Hyundai Genesis Forum banner

1 - 20 of 62 Posts

·
3point8 Performance
Joined
·
2,621 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I built out an SRI the other day just to see what affect it would have on the car. Of course it felt better when the air was colder but once the engine bay was saturated the car was a limp dog (expected).

Over all the car felt snappier with the SRI on (and not heat soaked). I'm sure it will show gains on the dyno but I bet it will increase lap times.

So I put the stock box back on after looking for a way to move the filter to the bumper. Doesn't seem to be a way for the 2014 without permanently removing the washer fluid reservoir which I don't want to do.

Anyway, I started looking at the stock air box and it actually seems really good. It might not be a smooth straight tube, but it can carry some volume. I would even suggest more so than an SRI (I have nothing to back that up).

But I drove around for a while and I can tell that I'm back at the stock air box. Not as snappy on the throttle and obviously not as loud, but I'd rather have performance over noise.

So I started looking at ways to improve the stock air box. I noticed that right where the intake is by the front of the hood, there is a shroud. This shroud has a few tiny slots cut into it. How the hell is any air supposed to get in there? To make it worse, each slot has a louver on the bottom pointing toward the radiator which would, in my opinion, restrict it even further.



So I removed that thing. It wasn't terribly hard. Just take out all of the plastic rivets, lift the shroud from the back and pull up the tabs on the front fender. Look in from the back and there are 6 screws. Remove those then just use a flat head to lift the snaps front the front. It's not too hard.

Anyway, here is the end result



First drive felt snappy just like the SRI did. It didn't feel like stock box anymore.

I'm interested in thoughts and opinions, especially airflow dynamics and to hear results from others who try it.

Note: This won't add anything on the dyno of course, but the dyno isn't everything.
 

·
3point8 Performance
Joined
·
2,621 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
SRI for a NA motor are otherwise know as Hot Air Intakes.
I think if you can fully seal off the filter and the front inlet together it might work. I'm planning out such an enclosure so I can do some IAT testing.

I see the R2C kits for $300. They look really nice, but need to know if the enclosure can keep heat out. Otherwise it's not worth it. They are promoting them as CAI and not SRI which is interesting. But, I don't see any info on IAT's, only dyno numbers.
 

·
3point8 Performance
Joined
·
2,621 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Be sure to log you IATs before and after to see if it's worth the bucks.
Yeah, I'll log with the stock box, just the SRI and then the SRI with the shroud connected to the front inlet. I'll do some 3rd gear pulls on each trial during the hot part of the day.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
90 Posts
Just did this to my 2.0. I def see the car getting more air without. Only downfall I see so far if any is the top of the bumper has less support. And bigger objects like a leaf have better chances of getting to your filter box.
 

·
3point8 Performance
Joined
·
2,621 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Just did this to my 2.0. I def see the car getting more air without. Only downfall I see so far if any is the top of the bumper has less support. And bigger objects like a leaf have better chances of getting to your filter box.
I corrected the bumper support issue by using washers and nut/bolt instead of the plastic rivet. That helps keep it steady.

I'm not too concerned about objects with the way the louvers on the grill are angled, they'd hit the radiator like the do now. Of course, there is still a chance, but they'll end up in the bottom of the stock air box or the shroud if running a proper SRI.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
90 Posts
I corrected the bumper support issue by using washers and nut/bolt instead of the plastic rivet. That helps keep it steady.

I'm not too concerned about objects with the way the louvers on the grill are angled, they'd hit the radiator like the do now. Of course, there is still a chance, but they'll end up in the bottom of the stock air box or the shroud if running a proper SRI.
Where exactly did you put the nuts and bolts?
 

·
3point8 Performance
Joined
·
2,621 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Not sure if yours is different than mine, but if you look at the 2nd photo in my original post, there are two slotted tabs coming off of the black bumper. These tabs sit over a post and inside of the post go the rivets. When the rivets are in, you can see there is a gap between the top of the bumper tab and the bottom of the rivet head. So I put some washers around the post to close the gap and then I put the bolts through the post.

If you look at the 2nd photo, on the left side of the hood latch there are only 2 screws while the right side there are 4. Those 2 screws are what the bumper was held down with when the shroud was on, but now there is a gap, so you need to just fill the gap to keep the bumper from sliding back. The rivets on mine were actually strong enough to hold it in place so you might try that first.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
90 Posts
Not sure if yours is different than mine, but if you look at the 2nd photo in my original post, there are two slotted tabs coming off of the black bumper. These tabs sit over a post and inside of the post go the rivets. When the rivets are in, you can see there is a gap between the top of the bumper tab and the bottom of the rivet head. So I put some washers around the post to close the gap and then I put the bolts through the post.

If you look at the 2nd photo, on the left side of the hood latch there are only 2 screws while the right side there are 4. Those 2 screws are what the bumper was held down with when the shroud was on, but now there is a gap, so you need to just fill the gap to keep the bumper from sliding back. The rivets on mine were actually strong enough to hold it in place so you might try that first.
OK I see thanks.
 

