That's the crank case vent hose. Yes you can technically put a breather on the nipple on the crank case since unlike the PCV side it's an open port but why do you want to do that?
A few reasons, but I have mine on a breather because I'm spraying WM before the tb.That's the crank case vent hose. Yes you can technically put a breather on the nipple on the crank case since unlike the PCV side it's an open port but why do you want to do that?
You can ditch the hose and put the breather on the valve cover nipple where I circled.^Thanks
I added the breather and plugged up the k&n intake since idk what happened to that piece.
On bk1 it's part of the MAF. On bk2 it's combined with the baro sensor on the side of the air box (or your intake tube)Can someone tell me where air temp sensor is located (3.8l)?
The only sensor on manifold is pressure sensor. I have both IMs off ...
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Yes this is true - per logic it should be noticeable before the air temp starts to rise, still I'm thinking about that offset table someone mentioned here. Basically if the software is already compensating for slow sensor and heat creap - then adding an exact mesuring sensor will throw that table off.I think it's worth it. Though I'm never ambient on a warmed motor. I usually run 15f-20f above. If i hammer it then it goes to ambient for a couple shifts then starts to rise. My biggest problem here is air to the IC due to the bumper.
The OE is encased in plastic and this does slow down the reaction
Does it do anything? I've never had it on the dyno but logic would say I get a bit more timing and fuel compared to stock.