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Discussion Starter #1
As the title says, I sold my STi and picked up a 2015 R Spec.
R-Spec handles ten times better and steering is excellent.
Pleasantly surprised that the 19" wheels, ride better than the 18s on the STi.
The dilemma, not enough power. I have been trolling the forum now for a week. I know the relative difference between the exhausts, and intakes, tb spacer, P&P etc.

So, some input from tried and true modifications would be appreciated. This will not be a daily driver, but would like it to be civil. Specifically looking for what most members have done that has helped and trying to avoid the pitfalls of being new to a platform.

End result, I live in Michigan, so I don't want my V6 to be embarrassed by all the American muscle up here. My STi had 422whp, I would be happy with 350whp in the Gen.

Any input would be much appreciated.
Profile on me, Retired Air Force aircraft tech. I have a lot of technically ability and a garage full of tools to put this together and hopefully be a respectable ride.

Thanks for any advice.
 

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Boost or NOS only way you'll 350whp.
 

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Yeah, 350 isn't a good number for the v6. Can't get there with bolt ons and a tune and will be expensive to try.

If you want a good bump, you're better off buying a turbo kit. And that'll put you between 450-480 whp. Or less if you turn the boost down.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I have reviewed shorttracks post and build. He has also been kind enough to inform me on all of his mods.
1. I like N20 in moderation, had V8's with them. This is definitely an option.
2. Boosted--gets really $$, I know(STi). I don't look forward to another full rebuild of a bottom end to support it.

Current plan is, I have an event in april. Same personnel that I ran against in the STi, I plan on a good break in (currently on 182 Miles on it). Run the event and get a base line of stock performance.

Stage 1 will be, Probably R2C intake (Maybe K&N), TB, x-pipe, and exhaust (undecided). This will all be supported by a BTR/SFR tune.

Stage 2 will probably be nitrous and supporting mods.
 

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I think you'd be happier going boosted and following Vacmurse's builds. He's done a lot of good write ups on everything so it makes it really easy to follow.
 

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3.8 Driver
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361 Posts
I have reviewed shorttracks post and build. He has also been kind enough to inform me on all of his mods.
1. I like N20 in moderation, had V8's with them. This is definitely an option.
2. Boosted--gets really $$, I know(STi). I don't look forward to another full rebuild of a bottom end to support it.

Current plan is, I have an event in april. Same personnel that I ran against in the STi, I plan on a good break in (currently on 182 Miles on it). Run the event and get a base line of stock performance.

Stage 1 will be, Probably R2C intake (Maybe K&N), TB, x-pipe, and exhaust (undecided). This will all be supported by a BTR/SFR tune.

Stage 2 will probably be nitrous and supporting mods.

TurboKit is fully bolt-on. You don't need to build the bottom end to run it. You sound like you want this to last and be safe so running Meth is a really good idea.

400+ is a easy number to touch on what, 7 pounds?

From everything I know, that's the easiest. NOS added to that would also be killer.
 

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End Me, Begin Him
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Unlike the Sti engines that are not build for much over say 350/350, the 3.8GDI engine can handle 500whp safely in stock form (with a good tune). 450whp/450tq can be run all day no problems. The issue is heat (meth helps as well as lower cylinder pressures i.e less boost).
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Initial thought process was to stay away from boost, but I will research it more. I had to much time and $$ spent in the STi and I was running 27lbs if boost.

The build will happen in May/June.

Reliability is key, with good enough power to run with the domestics here in Big 3 country.
 

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3point8 Performance
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You can get close to the 350whp mark without boost. Take the mods in my sig, add headers or test pipes and true CAI (Actually I think a better filter would be better than CAI). There is a guy on the FB group who is at 336whp with headers. Throw N20 on top of that and pass up 350 easy.

Throw some head work in there and 350 is very doable.

I think the issue you'll face is the torque. Turbo with grip to non-turbo less grip is a big difference.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
abacab, I am near Detroit. If you or other coupes get together, let me know
 

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I think you'd be happier going boosted and following Vacmurse's builds. He's done a lot of good write ups on everything so it makes it really easy to follow.
To be fair though, I'm in quite a bit of money. I think N20 is a decent alternative, it just comes with a lot of re-occurring maintenance.

But also, I'm pushing 450+ whp and trying to keep the engine cool. If you keep the boost down to 5 psi, you'll make over 400 and not have to worry about heat management as much.

The BK2 engine is rock solid (forged crank and all that jazz). My understanding is that heat management is our worst energy, which is why I've done so much in that arena lately.

If I turned down to 5 psi, I'd be comfortable running the base turbo kit without all the expensive supporting mods.

Comes down to preference. Last thing I want to do is be reloading NOS bottles every day. But shortrack is knowledgeable on the NOS side a lot more than most.

Whatever you decide, I hope you have a blast doing it!

My end goal is to fully build the engine and push 15+ psi and maybe after re-enforcing a bunch of crap (like axles and subframe), 20+. We'll see :D
 

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3point8 Performance
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if you want a fast DD or track car then boost like vacmurse or do an n/a build (lots of info out there) or if you plan to do 1/4 mile, then N20 and build your drive train like shortrack. Just my $0.02. As vacmurse said, he's in it a ton of money and there are still some things being worked out, so be prepared to spend time and money.

It all depends on your goals and as always, ymmv.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Thanks everyone for the input. I do things in stages, but try to do it with a thought out process. So far, impressed with the forum and the input. Once i get good pics i will post.
 

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3point8 Performance
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Thanks everyone for the input. I do things in stages, but try to do it with a thought out process. So far, impressed with the forum and the input. Once i get good pics i will post.
Stage 1: Roll that summabich off that trailer
Stage 2: move to where there is no snow
Stage 3: Start buying parts

Also: We love pics :D
 

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The 320whp mark is quiet easy to get to. I did this for under 1500. Intake, cnt exhaust, test pipes, custom btr on original ecu.

Getting much over that gets expensive. Would love a dependable, DD solution with 400whp for around $3500. I would pay up asap. I know NOS is an option, just not into having a bottle in the trunk. I get groceries and stuff all the time!
 

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3point8 Performance
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The 320whp mark is quiet easy to get to. I did this for under 1500. Intake, cnt exhaust, test pipes, custom btr on original ecu.

Getting much over that gets expensive. Would love a dependable, DD solution with 400whp for around $3500. I would pay up asap. I know NOS is an option, just not into having a bottle in the trunk. I get groceries and stuff all the time!
Add ported TB (~$120) and ported manifolds ($0-$300) and you're ready to rock.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I had to have it on the trailer because i bought it in Pittsburgh and took it to Detroit. Its off now.
Where is the best place for porting the TB and Manifold?
 

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I had to have it on the trailer because i bought it in Pittsburgh and took it to Detroit. Its off now.
Where is the best place for porting the TB and Manifold?

TB = maxbore or Proflow Designs
IM = MAPerformance or TurboKits.com
 

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330whp is not too dificult to achive, shotly after, you wold hAve to look at porting engine. Aside from power, you can make the car faster (if going for dragracing) with shorter gearing. You can swap rear pumpkin with axles from 8 speed automatic - can be had used on ebay.

Othervise turbo at 8 psi = 450whp. Throw in better radiator and methanol for
realiability + exhaust and test pipes.
But you can start of light at first with boltons s ported IM and.tune.
 
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