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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I thought I'd make a thread for how to replace the serpentine belt for the BK1 3.8L V6 Genesis Coupes in case it helps someone. This is how I did it for my 2012 3.8L Grand Touring. I do not know if this works for the BK2.

Tools
19 mm socket
small socket extension
socket wrench/breaker bar
serpentine belt (P/N: 25212-3C100)
flashlight

Serpentine Belt/Drive Belt Info
The OEM serpentine belt designation is 6PK2475. This is the PK number, not the OEM part number which is 25212-3C100. The 6 refers to the the number of ribs on the belt, the P indicates metric, the K indicates it is an automotive belt, and the final four numbers is the effective length of the belt being 2475 mm. You can use a slightly different size belt, though I am uncertain how much leeway is allowed. I've looked up a few different brands to give you an idea.

Hyundai OEM: 6PK2475; P/N: 25212-3C10 (made by Contitech)
Gates Racing: 6PK2478; P/N: K060975
Bando: 6PK2480; P/N: 6PK2480



Installation

1) Take a picture of the belt in its original configuration before doing anything to confirm proper installation at the end. Give yourself room to work by removing the air assembly above the radiator by unscrewing the 4 Phillips head plastic screws. This is the portion that is upstream of the air filter.

2) Use your wrench or breaker bar with a 19 mm socket (may need small extension as well to allow clearance for turning) on the nut cast onto the tensioner pulley. Pull counterclockwise slightly to release tension. Be careful to not confuse this with the other bolt on the tensioner. You can use your fingers to feel the smooth metal transition of the nut to confirm it is the correct one. Remove belt once you have eased the tension. It should come off easily once you've slipped it off one pulley.





3) Install the drive belt on all the pulleys using the diagram. I added blue arrows to represent the non-ribbed side of the belt to help you orient the belt correctly. Note how the belt is behind the oil dipstick. Make sure the belt is seated firmly on the pulleys inside of the tracks, especially on the bottom 2 pulleys where it can be easy to overlook. The last pulley you do will require you to ease tension so pick one where you can easily turn the wrench with one hand and slip the belt on with the other. Confirm that you have put the belt on correctly with diagram and photos of original installation.



4) Start up car and make sure pulleys are turning correctly. Use old belt to snap someone in the butt.
 

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Nice write up. I'm planning to do this eventually. You might add to your steps, unless I missed it, to remove the plastic air vent mounted on top of radiator (that ties also into air cleaner box). not sure what it is called exactly, but only 4 plastic clips hold it in place IIRC. It takes about 30 seconds to remove and gives you a little extra room to work with.

Im also planning to clean the pulleys when I do mine... probably with carb cleaner and a toothbrush... dry off with air hose before popping the new belt on.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Nice write up. I'm planning to do this eventually. You might add to your steps, unless I missed it, to remove the plastic air vent mounted on top of radiator (that ties also into air cleaner box). not sure what it is called exactly, but only 4 plastic clips hold it in place IIRC. It takes about 30 seconds to remove and gives you a little extra room to work with.

Im also planning to clean the pulleys when I do mine... probably with carb cleaner and a toothbrush... dry off with air hose before popping the new belt on.
Yes, that's exactly right and a good suggestion. It's just 4 phillips head plastic screws that hold in place. I'll edit the post and add it in there.

I'm by no means an expert, but wouldn't carb cleaner not be a great idea on the pulleys surface? I always assumed that stuff was fairly corrosive on plastics/rubbers. Maybe Simple Green would be better?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I jsut changed mine on my 2L with 87k miles. It really did not need changing.
Mine also looked to be in good shape but I went ahead and installed the new one. Anything else you recommend checking while the belt is off? I spun the pulleys and checked for play but didn't notice anything out of the norm.
 

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I would be careful if you use carb cleaner... like you said it can break down certain materials (like plastic and rubber). Should be fine with controlled sprays and using a shop rag to shield surrounding parts. It'll be my first belt change so it may turn out easier to use something safer like simple green instead.
 

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Great write up, removal of the air intake is a must, give you a lot more room and clearer view for the job. Thanks for the belt diagram and the picture of the tensioner pulley, it is easy to be confused on which nut it is. (y)
 
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