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I'd rather do it myself
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18,268 Posts
For the 2L.

The bracket should be about 7" tall. That would give enough wiggle room for the holes to drill and clear the coil cover but still be below the strut bar. Looks like it's 26&1/4" from the strut bar mounting stud to the bracket.

The engine lift hook also has a heat shield for the exhaust cam sensor connector. That will limit the width at the bolt hole on the bottom. I'm using a 1x1x1/8" angle iron. The bottom mounting hole needs to be just slightly to the outside so the heat shield fits without any interference. I drilled mine on center and it will slightly deform the heat shield when tightening down the bolt.
 

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I'd rather do it myself
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18,268 Posts
I found some garage door spring safety cable in my garage. It already has a loop on one end, the other end has a flat steel piece with holes in it already. I drilled both holes out to .403" (Y bit) and the with a file elongated the one towards the engine so they slip over the strut bar mounting studs.

The cable is 10' long so I still need to cut it and put a loop on the brace end. You could just loop one end over the stud closest to the engine too I guess.



Still need a eye ring and a cable clamp. This piece of angle iron is a bit too long at 7&1/4". It's 1x1x1/8" cold rolled.

 

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1,687 Posts
I wonder if hood strut braket (on the shock tower ) is strong enough to use as cable brace.
My Luxon strut bar has its own hood strut bracket, so OEM bracket is not used.

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I'd rather do it myself
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18,268 Posts
I wonder if hood strut braket (on the shock tower ) is strong enough to use as cable brace.
My Luxon strut bar has its own hood strut bracket, so OEM bracket is not used.

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It maybe. The idea is to just allow a bit of slack so there is not tension unless you give it the gas and the motor tries to move. The small amount of slack stops the inertia build up and reduces the shock load on the cable, brackets and threaded mount.when hammering the gas. Having the cable in a 90* pull too is important as this also reduces the amount of initial movement.
 

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Nice, now all you need is some Simple Green and a bucket of water.

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Those fail overtime and alow some engine movement even when new - as it is a dampened.

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28 Posts
A cheap one on ebay is 30 dollars shipped, and you can replace the oil, or add thicker or thinner weight oil for vibration control. IMHO it looks a lot better than a built in engine hoist :p
 

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Cone Killa
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375 Posts
20 dollars? Im going to order a damper right now, and will be back with the results. I have a feeling that it would give the same amount of rigidity with less cabin vibration. But i will be back with the results.
I don't know how long or how well a $20 engine damper will do, but I'm interested to hear your results. And yes, while the leash isn't exactly pretty, it gets the job done for very little. I don't think that's too hard to understand, but I can see why you would be deterred from it, from a visual standpoint.

Good work Red, looks solid.

I've got mine on the way from titan, so I'll be sure to report back as the BK1 3.8 guinea pig.
 

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I'd rather do it myself
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18,268 Posts
The advantage of a cable or chain is it should only be tight when really loaded but not at idle or normal cruising, at idle it should have slack. I'll drive the old girl tonight and take along some wrenches in case it needs loosened up for noise free cruising.
 

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3point8 Performance
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2,614 Posts
Discussion Starter #98
Ah, I was thinking the bracket was on the rear of the block like the 3.8. I see what you mean now. I'll have to give some thought to the 2.0, but red's setup is probably the most optimal, ugly or not.

Update: I have seen some issues with the installs and I'm not sure why. I test fit them all on my car and clearance was great, but the ones I sent out are really close to the brake reservoir (though not touching) and also the ECU connector. With all this new info I'm going to recuse the length of the bracket to shave weight and make it simpler to fab, and I'll be moving the cable hole so it's not so close to the ECU connector. I'll be setting up a new jig too so the bolt holes are perfect to prevent the proximity issues with the brake reservoir.

The feedback I've received so far has been great. Just waiting to hear back about the BK1, but tomorrow I'll be starting a new batch of brackets.

Anyone know where I can source the brackets that go around the struct tower? I'd like to be able to help people without a struct brace.
 

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I'd rather do it myself
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18,268 Posts
That bracket that mounts to the strut bar looks like awful thin metal? You sure that's gonna hold a swaying motor? Lol
I'll see. It is just what I had laying around. If I were to make one with purchased parts I would have used some thicker metal at the strut bar end and next size up in cable.

But if there is little slack there is little inertia built up with a quick snap of the cable by going WOT.

I actually think the lack of a thimble on the cable loop at the strut bar end will be where it fails by fraying the cable.

That being said there is no extra vibration except when using a lot of throttle. This is a great hooning mod....
 
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