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i will give it a go... since im running rich i feel like im in a good position to try this. if anything goes wrong will it just go into limp or boost cut? seems almost too easy to be true lol
It shouldn't go wrong cause you have a SFR tune, they learn and adjust, their parameters are much broader than the stock tune.
On the stock tune anything over 17 PSI would get an overboost CEL.
Believe it or not, working on turbos is easy, especially this car. You have so much room under this hood. Basically a tune, an intake and an exhaust is all you need, everything else is icing on the cake.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
i will give it a go... since im running rich i feel like im in a good position to try this. if anything goes wrong will it just go into limp or boost cut? seems almost too easy to be true lol
It shouldn't go wrong cause you have a SFR tune, they learn and adjust, their parameters are much broader than the stock tune.
On the stock tune anything over 17 PSI would get an overboost CEL.
Believe it or not, working on turbos is easy, especially this car. You have so much room under this hood. Basically a tune, an intake and an exhaust is all you need, everything else is icing on the cake.
well i did 2 turns and its holding 15 in 4th and 14 in 3rd till about 5k so thats a good improvement. should i go one more FULL turn? drove it about 20 miles after...
 

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well i did 2 turns and its holding 15 in 4th and 14 in 3rd till about 5k so thats a good improvement. should i go one more FULL turn? drove it about 20 miles after...
Usually it's the lower gears like 1st and 2nd at full throttle acceleration off a dead stop where you can see what you are peaking and what you are holding. Do some runs from a dead stop and see what numbers you get before adjusting the wastegate arm any more. Usually the top gears like 4th and 5th in your Auto will not boost as much as the lower ones. I bet you anything you are boosting around 17-18 PSI in 1st gear. The fan must cycle once before the ECU allows you to full boost, otherwise it's limited to 10-12 PSI.
 

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well i did 2 turns and its holding 15 in 4th and 14 in 3rd till about 5k so thats a good improvement. should i go one more FULL turn? drove it about 20 miles after...
Usually it's the lower gears like 1st and 2nd at full throttle acceleration off a dead stop where you can see what you are peaking and what you are holding. Do some runs from a dead stop and see what numbers you get before adjusting the wastegate arm any more. Usually the top gears like 4th and 5th in your Auto will not boost as much as the lower ones. I bet you anything you are boosting around 17-18 PSI in 1st gear. The fan must cycle once before the ECU allows you to full boost, otherwise it's limited to 10-12 PSI.
3 turns from the wastegate, from a dead stop I'm seeing a peek of 14.5 tapering down to 12 in first and second gear. in 3rd or 4th gear I can hit 15.5 and hold to 14.5. this is after a fresh reset and driving the car so it's definitely warmed up. I have a new intercooler coming in Monday so I will try to install that and see if it's the intercooler. what are your guys vacuum levels at idle?
 

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3 turns from the wastegate, from a dead stop I'm seeing a peek of 14.5 tapering down to 12 in first and second gear. in 3rd or 4th gear I can hit 15.5 and hold to 14.5. this is after a fresh reset and driving the car so it's definitely warmed up. I have a new intercooler coming in Monday so I will try to install that and see if it's the intercooler. what are your guys vacuum levels at idle?
That's actually pretty good for an Automatic with a FMIC, because you loose about 2 PSI with the bigger intercooler. Which FMIC did you install?
Do you have an intake? The stock intake box with the flexible Accordian snorkel is very restrictive, slows down the air flow really bad.
Vacuum, my boost gauge only goes up to 30, but it passes that, so I'm guessing it's around 40 or so.
 

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That's actually pretty good for an Automatic with a FMIC, because you loose about 2 PSI with the bigger intercooler. Which FMIC did you install?
Do you have an intake? The stock intake box with the flexible Accordian snorkel is very restrictive, slows down the air flow really bad.
Vacuum, my boost gauge only goes up to 30, but it passes that, so I'm guessing it's around 40 or so.
I did custom 2.5" piping... probably should have did 2 or 2.25... but i went with a jdm intercooler and I just got done purchasing the mishimoto z-line, which has a great reputation. if that doesn't produce results i'll try a stiff BOV spring just to be sure. no way there is a boost leak... i went overboard checking.

i guess i'll chalk it up to the fact that the car is automatic, and jay said the boost levels are kind of whacky on them, even when using manual mode. i put 93 in my car because i cant get 91 in my area so i should have asked for a 93 tune but...
 

