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NuConceptDesigns
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424 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey guys this is my first attempt at creating a DIY here and it might be pretty bad, I don't know! I've been running my own private garage for awhile now and I've done many rim refinishes and I'm excited to show you guys how to as well. Typically a store will charge you 400$ and upwards, but doing it yourself will save you a lot of money. The method that I use here is just the way I do things and I'm sure there many different ways of refinishing your rims. I choose to jack my car up completely using 4 jack stands. But people who do not have 4 jacks can do this as well... it will just take you a much longer time as you will have to do each rim 1 by 1. But none the less hope you guys will find this helpful.

*WARNING*
There's a few things you should know before you start this project and things that you should consider. It will take a lot of patience, and a lot of effort to do a good job. Also it's recommended that you have experience in painting and have a technique down. You have to understand that if you don't put the time and effort into doing the rims properly they will not turn out the way you want them to and that they will chip really easily. The painting experience and technique is really important too because if at any point you screw up (ie. splatters, coats are too thick and start to get runny, etc...) then it will become very very tough to fix and chances are you will have to redo the spoke or even the entire rim.

This does involved jacking your car up. Before you go start doing that make sure the jacks and stands that you will support the weight of your car.

I take no responsibility for anything that happens to your car. I am merely showing you how I do mine.

========================

Not all of them are actually according to the steps... but it shows what it should look like basically... If you get confused just let me know!


[ Tools Needed ]

Jacks / Jack Stands [Check the weights and make sure it can support]
2 Dupli-Color Wheel Paints
1 Dupli-Color Wheel Coating
2 Self-Etching Gray Primer
3M 240 Grit Sandpaper
Acetone
Microfiber Cloths
Axle Iron
Masking Tape
Newspapers
You may need a friend or someone to assist you
A few joints and some beer (Optional)



[Step 1]

Tools Needed
  • Axle Iron
  • Wheel Locks
If this is your first time trying to remove the wheels, it might be a little tough just cause it's never been removed before. Grab your torque wrench and loosen all of the wheel lug-nuts. Make sure you don't loosen them too much... just 1 turn is enough, you don't want the wheels falling off while you're jacking up your car.

*TIP*

When loosening your lug-nuts and also for tightening. Try to loosen them going horizontally.

For an example:

(Lug Nut Locations)

1 5 2
3 _ 4

For this to balance the pressure, I'm going to loosen it by doing 5 first then 1 -> 4 -> 2 - >3. If you just try to remove them in a circle 1 by 1 you may notice that the last lug-nut may be very tough to loosen. This is because now all the pressure is pushed against that 1 nut.



[Step 2]

Tools Needed
  • Jack
  • Jack Stand
For this you're going to have to get down low and look beneath your car. Near the edges of your car by the side skirts you'll notice that there is a long metal bar that runs end to end on each of your side skirts. This bar is used for jacking up your car and your OEM jack should fit into it nicely. I used a Mastercraft Jack to lift my car up. Jack the car up just enough so that your wheels have enough room to spin. Then position your jack stand into place and slowly lower your car down.

*TIP*

Don't jack up your car with your jack too close to the wheel or too far away from the wheel. Maybe 1 feet away from it. You want to be able to place the jack stand right beside where you jacked the car up.




[Step 3]

Tools Needed
  • Torque Wrench
After the car is fully jacked up and placed on the jack stands. Take your torque wrench and remove all of the lug-nuts. As for removing the wheels, you may or may not need 2 people.

Car jacked on all 4 stands


[Step 4]

Tools Needed
  • 3M 240 Grit Sand Paper
Now sand the **** out of your rims. You can never sand too much. The longevity of your rims will really come down to this procedure. The more you sand the better. Do not be lazy with this and put a lot of time into it. You want to try to sand it down to the bare metal which is optimal, but at the very minimum you should sand your rims down enough so that there are no more signs of the factory polish and the color should be dull and scuffed. Make sure you get everything nice and good. If you do not put time and effort into this part there is a high chance that your rims will chip early.

Sanded down to the bare metal BBS Rims



[Step 5]

Tools Needed
  • Acetone
  • Microfiber Cloth
  • Hose
After you're done with the sanding bring your wheels out and give it a wash and rinse it out. Let the rims dry for 15-30 mins outside, after it's dry pour some Acetone onto the cloth and start wiping down the rims.

Hosed down and Acetoned 8th Gen Accord Rims


[Step 6]

Tools Needed
  • Masking Tape
  • Newspapers
This step is simple, just masking out the air cap and the tires.

*TIP*

It's actually really hard to get the newspapers inbetween the tires and the rims. So what I normally do is with the masking tape, I slip it inbetween the tires and rims and then stick it down. Then I will get the newspaper and just tape it down over the existing tape. This way I know for sure the inside between the rubber and rims are masked off as well.

Mask it inbetween the actual rim and tire first.


Then use the newspaper and go over the tires.


[Step 7]

Tools Needed
  • Self-Etching Primer
Now it's time to add the primer. The self-etching primer is stronger than just normal primer. Self-Etching primer will latch and stick itself harder on the metal once it's sprayed on. Start with a nice thin coat of the primer. You don't have to cover everything yet, you'll go over the missed spots with the 2nd coat. The objective of the first coat is to just set a foundation. After your first layer is done, wait 15 minutes and then go over with a thicker coat of primer and get the spots that you missed the first time. When you're done - double check and make sure there are no missed spots or your paint will chip in the future.

