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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys I've searched all over the internet and can't find a specific answer to what I'm trying to figure out. I have a 2013 genesis coupe 2.0t auto. I'm about to do the auto to manual trans swap and I'm looking for a stock drive shaft. (Just till I decide to save up for a 1 piece drive shaft) My question is are the bk1 and bk2 OEM manual drive shafts the same and interchangeable? I've looked up part numbers and the numbers are different, slightly, but look the same.

A simple yes or no would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance.

Also when I do the swap I'll put together a detailed step by step for anybody interested. I know there's already one on here but he didn't go over everything.
 

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Membrah
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I don't have definitive answer for you but knowing that the transmissions are interchangeable as far as manual goes, as well as the rear differentials it leads me to believe that the OEM driveshaft should be as well. people swap bk2 transmissions into their BK1 without changing anything else.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ok. That makes sense. I'm buying a used one for now and I noticed bk1 drive shafts are being sold cheaper. Also you see more bk1 drive shafts on the used market than bk2.

Thanks a lot for the reply.
 

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I don't have definitive answer for you but knowing that the transmissions are interchangeable as far as manual goes, as well as the rear differentials it leads me to believe that the OEM driveshaft should be as well. people swap bk2 transmissions into their BK1 without changing anything else.
Usually on most rwd cars, the transmission lengths are different, meaning the drive shafts have to be different lengths.

J33 - most likely it's going to have to be custom.

You can try to find a place that makes them for BMWs. Ask if they can make one with a custom length.

You'll need to measure from flex joint to flex joint (newer BMWs use the same joints; or guibos, as known in the euro world)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
A custom drive shaft would work. But I know for a fact it's not necessary. The oem drive shaft will work. Especially if I get one from a bk2. I just wanted to know if bk1 will also fit being that they're sold cheaper. I found a bk1 drive shaft for $120. I'm gonna try it and see. It'll be about a month or so before I can do anything with it since I work on the road but I'll be sure to come back and share if it'll work or not so anybody in the future will know.
 

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A custom drive shaft would work. But I know for a fact it's not necessary. The oem drive shaft will work. Especially if I get one from a bk2. I just wanted to know if bk1 will also fit being that they're sold cheaper. I found a bk1 drive shaft for $120. I'm gonna try it and see. It'll be about a month or so before I can do anything with it since I work on the road but I'll be sure to come back and share if it'll work or not so anybody in the future will know.
the ends should be interchangeble, but not 100% sure.

At least with the bk1 drive line, you can give the shop making the shaft, the ends to weld on.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I know it's been a while. Just bare with me. I have all the parts I'm just moving very slow with the swap. Being on the road 4 weeks at a time with only a few days home makes for a slow project when trying to spend time with the family too lol.


I've gotten everything but the AT flywheel taken out and I'm about to start cutting the pan underneath the car. I'll come back to it when I go over the swap but for anyone with a 2013+the pan under the car isn't a separate piece so there's no point in scraping the seam sealer to reveal any tac welds. You'll just have to cut the underside out to reveal the pan that the shifter connects to. Also from what I've seen you'll have to cut out the hole for the shifter to come through the car to get bolted in. But I'll go over everything again when I write up a how to based on my experience. I know it'll help 2013+ owners bc of the few differences between the BK1 and BK2. Also I'll put out a parts list of everything needed if you're just wanting stock for stock.
 

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I know SFR has done a ton of auto to 6 speed swaps. If you have any electrical or ecu questions once you're hooked up you can probably message them on FB. i'm surprised you have to cut so much:/
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So I got the swap done. I ended up reusing the same drive shaft from the AT. Which is the one from my car originally. It fit just fine. So I guess the BK2 doesn't need a manual specific drive shaft. Now the only problem I'm having is I can't remove my key unless I unplug the battery and my speedometer doesn't work for some reason.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
No not yet. I won't be home again till 12-23-19 to work on anything. But since I have to disconnect my battery to pull out the key I'm just gonna hook up a battery disconnect and run it to the inside of the car. But I'm wondering if my speedometer not working has anything to do with the fact I'm still running the original Automatic ECU and I have the TCU unplugged. But with rewiring, the only thing I had to do was keep the neutral safety switch plugged up. And then I just zip tied the left over wiring some where so it's not just hanging freely. And then for the reverse lights to work i ran a toggle switch to the inside on my dash next to the traction control button by running an 18 gauge wire from the battery to the toggle and another from the reverse light fuse to the toggle and running a ground wire. Other than that I didn't do any major rewiring.
 

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Okay I’ll check back up after that because my torque converter went and I can’t drive my genesis anymore and wanted to do this swap as well. Any chance you have a parts list?
 

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How does a torque converter die?
If anything, the transmission would go long before the torque converter, if it hasn't been fiddled with.

Torque converters only have 2 moving parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
-Manual transmission
-Flywheel
-Clutch kit
-Clutch Line
-Coiled clutch line(connects from clutch pedal to clutch line)
-Bleeder vavle for clutch line(if you're lucky whoever you buy the transmission from it'll already be on there)
-Clucth Pedal
-Brake pedal (or do what I did and buy the rubber pedal piece and cut the stock auto pedal)
-Clutch Fluid Reservoir ( I used a universal one for a motorcycle)
-Shifter linkage and bracket
-Shifter boot
-Shifter knob
-Center console to hold manual shifter boot
-Drive shaft(I'm putting this in bc idk if a BK1 has a manual specific drive shaft. I have a BK2 2.0t and I just reused my Automatic drive shaft. So I have a spare drive shaft in my shop)
-clutch Master cylinder ( go to Hyundaipartsdeal.com and this will come with the clutch pedal as long as you buy the right part number)

No need for a manual wire harness, I'm still using auto ecu and currently have my tcu unplugged. However you will need to keep the neutral safety switch plugged up so the car will start. If I forgot anything I'll let you know but that's everything off the top of my head that I got to do to the swap. When you do the swap and you have questions feel free to ask me. If we need to move to another platform like Facebook or something I'm willing to. I don't helping out. I did research for a year before taking this on bc I didn't want to mess anything up.
 

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Is there a reason why you didn't use a manual transmission ecu in place of the automatic? I'm curious what the reasoning is in case there are other starting or drivability issues
 

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Is there a reason why you didn't use a manual transmission ecu in place of the automatic? I'm curious what the reasoning is in case there are other starting or drivability issues
chances of ecu pinouts being different, and possible incompatibility with the bcm and other computers.

In the case of immobilizer equipped cars, the ecu bcm and security module have to match to even get the car to turn on.
 
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