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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Because no one wants to approve my build thread, imma post here.

Last thing I worked on was the head I think a year ago.

ate away at the head in the lobe travel areas to allow my tomei 11mm lift cams to fit.
I made a jig out of some pipe, a dremel, and some nylon spacers.
I still have to grind off the little lip that's left, because there isn't enough clearance for the jig to rotate that far.
Been thinking about bolting the head to some particle board, and using a milling bit in my drill press and going at it slow as I can. (shouldn't use a drill press this way. "do as I say, not as I do" situation)
Keep in mind this is one of my spare engine, so if something happens when it's running, I'm not too worried.

Pic from last time I worked on it.




So recently, been working on the bottom end.
A while ago, I checked the clearances for the mains, to factory spec. I didn't have my APR main studs at the time.
So, clearanced to 0.0012 inches on all the mains at 23ft/lbs and 120* turn, after that it sat for a while. (yes, checked with bore gauge and micrometer. then used plastigage)

factory tolerance is 0.0008 - 0.0015 inches (no one makes plastigage that will measure below 0.001, that I can find)


ARP main studs need to be torqued to 70ft/lbs, thats about 2 to 3 times the force of the factory main bolts.
I do all that with plastigage, and measures to 0.001.
I take it apart and clean it up, oil it, and put it back together. Crank won't turn. These are original bearings; block, crank, and bearings all match (FYI kids, minimum spec for plastigage, means it won't spread further than that)

So I calculated what those bearings are and order looser bearings. Rinse and repeat, same thing, 0.001 plastigage clearance, and still won't turn freely.

Since I couldn't find aftermarket bearings at the time for the new clearances I need, I sanded the back side of the bearings with some 600 grit. My dad taught me this trick a while ago.
I used a sharpy to paint the back side of the bearings and sanded them forward and back, not along the circumference. until the sharpy ink is removed.
Rinse and repeat, until it was the clearance that I was happy with (wanted it a little looser, but I was done with working on it). Measured with a bore gauge again to check if my finagiling made it out-of-round. All came back good.

FYI, get the name brand plastigage. The Clevite brand is a PITA to get off. both do the same job.

Clearances
1.

2.

3.

4.

5.


Cleaned, oiled, torqued, and this is what I ended up with this

 

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Discussion Starter #2
Next on the list to to get some conrods and pistons, but might be a while. Besides that, I have almost everything to put it back together.

I would like a BK2 head to try to use if possible.
IIRC, it has an upper chain guide that bolts in above/between the cam gears, where the BK1 head doesn't.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
This post is help others translate what bearings to use.

On the front of your crank are some numbers/letters stamped to it, like so



Red are the main journal diameters.

Blue is conrod journal diameters

Brown... Not sure.



On the block, on the exhaust side there are 2 rows of letters. 1 row (4 letters) is for the cylinder bore diameter. Other is for the mains diameter.
Mine is on an engine stand ATM, upside down in the pic. With the engine not flipped, it reads from the bottom, up.
In the pic, left is the bottom of the block, right = top
1. B
2. C
3. A
4. B
5. B


This shows what the letters mean (from BK1 service manuals)



This what the numbers for the main journals on the front of the crank, mean




These are the thicknesses/ designations for the mains bearings.
These are done by color, because on the factory bearings, they put paint on the side edge of them




This shows how to choose the correct bearings.

column 1: number on the front of the cranks.
column 2: letters on the side of the block
column 3: which bearing to choose



So on mine, using main #1 , cranks has the number 2 stamped, block shows the letter B

So 2 + B = no color bearing, which is thickness of 2.02mm~2.023mm (0.0795~0.0796 )inch

Translating all that, my factory bearings are the following with the factory specs

1. None
2. Black
3. Green
4. Green
5. Green

The ones I ordered are

Green
None
Yellow
Yellow
Yellow

With the ARP studs, are were still too tight. And since there aren't any, lower than a yellow, I decided to modify them.