*TIP*

Make sure you don't hold it for too long in one place and you do light feathering motions. Point A to B quickly but not so fast that it doesn't cover anything, just a nice smooth motion. I cannot emphasize enough on how important it is not to hold it on 1 spot for too long and not to do too thick of coats. Results of this is you will have uneven layers and it can get runny. If it gets runny then you're going to have to do redo the sanding process again.




[Step 8]

Tools Needed
  • Dupli-Color Wheelpaint
With this step you're basically repeating the priming process, except this time you're actually going to be painting it. You should wait at least an hour after priming before you begin to paint. So again start with a nice thin coat using feathering smooth motions. Just make a light foundation on it and not everything has to be covered in black. Wait 15 minutes and then apply your thicker coat. I normally do 2-3 coats after the foundation.

15 minutes between each coat you do

*TIP*

I will stress this again. DO NOT HOLD IT IN ONE PLACE FOR TOO LONG AND DO NOT MAKE IT TOO THICK. If you splatter you're screwed, and if you make it runny... you're screwed. Sometimes with the splatters you can over it again in the next coat and it will get rid of it. If you've done Nightshading then you know what I mean.

1st layer. Nice and thin. Just the foundation. Not everything is covered.


2-3 more coats later.


[Step 9]

Tools Needed
  • Dupli-Color Wheel Coating
After an hour you're ready for the clear coat. There are a few methods with clear coating something. If you want to leave your rims with a more matte finish. Then you want to hold the clear coat further away and do 1-2 thin coats. If you want yours glossy, then hold it a close about half a foot away and do the same process as the paint and primer. 1 Thin layer first, wait 15 mins and then do a thick one. Rinse and repeat 2-3 more times depending on how glossy you want it.

*TIP*


Blahblah...Don't hold it one place for too long and make sure it doesn't get runny blahblahblah...

Gloss rims 2-3 coats of thick clear coat.


After you're done with the clear coat. Leave your rims alone for a full day before you put them back on and start driving.

*WHAT NOT TO DO*

  • Do not use a paper towel or anything of that sort to wipe off splatters or mistakes
  • Do not use your fingers to try to wipe it off, if anything try a sharp blade to remove runs
  • Do not move around too much or cause too much wind to blow because you will get dust on your rims
  • Do not jack your car up from the center of the side skirts
  • Do not sit in your car when it's jacked
  • Do not paint any earlier than 15 minutes inbetween each coat or it can get runny
  • Do not hold your paint in one spot for too long
*General Things to Remember When Painting*

  • 1st coat should always be nice and thin
  • Don't worry about missed spots or anything not covered in the 1st coat
  • 2nd coat is typically a little thicker and you should be covering everything
  • Do not make the coats too thick if you need to fix something just wait 15 mins for the next coat to fix it
  • Feathering smooth motions
  • Quickly from point A to B but not so fast that it's too thin.

*What To Do If You Screw Up*

Unfortunately there aren't many things you can do the. If you screw up do not use paper towels or anything because that will leave residue which is going to be annoying to get rid of. If it's a splatter try going over it with the next coat if it doesn't work... then you're going to have to sand down, clean with acetone and repaint it.

All this may sound intimidating for some and pose as very difficult... But it really isn't. The most difficult part is the painting technique... and it's just like painting anything else. If you're planning on bringing your rims to a shop to do then give it a shot and try it yourself first! if you really screw up then it doesn't really matter.

Please let me know if there are any questions or if there's anything I can help clarify because I know these pictures weren't meant to be used in DIY's.
 

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Great DIY. I see you didn't cover the barrel of the rims during any of the spraying process. Did you also paint the barrel?

Also, you never use a torque wrench to remove lug nuts. The tool you have in the picture is an axle iron.
 

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NuConceptDesigns
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424 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Great DIY. I see you didn't cover the barrel of the rims during any of the spraying process. Did you also paint the barrel?

Also, you never use a torque wrench to remove lug nuts. The tool you have in the picture is an axle iron.
Thanks for the correction! Had a feeling I got the name wrong. He's right don't use a "Torque Wrench" it can break.
 

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JK-DM!
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1,374 Posts
Great work on the DIY. Question though. Some people would sand with 2000 grit sandpaper and then rinse that off followed by waxing the rims. What do you think?
 

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NuConceptDesigns
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424 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Well if you want smoother texture as the final result then that would be the way to go. But for me personally I like to sand it down with the 240 grit to strip the paint and also to scuff the rims a bit so that the primer will stick better. But I mean if you're using self etching primer then you can go 2000 grit without worrying too much about the chipping, just make sure you don't leave anything unsanded.
 

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I painted my wheels not to long ago. I'll post a few pics after she gets a bath later today.

I found one.. Its not the greatest quality tho..

 

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unce unce unce
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2,854 Posts
great diy man, nice mandals haha
Haha Mandals!
So, I came on the thread to hopefully see some pics of a step-by-step process of you doing so. I didn't see any pictures except where you are taking the wheel off lol! :door:
 

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