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I did custom 2.5" piping... probably should have did 2 or 2.25... but i went with a jdm intercooler and I just got done purchasing the mishimoto z-line, which has a great reputation. if that doesn't produce results i'll try a stiff BOV spring just to be sure. no way there is a boost leak... i went overboard checking.

i guess i'll chalk it up to the fact that the car is automatic, and jay said the boost levels are kind of whacky on them, even when using manual mode. i put 93 in my car because i cant get 91 in my area so i should have asked for a 93 tune but...

2.5" piping is pretty much standard. Yea, you lost a little boost because of the air flow slowed down a little, but you increased air volume. The JDM intercoolers on ebay and Amazon are hit or miss, most don't have enough cooling fins to lower the IAT that much. Compare the stock BK1 intercooler to a JDM one, look at the fins. The stock BK1 intercooler also has the fan helping it suck air through the fins, it might be small but it's very efficient up to about 275 WHP, then you will need a bigger one. Hopefully the Mishimoto will be better. Using a stronger BOV spring will help it keep it closed until you get off the throttle, but it's the wastegate adjustment that will really affect your boost level. Heck, back in the early 80's the wastegate was actuated by vacuum, not a solenoid, now that was a lot of trial and error and most turbo cars back then had an actual boost gauge from the factory.

Putting 93 when it's tuned for 91 is fine, the ECU will adjust the mapping. But, you can't put 91 in a 93 tune. That's my problem, here in NY we have 93 everywhere, but some states don't, especially out west. BTW, another thing is use Top Tier Gas like Shelly, BP, Sunoco, Mobil, Exxon, Etc. DO NOT USE Speedway, it is the crappiest gas you can get and most of their stations do not have filters in the pumps.
 

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I did custom 2.5" piping... probably should have did 2 or 2.25... but i went with a jdm intercooler and I just got done purchasing the mishimoto z-line, which has a great reputation. if that doesn't produce results i'll try a stiff BOV spring just to be sure. no way there is a boost leak... i went overboard checking.

i guess i'll chalk it up to the fact that the car is automatic, and jay said the boost levels are kind of whacky on them, even when using manual mode. i put 93 in my car because i cant get 91 in my area so i should have asked for a 93 tune but...

2.5" piping is pretty much standard. Yea, you lost a little boost because of the air flow slowed down a little, but you increased air volume. The JDM intercoolers on ebay and Amazon are hit or miss, most don't have enough cooling fins to lower the IAT that much. Compare the stock BK1 intercooler to a JDM one, look at the fins. The stock BK1 intercooler also has the fan helping it suck air through the fins, it might be small but it's very efficient up to about 275 WHP, then you will need a bigger one. Hopefully the Mishimoto will be better. Using a stronger BOV spring will help it keep it closed until you get off the throttle, but it's the wastegate adjustment that will really affect your boost level. Heck, back in the early 80's the wastegate was actuated by vacuum, not a solenoid, now that was a lot of trial and error and most turbo cars back then had an actual boost gauge from the factory.

Putting 93 when it's tuned for 91 is fine, the ECU will adjust the mapping. But, you can't put 91 in a 93 tune. That's my problem, here in NY we have 93 everywhere, but some states don't, especially out west. BTW, another thing is use Top Tier Gas like Shelly, BP, Sunoco, Mobil, Exxon, Etc. DO NOT USE Speedway, it is the crappiest gas you can get and most of their stations do not have filters in the pumps.
the according to the specs the mishimoto intercooler is about an inch shorter length width and height than the one I have on there right now.. (core size) so that is actually going to help if anything.

dude your full of good info,. thanks a lot for every thing
 

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Hopefully the Mishimoto core has more fins, that will lower the IAT's and you will notice an increase in power. Bigger isn't always better, more efficiency is better.

Thanks, I'm 50 years old, started working on turbos in the early 80's, my older cousin was a Mopar Mechanic, taught me a lot.
 

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Hopefully the Mishimoto core has more fins, that will lower the IAT's and you will notice an increase in power. Bigger isn't always better, more efficiency is better.

Thanks, I'm 50 years old, started working on turbos in the early 80's, my older cousin was a Mopar Mechanic, taught me a lot.
so quick update, the mishimoto came in today and viola! hit 16.5psi and held 15+ to about 6k. definitely big improvement. i feel like I'm actually getting that boost to the ground finally!
 

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Sounds like you hit the right combination. Sometimes too big is too much. Our stock turbo is a TD04, it's a small turbo designed for up to 300HP and spools up pretty quickly. Back in 1988, Mopar on the Turbo 1 motor, replaced the stock larger Garrett T3 which was a nice size turbo with the smaller Mitsubishi TE04 (which was a TD04 that bolted onto a Garrett flange), it made more torque and spooled faster but in order to match the HP of the Garrett, boost was increased by 3psi. My point is that the JDM ebay/Amazon intercoolers are really designed for the amount of air that a Garrett T3/T4 and Mitsubishi TD05 can push through it and aren't as efficient because of the fewer cooling fins.
 