My tip is, if possible go 2 sizes lower or even 3, if you're going to use ARP main studs.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I've finally finished grinding my head yesterday.

I just used the dremel by hand for the last bits of it. Didn't do this in the first place, because I was afraid of slipping.

Not as clean as I would have liked, but it will do.

For those that don't know, for a 11 lift cam about 2~2.5mm thick of material needs to be removed from the lobe path.
You have to do this 16 times. That's a lot of aluminum to grind off.

Exhaust side didn't have any really issue.

Intake side, had some issues with grinding the last bit off (look at the first pic), That is what I ground by hand yesterday.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Oh, forgot to add in what things to keep in mind when using APR hardware.

The stud replacements for OEM bolts (mains studs, head studs etc) ARE NOT suppose to be bottomed out in a blind hole.

Think about it, the OEM bolts don't touch the bottom of their holes.

If you run the ARP studs all the way down, you are trapping and compressing air between the bottom of the holes and the stud. This has cause cracks in the block on other engine builds after a few good heat cycles (not the BK motors yet, AFAIK)

What I like to do is run them all the way down, and then back the studs out about 1 full turn (main caps). 1 full turn moves the stud about 2~3mm

If you look at the vid in my first post, you can see how the ARP studs and nuts sit. these are torqued down.
Maybe I should back the first one on the right out about 1/4 ~ 1/2 turn.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
From cleaning the chambers in the head, realized that cylinders 3 and 4 tend to run lean.

3 and 4 took almost no effort to clean, where as 1 and 2 were a pain....
Shows me that the weird OEM intake manifold design, isn't designed to fix this issue.

So from browsing around the Papadakis racing channel, they got around this issue by making their own multi piece intake manifold with their own restricter plate to try to even the amount of air going to each cylinder.
Of course they didn't show how the manifold was designed or take it apart (racing secrets). I'm designing another manifold, keeping this in mind, and will eventually 3D print one with multiple interchangeable plate designs for bench flow testing.

 

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Discussion Starter #8
segmented for optimal printing.

The horns are where I'm likely going to run into issues for printing. Overhangs.

For the plenum, I'm probably going to have form something as it will be easier to form by hand, than trying to model it.

 

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Discussion Starter #9
On thinking about the # 4 cylinder going lean and such (and getting a little more sleep) this could be mitigated a little by putting the inlet of the fuel rail on the rear side of it, with the stock manifold.

Not sure why they had the inlet on the middle of the rail.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I just received a BK2 2.0T TD04HL-19T turbo/manifold cheap.

I have a td04l-19T (blouch hybrid turbo) currently on the engine in the car right now.

Got the bk2 turbo, for the twin scroll, and the get rid of the BK1 log manifold.

I though it would be as simple as removing the ewga and making a mount for a more traditional pneumatic wga....
But of course things wouldn't be that easy.
The Wastegate flap opens the other way, basically an actuator will need to push to keep the wastegate closed, instead of pulling.

Asking if anybody dealt with this, before I over engineer something to get it to work
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So I over engineered something....

It's to move the pivot of the WGA to the other side of the flap pivot point, so pull will be closed for the flap.

All the holes in it are to reduce the cost of having a 3d print company print it out of sintered steel/bronze.

I could have 3d printed it out of PLA and lost PLA cast it out of aluminum, but considering this will mount onto the wastegate arm, it would get hot.
I don't think hot enough for it to melt, but pretty sure it would get hot enough for it to start deforming.

I could have made something by hand out of steel, but nobody has time for that.

 

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Great work so far. Quick question on the head studs though, for stock cams are the stock head studs useable on engine builds? Could they be torqued down more by any chance?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Great work so far. Quick question on the head studs though, for stock cams are the stock head studs useable on engine builds? Could they be torqued down more by any chance?
head studs or cam tower bolts?

head studs - not reusable, unless you are using ARP studs.

cam tower bolts - reusable.

Any fastener that requires you to torque it to spec, then rotated to a certain degree; are not reusable.
 
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