Hyundai Genesis Forum banner

1 - 20 of 27 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
77 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I would like to first and foremost give a HUGE shout out to the TurboXS team for letting me do this for them. If you don't know who they are, go to there website TurboXS The whole crew is awesome. If you need anything from them, contact Raj and he will definitely take care of you.

Now back to the original topic, I will be posting a step-by-step install for the GarageLine springs and swaybar for the 2012 Genesis coupe 2.0T. The difficulty level for the springs are about a 6-7 out of 10 and the sway bar is like a 2-3 out of 10. This is my very first write up so read and enjoy :D If you have any questions, you can PM me and I will answer them to the best of my knowledge. Any advise would be greatly appreciated so that I can write a better install next time :D

Here is a picture of the GarageLine Springs...
photo credit to rusty_gogo

Here is a picture of the GarageLine Sway Bar...


Tools needed:

Impact gun and air compressor (I HIGHLY RECOMMEND THIS) or 17mm socket wrench and 19mm socket wrench
Flathead screwdriver
12mm socket
14mm socket
17mm socket
19mm socket
A set of spring compressors (These can be bought at Harbor Freight Tools or Advanced Auto Parts)
4 Jack stands
Floor jack
Scissors
Rubber mallet
Allen wretch set
grease formula

PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE STARTING:
BEFORE YOU START THIS, I and TurboXS are not responsible for any damage or fault to you and your car. This is just an installation guideline. You will be solely responsible for any damage done to you and your car. SAFETY ALWAYS COMES FIRST.

Here is the description for the Garageline springs from 2009-12 Hyundai Genesis Coupe Lowering Springs (Street) - Welcome to GarageLine

"GarageLine Street Spec Springs for the 2009-13 Genesis Coupe are a perfect combination of Comfort, Performance, Stance. A slight increase of spring rate was required to improve steering feel and aid in the reduction of body roll. We settled at a measured 175 lbs in the front and 375 lbs in the rear giving us the desired handling characteristics. We did not want to over drive the stock dampers to keep the desired comfort of a car that doesn't need to avoid bumps, dips and other non smooth obstacles found on a daily basis. Even with the car being lowered 1.2 inches front and rear we were able to achieve phenomenal ride quality and inspiring handling characteristics."

Now, the best place to do this is in a garage or a flat and even surface. Let's get started...

STEP 1
Park your car in a garage or a flat and even surface. Straighten out your steering wheel and pull up your emergency brake. Lift the front part of your car using the floor jack and place a jack stand behind the front tire. Repeat this step for the other front tire. The bottom frame of the car should be sitting on top of the floor jack (the tires should not be touching the ground). You will need a good amount of clearance under the car. Now, for the back tires, place the jack stands in front of the tires and not behind it. So, the 4 jack stands should be in between your front and rear tires. When you have done this step properly, go to step 2...

STEP 2
Using the impact gun or 19mm socket wrench, remove the 5 lug nuts from your tire. Remove the tire. Repeat this step for the other 3 tires.

STEP 3
Let's start with the front strut first. Open your hood and use your impact gun or socket wretch to remove the nuts that I have circled...


As you can see, I have already removed the nuts but I circled them just in case to show you what they look like.

STEP 4
Use the flathead screwdriver and remove the top...


STEP 5
Use the impact gun or socket wretch and remove the nut
photo credit to rusty_gogo

STEP 6
Remove the nut from the brake line off of the strut and push it away from you...


I suggest you screw the nut back onto the stud once it is off so you do not lose it.

STEP 7
Remove the first bolt and stud that I am pointing to...(you might have to use the mallet to remove the stud) I already removed the nut in this picture.


I suggest you screw the nut back onto the stud once it is off so you do not lose it.

STEP 8
Before you remove the second bolt and stud that I am pointing to, hold the strut because it will fall since there is nothing holding it into place...


I suggest you screw the nut back onto the stud once it is off so you do not lose it.

It should look something like this...(please disregard that metal wire:dunno:)


At this point, you should have the strut in your hand. Place it on a flat surface, table, or etc. Proceed to the next step...

STEP 9
Before you start this step, I HIGHLY suggest that you watch some youtube videos or google it on how to remove stock springs using the spring compressors. THIS IS A VERY DANGEROUS PROCESS. Safety always comes first so PLEASE BE CAREFUL.

Place the spring compressors onto the springs and tighten it with a socket wretch until both are placed firmly so it won't fall out. Go back and forth by tightening each compressor. DO NOT TIGHTEN JUST ONE COMPRESSOR THEN THE NEXT ONE. If you are going to use the impact gun then tighten it little by little, tightening one all the way can cause serious problems including injury. So, tighten one compressor a little bit then go back and do the other compressor and vice versa until you can remove the stock spring safely. This is what it should look like...




STEP 10
Once the stock spring is compressed enough to be removed, pull off the top hat...


STEP 11
NOTE: this step is optional. If you want a lower drop in the front then I suggest you do this step, if not then you can skip it.
Inside this...


there should be a bump stop


Remove it and cut 1/3 of it like this...