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Sounds like you hit the right combination. Sometimes too big is too much. Our stock turbo is a TD04, it's a small turbo designed for up to 300HP and spools up pretty quickly. Back in 1988, Mopar on the Turbo 1 motor, replaced the stock larger Garrett T3 which was a nice size turbo with the smaller Mitsubishi TE04 (which was a TD04 that bolted onto a Garrett flange), it made more torque and spooled faster but in order to match the HP of the Garrett, boost was increased by 3psi. My point is that the JDM ebay/Amazon intercoolers are really designed for the amount of air that a Garrett T3/T4 and Mitsubishi TD05 can push through it and aren't as efficient because of the fewer cooling fins.

that's funny, ebay is flooded with t/3/t4 turbo kits and parts, it's kind of ridiculous. i remember my audi tt had the k03 turbo, was pumping 19psi and it was a small turbo as well, but a torque monster lol they aren't designed to hold that to redline though... german cars are a little weird how they make boost and taper.

hit 17psi this morning so i'm guessing the car is still learning too. it held 16 to about 5500rpm in 4th, i'm actually impressed with its performance.

my next thing to figure out is the vacuum routing with my cold side bov setup. i've monkey'd with coming off Intake Manifold before the check valves and capping the solenoid and boost comes really strong and much faster but the venting to atmosphere part is not right. funny how so many ppl run off the IM with no issues. seems like the solenoid tells the bov to open and that's the part that gets froggy with the solenoid capped. different bov hose sizes seem to have a different effect too.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
What's the froggy symptoms with the venting?
the valve will shut and hold boost when i run off the vacuum line, but when i left off the gas it's not opening fast enough or just fails to vent. The same exact preload/spring setup works just find when using the solenoid so that's what im doing now, but i'd love to figure out how to run it off the IM because it's noticably faster how boost comes on. is TOO MUCH vacuum a possibility?

i've tried going behind and in front of both check valves to see if it was any different but not really..
using a greddy type S, single spring mod (large spring) with NGR internals. single spring holds find off solenoid, but when i ran off the intake manifold i would have to use BOTH springs that come with it or it would stay open when building boost.
 

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Sounds like not enough vacuum. Be sure to have a hose that matches the size of the BOV nipple. I tee off the 3/8" (10mm) line coming off the back of the TB.
funny thing is that usually it the bov is too tight when run on the solenoid it would flutter... but there is no fluttering even. kind of weird

and i'm running the same hose that i run off the solenoid. i've actually tried a larger hose and T fitting but that didn't really net any result.


also, the type s in some scenarios was recommended to add a vacuum line to the lower port... it has an additional connection nipple
 

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When you run it off the solenoid the ECU will sometimes activate the BOV to regulate boost when you are still on the throttle. There is an internal vacuum chamber built into the intake manifold that stores vacuum when the manifold is under pressure. IM vacuum is on or off.
 

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When you run it off the solenoid the ECU will sometimes activate the BOV to regulate boost when you are still on the throttle. There is an internal vacuum chamber built into the intake manifold that stores vacuum when the manifold is under pressure. IM vacuum is on or off.
if boost comes on stronger i would think that its operationally ok, but if it's not opening up correctly is it because the car is supposed to control it via ecu/solenoid? i know this topic has been talked about a million times already lol


also, i use my bluetooth obd2 app to track vacuum and boost, and it seems like i had MORE vacuum off the IM which seems good, but the actual opening functionality was not correct.
 

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Like our good buddy Red said, the best vacuum source to use is the large hose that goes to the black and white check valve. I used a 3/8", 3/8", 1/4" tee BEFORE the black and white check valve. It has so much more vacuum than the little line by the green and white check valve. When I used the vacuum line by the green and white check valve, I was getting so much BOV flutter. I bet you anything you tee'd after the check valve, if you do that, you get no vacuum. Is this a real Greddy BOV or one of the Ebay/Amazon knock offs, cause they rarely work right. You're better off with a Kinugawa BOV, it's the same BOV as the Forge and you can get it for around $75 on Ebay and it mounts on the stock turbo on the hot side, so it's releasing hot air into the atmosphere and not going into the intercooler and sitting there like a cold side BOV does. Yea, I'm probably going to hear it from the guys who say a cold side BOV is better, but think about it, releasing from the hot side, you have less hot charged air to release, releasing from the cold side you have a lot more to release and it's colder so it doesn't expel as quickly.
 
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