor housing which is a NO NO. Basically that is the reason you're not making power/boost because all the boost you would be building is just going though the line and opening your BPV.

1. Buy a Bov block off plate, remove the OEM bpv, install block off plate.
2. Remove the T so it's just a straight line from the solenoid port to the wastegate.

That's it. Your car will run and actually boost like it should.

If your HKS BoV was still being run off your OEM bov solenoid Id say to follow what red said up there as that is the OEM way to run the lines however we aren't. The HKS bov blows sack when run off the OEM solenoid. It's too heavy of a valve and doesn't open properly/fully that way.

Leave your hks bov connected like it is and just do those 2 things I said.

FYI, you'll still get the error code mentioned in this thread but it doesn't affect anything. Your car will run and perform just fine.

The error code is basically just telling you something is wrong with the solenoid. It thinks this because there are vacuum caps on the ports which in turn makes the ECU/solenoid think it's "clogged/blocked". This will not cause your car to go into limp mode nor does it affect the motors performance in a negative way.

Hope this helps.
 

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Thanks, a tune is definetly in my plans! I've narrowed my problem down to the rcv solenoid being the culprit, it can't open the synapse fast enough so it throws the code. Running mine off manifold vacuum for now, seems to work okay

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I've been having a similar issue, wondering what your end result was? please see my thread here, i need help :frown: http://www.gencoupe.com/2-0t-discus...apse-synchronic-bov-issues-2.html#post3764858
 

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I've been having a similar issue, wondering what your end result was? please see my thread here, i need help :frown: http://www.gencoupe.com/2-0t-discus...apse-synchronic-bov-issues-2.html#post3764858
Have you tried removing the spring that's basically useless in the back of the BOV? I havent had any issues with mine lately (knock on wood).. I would tap into the intake manifold vacuum lines like the pics in the other thread you linked and try removing the spring - it'll allow the cylinder to move easier in the bov itself and I think I read that tip either somewhere on this forum or on facebook....
The only other suggestion I can really think of is to replace the RCV solenoid itself and see if that fixes your problem. I forget how much they are at the dealer (I can find out at work but it'd be Canadian prices) When I ran into trouble with my Synapse I contacted them and basically their product is designed to run off the solenoid controls but he even suggested tapping into another vacuum source.
Good luck, it's such a pain when things like this dont work they've they should, I'll keep checking for updates in this thread and your other one!
 
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help please

hello, i have 2010 hyundai genesis coupe 2.0 ,i have a check engine light ,i went to auto zone they give me code p2261.it says supercharger by-pass valve stuck.what should i do ??
 

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I wanna try this today. I have this issue also, we've gotten the code before but usually turn car off, but it seems lately it co stanly looses boost, won't even be driving hard and gone, now that I've installed the intercooler, boost keeps acting up, running the forge bov with the blue spring, so I'm bout out of options as to what...also keeps getting cylinder 4 misfire, now we've been tuned for quite a while, 45K miles in fact, without issue. But now I've replaced 4 sets of NGK plugs this year and keep getting the misfire. Today I took the bov and cleaned it real good and re greased the piston (I didn't know we had to maintain it oops) so first drive, started backfiring like crazy, thinking the spark gap mah be too much? It's at .35 now
 
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