Remove the old spring and put the bump stop back in once you have cut it.

STEP 12
Place the spring compressors on the new GarageLine spring and tighten it as described in STEP 9. This is what it should look like...
photo credit to rusty_gogo

STEP 13
Place the new GarageLine spring onto the strut and place the spring compressors on the spring like this...(when you place the new GarageLine spring on, their logo "GarageLine" should be facing up during install and not upside down) MAKE SURE THE NEW SPRING IS PLACED IN THE STRUT PROPERLY!!


STEP 14
If you look at the stud and the top hat, there should be a flat groove like this...
photo credit to rusty_gogo
photo credit to rusty_gogo

Put the top hat on and make sure it is aligned, take off the spring compressors little by little for each one and it should look like this...
photo credit to rusty_gogo
photo credit to rusty_gogo

These last few steps are putting the suspension back into your car. I suggest you get a friend to help you with these last few steps. Just look back at the steps that I wrote and go in reverse.

Now repeat steps 2-14 for the other front suspension.

The rear springs should be really easy. It is less complicated than the front springs install.

Now, let's start with the rear suspension.

STEP 1
From the very first step during the front suspension install, your tires should be off your car. So, you need to remove the bolts with the impact gun or socket wretch. Here is a picture...


STEP 2
Remove the 2 bolts located on the rear axle pictured below with the impact gun or socket wretch. One of the bolts are pushed out to show you that you might need to use the mallet to hit it out.


STEP 3
Remove the one bolt connecting the rear suspension from the rear axle with the impact gun or socket wretch.


STEP 4
There should be no bolts connecting the rear axle to the rear suspension.


By now, you should be able to pry down on the control arm and remove the rear spring. If not, find the bolts that are still connecting the 2.

STEP 5
After installing the rear spring, it should look like this...

Make sure you have installed the spring the correct way with "GarageLine" logo facing up and not upside down.
Now, all you have to do is go in reverse from step 5 to step 1.

Repeat steps 1-5 for the other rear suspension.

Make sure you have no loose bolts or nuts laying around. Double check your work and make sure everything is intact. If so, you have successfully installed the GarageLine springs. You will need an alignment done after about a week or two once the GarageLine springs are installed

This set of instructions will help you install the GarageLine sway bar. I did not take a lot of pictures because I was worried about the springs install since it is a dangerous install. Here is the description that Garageline wrote about the rear sway bar on their website 2009-12 Hyundai Genesis Coupe Rear Sway Bar 22mm - Welcome to GarageLine

"The GarageLine rear sway bar for the 2009-12 Genesis coupe is a great upgrade for the base model. The stock rear sway bar on the base model is only 19mm. The factory does this to induce the oversteer for oblivious drivers. We have designed a simple upgrade to reduce the roll in the turns while retaining a nice ride compliancy. Keeping the right amout of balance in the suspension allowing the car to roll less and rotate properly upon the exit of a turn. This sway bar is designed to be used with your stock front sway bar so it does not need to be upgraded. A big bonus is the stiffness can be adjusted to your driving style or your tires level of grip."

Features:
Bar Size - 22mm
Adjustable Mounting Points
Powdercoated White Finish
Polyurethane Bushings and Greaseable Mounts

Now, let's get started...

STEP 1
Your car should still be up from the jack stands so go behind the car underneath the exhaust and you should see a black sway bar like this...


Remove the 2 screws from the sway bar end links using the impact gun or socket wretch on both sides...

There is another sway bar end link on the other side of the sway bar so remove that one as well. Remember to know which side you removed the end link for the new sway bar install. Do not forget.

STEP 2
Remove the sway bar itself by unscrewing it on both sides with either the impact gun or socket wretch...


STEP 3
Attach the sway bar end links that you removed in step 1 onto the new GarageLine sway bar. The great thing about this sway bar is that it is adjustable to give a "stiffer" feel or a "softer" feel depending on how you like it. If you look at the picture, the hole closest to the sway bar will give you a stiff feeling and the hole furthest (at the end) will give you a soft feeling. This is totally up to how you want your car to feel.

I have mine on the "stiffer" setting. Here is a picture to show you...



STEP 3
Grease the outside and inside the bushings then attach them just like in the picture below...(you will need your allen wretch to attach the gold sway bar lateral locks)


STEP 4
Attach the sway bar end links. Refer to step 4 for pictures.

STEP 5
Align the bushings and use the impact gun or socket wretch to attach the new Garageline sway bar.



I know these are a lot of steps and it's time consuming but it is a great project if you have the time to do it. If you are confused about a step, then you can PM me and I will try to help you out as best as I can. This is my very first write up so any words of advice will help me later down the road. Enjoy!! :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,677 Posts
do you have before and after pics for the amount of drop it gives?
 

·
I <3 Boobs!
Joined
·
17,486 Posts
Well apparently my post didn't post.

You used a lot of my pictures! :p

I'm glad to see that you did some stuff a different way than I did.
It shows people a different ways to do stuff.
Great right up man!
 