·
3point8 Performance
Joined
·
2,621 Posts
Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Did some FWY driving today. It was 98* outside. The car felt awesome! 2 & 3 gear downshifts were responsive and did not have a hesitation like before where it just felt like the motor was going through the motions, but not actually doing anything. I also noticed the oil temps were slightly lower than before even though it was hotter outside.

Driving in 6th gear at low rpm is better as well. I can cruise along at 2k and still accelerate when needed with out bogging down.

I think this mod and the Phenolic spacer compliment each other.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
73 Posts
I tried this also. Thought it made a difference, but didn't like the sag in the front bumper. Thought about cutting larger holes in the plastic piece, but decided it wasn't worth modifying the stock piece. Like your idea about using screws to reinforce the bumper. May give this a try again.
 

·
3point8 Performance
Joined
·
2,621 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
I tried this also. Thought it made a difference, but didn't like the sag in the front bumper. Thought about cutting larger holes in the plastic piece, but decided it wasn't worth modifying the stock piece. Like your idea about using screws to reinforce the bumper. May give this a try again.
I too thought about cutting holes but decided the hassle from the dealer wouldn't be worth it, plus I might want to go back at some point.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
i have a K&n air filter on stock box can we seal the box where the filter seats there are big holes in it i feel like if we seal those we can pull more air from outs ide the engine bay but i dont know much about why the holes are on the bottom of that box
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,775 Posts
I wonder if this mod will decreases cooling, since air will go the path of least resistance - up and around the snorkle.

But if you don't have problems with running hot, it should not cause isues.

Suprized that you could tell the diferance, seeing how air box has second opening for air to get in, pointed at the hedlight...then again is not that large.
 

·
3point8 Performance
Joined
·
2,621 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
I wonder if this mod will decreases cooling, since air will go the path of least resistance - up and around the snorkle.

But if you don't have problems with running hot, it should not cause isues.

Suprized that you could tell the diferance, seeing how air box has second opening for air to get in, pointed at the hedlight...then again is not that large.
I have not seen any signs of increased heat (or decreased cooling). In fact, I've seen on average lower oil temps so I'd venture to say that it improves cooling. I only have anecdotal evidence as I'm relying on the stock oil temp gauge until I get my AEM installed, but overall the oil temp under normal driving is lower than before and it takes far less time to cool down after a hard run. I do pay attention to the oil temp gauge so familiar with what it normally is under certain conditions.

I'm not really concerned about the hole, but I do plan to do some tests to see if it affects IAT's (eventually).
 

·
shorttrack
Joined
·
1,641 Posts
I cut the thin vent slots open
 

·
shorttrack
Joined
·
1,641 Posts
I cut the thin vent slots open so as to bring in more air without having the front gap
I sealed the front inward rubber hood seal strip to the front fascia seal strip using weather stripping to seal the end to end off so that when you close the hood it act as a cold air inlet from the frontal pressure created by driving at speed ,slight ram air effect .One problem ,on the 2013 -up ,the Air filter box has a opening facing the right side fender that sucks in under hood temps . For this I made a hinged weighted aluminum flap that will allow a initial gulp of air and will close upon frontal pressure at speeds .I simulated this by putting a blower in front of the inlet snorkel while my wife took the RPM's up to 4,000 - at Said Rpm the flap opened up ,I turned on the blower and it closed .My under temps are not that high as I have a vented carbon fiber VIS racing HOOD .Might add I am using a k&N race filter in the air box .




Hope to have pics or vid this weekend .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,775 Posts
i have a K&n air filter on stock box can we seal the box where the filter seats there are big holes in it i feel like if we seal those we can pull more air from outs ide the engine bay but i dont know much about why the holes are on the bottom of that box
The neck of the "snorkle" is too narrow to supply air by it self. Closing second opening in air box will negatively affect higher rpms power.
 

·
shorttrack
Joined
·
1,641 Posts
The neck of the "snorkle" is too narrow to supply air by it self. Closing second opening in air box will negatively affect top end power.
Measured My 2014 3.8 snorkel's neck,the cross width(section) is right at 3.5'' plus inches .The average cold air tube used by after market is what ? You guessed it ,3.5'' .As I stated , sealing the ends of the seal strips ( Snorkel and fascia ) and opening the slotted vents you have higher pressure of cooler air coming from the front .It is pretty straight forward . Slight "ram" effect with side opening closed ,hence my installed hinged flap .My gen runs & pulls very well on the top without the slightest hint of falling nose over .I would believe the OEM filter is restricting air and the hole in the side of the air box allows hot/thin engine bay air into the intake tract , keeping top end HP down more so than the cross section of the snorkel neck .I run a K&N, side seal ,hinged flap, & it = no problems .I do believe the side hole in the air box is more for a sudden hit of air volume on the bottom .
 
1 - 20 of 62 Posts
Top