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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So long story short, I most likely spun a rod bearing, for sure tanked the motor. When I got my tune I went the Joe cheap route and did not get a spare ecu. Now my question is, since I have a push start and the ecu is paired to the vin and I can't get a used one.... can I buy a new one? Or can that only be done by a dealer? Trying to put car back to stock to take to dealer for warrantee, but from everything I'm reading it's looking like I effed myself with the ecu. Any help is greatly appreciated.
 

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How would the dealer know if it were tuned? I don't think there's a way to tell, is there?

If you don't mind me asking, what do you think caused the rod bearing to spin? Aren't you one of those that got the TCU tune for the 8 speed auto? I'm going to get that, but I'm opting to NOT have the rev-limit raised much. Maybe 6,900 RPM...but no more.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes I did get the tune and was hooning around. But I was about a quart of oil low (our cars apparently drink a bunch of oil, wish I woulda known that), the common consensus is it was since I was low on oil. And the dealer would absolutely know if the ecu was tuned three second they plugged the car into their computers.
 

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Wow...do you think this would've happened if the Revs were kept under 7,000? I've heard that over 7k generates a lot of heat and is really hard on the engine. I'm trying to avoid a major failure by keeping the limit to 6,900. Maybe I'll have them set it at 6,700.

What brand & weight of oil were you running? I'm guessing a higher weight would be a good idea (10w-40?) if you're going to wrap it up that high. Any details you could offer would be greatly appreciated...I'm sure no one wants this to happen to them.

Sorry you have to deal with this...that really sucks. Would make me sick if that happened to me.
 

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Also, BTR told me they'd flash my ECU back to stock for $150. If you mail it in, I'm sure they could do it within a week.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So multiple things one the oil. I was using redline brand 5w20. I was led to believe that redline ran a tad thicker than advertised and that the 20 weight would perform better. And looking at the oil temp gauge it appeared that it was. I was always under the impression from all my other cars (muscle cars) that 10w40 would be better if you beat on the car, but I was told otherwise for these motors. Also I didn't realize how quickly our cars burned oil, I was still above the L on the dipstick, but was in total a quart low. I think all things combined along with doing donuts and the oil slushing around may have done it. Also I only have 12,000 miles on the motor so who knows, could be a weak motor and a warrantee issue. But once it's all fixed and put back together I will be checking oil minimum once a week and running a 10w40 German oil like I did in the rest of my cars.
 

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Dealer can tell if it's tune by looking at the ROM bin checksum.

What mods were on the engine?

EDIT: and to the original question, you can, in theory, use a new ecu. ecu needs to be set in calibration mode though, which you can only do by using a hyundai diagnostic software.
Part of the reason why sfr can sell you an tuned ecu without having your car or ecu, non push start, or push start.

Last I recall the laptop, software, license, and whatever peripherals, was going for, I think, 5 grand US. But thats just so you can diagnose, set states and flash OEM roms. As far as what's used to actually tune the roms, I can only make assumptions.

If dealer deems it not under warranty, would be cheaper to just buy a used one and either pay to have someone to swap it in, or do it yourself. The genesis coupe is probably one of the easiest cars to swap engines in(in recent years) IMO.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Mods were/ are cat-back, test pipes, bored tb, can, ecu tuned by btr, and tcu tuned by btr. I've herd same thing that replacing the whole thing is cheaper than rebuilding. But at the moment I'm trying to price out a rebuild with forged internals.
 

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Mods were/ are cat-back, test pipes, bored tb, can, ecu tuned by btr, and tcu tuned by btr. I've herd same thing that replacing the whole thing is cheaper than rebuilding. But at the moment I'm trying to price out a rebuild with forged internals.
To giving you an idea of what to expect, with the 2.0, when I blew my first block (snapped conrod), dealer quoted me 9 grand for a short block, not even a complete engine. bought a complete one for a grand with only 127 miles on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Mods were/ are cat-back, test pipes, bored tb, can, ecu tuned by btr, and tcu tuned by btr. I've herd same thing that replacing the whole thing is cheaper than rebuilding. But at the moment I'm trying to price out a rebuild with forged internals.
To giving you an idea of what to expect, with the 2.0, when I blew my first block (snapped conrod), dealer quoted me 9 grand for a short block, not even a complete engine. bought a complete one for a grand with only 127 miles on it.
Oh ya I've herd the same thing. That if warrantee doesn't cover it, it's an arm and a leg through the dealer.
 

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Oh ya I've herd the same thing. That if warrantee doesn't cover it, it's an arm and a leg through the dealer.
Yeah, 9 grand on an car with a blown engine, which they might quote another 4 grand for complete replacement heads, once they crack it open.... At that point might as well go through insurance which will probably deem it totaled, because of "current" value of the blown car vs the cost to repair it.

Best bet is to have a shop replace the engine. They have the tools (or know where to borrow them) and are fork lift/fork jack friendly. Usually shipping companies charge extra when delivering to a residential area. At most, it should be about a 5 hour job... unless they have issues with exhaust bolts :p

Tip when buying engines in general, make sure that it comes with the crank pulley, and if possible the flywheel/flex plate. Both are bolted to the crank when they balance it at the factory and why you should NEVER buy lightened crank pulleys for any engine.
 

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I think 5w20 oil would definitely perform better, because it's not as thick as 30 or 40 weight....but the trade off is lower protection against wear. I think our engines are very tight tolerance and you get more power & gas mileage with a 20 weight oil. But, if you're revving it a lot, you'll definitely want the thicker oil. That's what I've always believed, anyway.

Good luck with the dealer...I'm interested to find out what happens, so keep us posted.

And, if you haven't yet, you should call BTR and ask if they can flash your ECU back to stock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I think 5w20 oil would definitely perform better, because it's not as thick as 30 or 40 weight....but the trade off is lower protection against wear. I think our engines are very tight tolerance and you get more power & gas mileage with a 20 weight oil. But, if you're revving it a lot, you'll definitely want the thicker oil. That's what I've always believed, anyway.

Good luck with the dealer...I'm interested to find out what happens, so keep us posted.

And, if you haven't yet, you should call BTR and ask if they can flash your ECU back to stock.
I will definitely post back once I know, bit I'm hoping I can rebuild with stronger parts more than anything
 
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