·
I <3 Boobs!
Joined
·
17,486 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
77 Posts
Discussion Starter #5

·
Registered
Joined
·
77 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Well apparently my post didn't post.

You used a lot of my pictures! :p

I'm glad to see that you did some stuff a different way than I did.
It shows people a different ways to do stuff.
Great right up man!

haha. thanks man. i appreciate it. i was nervous because this is my first write up so i wanted it to look good.
 

·
I <3 Boobs!
Joined
·
17,486 Posts
haha. thanks man. i appreciate it. i was nervous because this is my first write up so i wanted it to look good.
Its all good man. You did a great job.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
292 Posts
So question: The BASE model comes with a 19mm rear swaybar... what does the Grand Touring model come with? 19mm or a bigger size? Also... does the "softer" mounting setup on the 22mm bar still provide a stiffer suspension than a stock swaybar?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
380 Posts
TY
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
77 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
So question: The BASE model comes with a 19mm rear swaybar... what does the Grand Touring model come with? 19mm or a bigger size? Also... does the "softer" mounting setup on the 22mm bar still provide a stiffer suspension than a stock swaybar?
If i'm not mistaken, the grand touring should come with an upgraded suspension. I'm not sure about the mm of the sway bar though. I have the base 2.0T model. Since your upgrading from a 19mm to a 22mm, either setting will give you a stiffer suspension but Garageline gave that option to gencoupe owners, have some softness or be stiff as a rock. It depends on how you drive and what type of feel you like to have. Before, I couldn't take a turn at 50mph because I could feel my car oversteering. Now, I can take turns at 60mph and I feel like I have more control of the car. It's an awesome upgrade for such a inexpensive price. I suggest you call TurboXS and ask for Jermaine. He should be able to help you with that question. I hope my answer(s) helped you. :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
292 Posts
I'm pretty sure that only the 3.8 Track and R-Sepc come with the "upgraded" suspension. Though IDK what size swaybar comes standard on the 3.8 GT and if its bigger than the standard bar on the 2.0T cars. I do like the idea of the "softer" setting so you get some improved handling performance without turning the car into a brick.

I replaced the 16mm rear swaybar on my Accord with a 20mm bar, and it made a world of difference. Combined with the lowering springs and 17" Motegi wheels, that car handled great for a FF 4-cylinder lol. I dare say it didn't handle all too much worse than the stock Genesis. Though the RWD gives such a better feel. And 306 HP > 150 HP

Edit:

Just researched it at Car & Driver.... the 3.8 GT has a .70" diameter rear swaybar, which roughly translaters to 18mm (well, 17.78mm) whereas the 3.8 Track has a .86" rear swaybar (which is 22mm).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
77 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
I'm pretty sure that only the 3.8 Track and R-Sepc come with the "upgraded" suspension. Though IDK what size swaybar comes standard on the 3.8 GT and if its bigger than the standard bar on the 2.0T cars. I do like the idea of the "softer" setting so you get some improved handling performance without turning the car into a brick.

I replaced the 16mm rear swaybar on my Accord with a 20mm bar, and it made a world of difference. Combined with the lowering springs and 17" Motegi wheels, that car handled great for a FF 4-cylinder lol. I dare say it didn't handle all too much worse than the stock Genesis. Though the RWD gives such a better feel. And 306 HP > 150 HP

Edit:

Just researched it at Car & Driver.... the 3.8 GT has a .70" diameter rear swaybar, which roughly translaters to 18mm (well, 17.78mm) whereas the 3.8 Track has a .86" rear swaybar (which is 22mm).

The swaybar that I have is for 2.0L coupes. If you still want an aftermarket one then contact Garageline and see if they have any in stock or if they can fabricate one with a bigger mm. I didn't realize you had a 3.8 until I saw your signature :confused:. haha.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
395 Posts
Great DIY, thanks. I just got my k-sports in and will be following this. Question though..why do you wait a week to get an alignment? I was planning on scheduling one the following day.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,677 Posts
seems to be a pretty small drop. ~1.2" all around? (im looking to as small as possible)
 

·
Wannabe Track Junky
Joined
·
883 Posts
Great DIY, thanks. I just got my k-sports in and will be following this. Question though..why do you wait a week to get an alignment? I was planning on scheduling one the following day.
You just want to give the springs time to settle.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
77 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Great DIY, thanks. I just got my k-sports in and will be following this. Question though..why do you wait a week to get an alignment? I was planning on scheduling one the following day.
You have to let the springs settle. Wait about a week or two then schedule an appointment for an alignment. Thank you. It took a lot of editing. haha
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
77 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
seems to be a pretty small drop. ~1.2" all around? (im looking to as small as possible)
Garageline wanted to combine performance, comfort, and look so they thought 1.2" drop was the best. I'm not sure if you have spacers in or not but they do make a big difference. I'll post up pictures after I get my spacers installed and hopefully it will give you an idea of what it will look like.
 
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
Top