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· wannabe guru
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i looked on hyundai service but couldnt find it. i need a diagram for the connector to the fuel pump....


last night i was doing some pulls and went from 2nd - 3rd shifted right at redline then i think i took 3rd pretty high or it might've been 4th i dont remember but anyways i heard a pop and car died. everyone outside heard it to, said it sounded like something fell off the car. had it towed back to my house, so not sure whats going on, but all i know is the fuel pump doesnt prime when i turn the key on. so ive pulled the cover disconnected the hoses and cranked and it doesn't even pump. so im thinking its not getting power. it did this once before and i took it all apart tested it off my battery and it worked, put it all back together and it was fine. This is a DeatschWerks 200 btw. Thankfully my friend was with me so AAA towed it for free. oh also no CELs which leads me to believe it just ran out of fuel.....the pop could've been the rev limiter cause its pretty aggressive now after my BTR tune

i wonder if i have some electrical gremlin and thats why ive been through so many OEM fuel pumps the car has had 3 of those.
 

· wannabe guru
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
thanks guys.....it looks like the car ate another pump.....wtf....this one is only a few months old probably 5k miles on it....hopefully DeatshWerks has a warranty on it....im not buying another though. maybe Areomotive or AEM or Walbro
 

· wannabe guru
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1,365 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I'm going with Walbro and putting in heavier duty relay and wire.
Ok mind sharing which one I looked on their site but didn't get very far. Also noob question but which wire? The power/ground from the plug to the pump? And also the relay under the hood? Do you maybe think that has been my issue?

About a week ago I was early to my gym appointment so I was just sitting in the car with the AC on, it started running terrible and trying to die so I revved it and it wouldn't it just stuttered. So I shut it off and tried to restart and it wouldn't. So let it sit for about 40min while I was inside and came back out and it started fine and haven't had an issue till yesterday.

This Dearshwerks has a 3 year warranty so I'll see what they do tomorrow when I call.

I can't believe how much fuel pump you went thru lol, how expensive are those aftermarket fuel pumps?

Lol right? The DeatshWerks was $100...that's about the going rate +/- a few ...I bought mine from @BTRcc
 

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Ok mind sharing which one I looked on their site but didn't get very far. Also noob question but which wire? The power/ground from the plug to the pump? And also the relay under the hood? Do you maybe think that has been my issue?

About a week ago I was early to my gym appointment so I was just sitting in the car with the AC on, it started running terrible and trying to die so I revved it and it wouldn't it just stuttered. So I shut it off and tried to restart and it wouldn't. So let it sit for about 40min while I was inside and came back out and it started fine and haven't had an issue till yesterday.

This Dearshwerks has a 3 year warranty so I'll see what they do tomorrow when I call.




Lol right? The DeatshWerks was $100...that's about the going rate +/- a few ...I bought mine from @BTRcc
That one messed up too from btrcc?
 

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@Jeds
255LPH iirc, I don't have the part number.
I'm going to run a dedicated wire from the battery to my relay and then run the relay off the factory hook up. It'll take the load off the factory relay, give me a strong connection and allow me to add an interupt down the road if I find it necessary.
 

· wannabe guru
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
That one messed up too from btrcc?
BTRcc had nothing to do with it, i was just stating thats where i bought it from and got the best price/free fast shipping.

@Jeds
255LPH iirc, I don't have the part number.
I'm going to run a dedicated wire from the battery to my relay and then run the relay off the factory hook up. It'll take the load off the factory relay, give me a strong connection and allow me to add an interupt down the road if I find it necessary.
ok cool.....yeah you lost me lol

thanks ill check it out....


FWIW i found out my car is a friday car LOL, and a low VIN#....this explains the 4+ transmissions and 3+ fuel pumps...i wonder whats next? maybe my Diff? its kinda noisy lol
 

· wannabe guru
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·

· wannabe guru
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1,365 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Ok now I'm confused again. I've read that a few times and my friend is saying doing that requires going to a return style system....this is getting over my head quick lol....it's that correct? What am I missing? Sorry be patient with the noob while I ask stupid questions...he is also recommending going with a better pump like the Aeromotive 340. Cause it can handle PWM.

Aeromotive|11140 - 340 Stealth Fuel Pump Center Inlet

Aeromotive| FAQ – 340 Stealth Fuel Pumps
 

· Premium Member
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Except the GC doesn't use a PWM fuel pump, that's a variable flow pump. It would be awesome if the GC did, but it doesn't and there is zero way for the ECU to properly control it.
 

· wannabe guru
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1,365 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Except the GC doesn't use a PWM fuel pump, that's a variable flow pump. It would be awesome if the GC did, but it doesn't and there is zero way for the ECU to properly control it.
So I'm fine with another DW pump? Hopefully ya since it's on it's way already lol...
 

· I'd rather do it myself
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20,413 Posts
I would think the independent relay fix is really bigger wire. If the OEM wire is only 16 ga then this is way too small for even the max current the OEM relay should carry. Add a little resistance from connectors or age and you are pulling the voltage way down. The OEM relay should be good for a minimum of 20A.
 

· Jedi Master
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6,454 Posts
Except the GC doesn't use a PWM fuel pump, that's a variable flow pump. It would be awesome if the GC did, but it doesn't and there is zero way for the ECU to properly control it.
msd adjustable fuel pump voltage regulator.....

theres also another one that you can program and a refereance map based off of boost, rpm or throttle body position, i'll try to find the name

both expect in the $400-$600 range

or just run a cheap $200 one and run 16V constant, most if not all aftermarket pumps and handle increase to 16V

BTW when you run off the battery it's running 13.4V vs ECU 12V.

doesnt matter with stock fuel pressure regulator as it won't increase flow. But on another note if you run this with a return set up expect a richer idle without DC adjustment
 
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