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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Today I'm going to be showing everyone how to install the GarageLine Springs on a 2013, which also fit on the 2009-2012 Gen coupes.
This install was a fairly simple one (~6 or 7 out of 10 for most) and can be completed in about 2.5-4 hours flying solo.


If there is any question of what springs I'm talking about, you can find them here: 2009-12 Hyundai Genesis Coupe Lowering Springs (Street) - Welcome to GarageLine

And I will quote info from their site:
"GarageLine Street Spec Springs for the 2009-13 Genesis Coupe are a perfect combination of Comfort, Performance, Stance. A slight increase of spring rate was required to improve steering feel and aid in the reduction of body roll. We settled at a measured 175 lbs in the front and 375 lbs in the rear giving us the desired handling characteristics. We did not want to over drive the stock dampers to keep the desired comfort of a car that doesn't need to avoid bumps, dips and other non smooth obstacles found on a daily basis. Even with the car being lowered 1.2 inches front and rear we were able to achieve phenomenal ride quality and inspiring handling characteristics."

Now, neither TurboXS nor myself will and do not take any responsibility for any damage that may occur to you or your vehicle during the installation process.

Now, lets get this show on the road.

To start, we'll do the front first.

You're going to need the following tools.
-19mm wrench
-17mm wrench
-flathead screwdriver
-12mm socket
-14mm socket
-17mm socket
-19mm socket
- a set of spring compressors (example: far left of picture)


First of all, we'll start by doing the obvious, and jack the front of the car up, and place on jack stands (or your specific type of lifting method). Now it doesn't matter which side you start on, the process is the same for both sides.
Remove the tire(s) and set the tire(s) off to the side.
Continue by loosening up all of the following bolts:

-the 2 lower strut bolts..

-the 3 upper strut tower nuts..



Remove the plastic cap on top of the strut tower using the flathead screwdriver..

Now break free the strut retaining nut (give it a good 2 turns)

Next, completely take off the brake line off of the strut.. short 12mm bolt..

And completely take off the sway bar link off of the strut and lean it against the inside of the wheel well..


Now go back and remove the 2 lower strut bolts (the 2 bolts pictured below)..

The strut should now be free from the brake caliper and lower control arm and such..
After it is free, go back up top and remove the 3 nuts on top of the strut.. NOTE: Make sure you hold the strut assembly while you take off the 3rd nut, as the assembly may fall out because there is nothing left holding it in.

Once you have the assembly on the ground (work bench, floor, etc.), this is where the spring compressors come into play..

BE AWARE THAT THIS IS THE MOST POTENTIALLY DANGEROUS PROCESS!!

For the type of spring compressors that I used, they are very simple to use. Place one compressor on one side of the springs, then the other compressor on the exact opposite side and tighten each one finger tight.
Like so:


Once they are snug on the spring, tighten each compressor with either a wrench or socket with a ratchet, roughly 3-5 turns at a time rotating from side to side (I personally try not to push my luck, and take the safe way out).

I would NOT suggest using an impact gun during this process as it makes this already dangerous process even more dangerous.

Once the spring is compressed enough to remove the tension off of the strut retaining nut, you can now remove the retaining nut with a 17mm socket. Since you've already broke it free before you removed the strut from the car, it should come off fairly easy. After the removal of the nut, the strut/spring retainer should come off with very little wiggling action.
Once off, you can slide the compressed spring off of the strut and begin to decompress the spring, again, rotating from one compressor the the other a couple turns at a time.

The stock spring compared to the GarageLine Spring:


If you are still confused about the whole spring compressing situation, here's a video I found to help you out:
Video: Compressing a Vehicle's Coil Spring | eHow.com

Next we're going to do the exact opposite of what you just did, to install the new springs.
Use the spring compressors to compress the new spring to a considerable amount..

NOTE: Make sure the new spring is placed on the strut correctly!! (Flat part of the spring faces upwards... Although this should be a no-brainer, but I don't judge)
..And place the spring on the strut, making sure everything is aligned and positioned correctly, continue by placing the strut/spring retainer on top of the strut... -----HOWEVER, notice that there is a flat spot on both the strut and the retainer-----



Make sure you have the flat spots aligned correctly so that the retainer can slide on significantly, and so you can put the nut on with a significant amount of threads showing above the nut (after tightened up a bit). You should be able to notice if they are lined up correctly and such, but if you can't, or if you are unsure of yourself, simply pop off the plastic cap on the other strut to compare them.
Once you've got the retaining nut on, tighten it as much as you can on the ground before decompressing the spring. (Don't worry, we'll finish tightening up the retaining nut later).
Now that the nut is tight, you can decompress the spring just like you did before. Again, make sure the rubber grommets are lined up correctly to fit against the spring correctly.
You should end up with something that looks like this!




Now that your strut assembly is back together, we're going to reinstall it in your car. Notice that the 3 bolts on top of the strut mount do not make a perfect triangle, so it will only fit into your car one way. Use one hand to align and hold up your assembly in your car while you use your other hand to put on a nut or 2 on top. (If you have a helper, it would make this process a lot easier.) Finish putting on all 3 of the nuts finger tight, then move to the lower strut mount.
Now that you're on the lower mount, line up the bottom bolt hole and put in a bolt. After you put in the bottom bolt, you should be able to push in on the top of the brake rotor to line up the upper bolt hole in the bottom mount. Once aligned, slide in the 2nd bolt..

You can now put on the nuts and tighten them up. Then go to the top mount, use the 14mm and tighten up the 3 nuts for the top mount.
After tightening up the mounts, use your 17mm socket and finish tightening up the strut retaining nut.
Now go back down to the bottom and put the sway bar link on the strut and tighten it up, along with the brake line.

What you have, should look like this:


All you have to do is put your tire back on and your done! (I know it seems like a lot, but I assure you it's not bad.)

Now repeat this process for the opposite side, as it is done the exact same way and you're good to go!! For the front that is :D



Rear:
The rear is much more simple.
Lets get started :p

We're obviously going to start off with jacking up with car and placing your car on jack stands (or whatever your lifting preference is).
Remove your wheels and place them off to the side.
If you're replacing the rear sway bar, this is the best time to do so :)

Continue by either completely taking off the sway bar (which I did since I was changing it out) or disconnect the sway bar links for the control arm.

You can disconnect the links with a 17mm wrench and a 17mm socket.
Driver side:

Passenger side:


Or if you're completely removing the sway bar, you can remove the links for the control arm, just like above, and then remove the 2 mounting brackets with a 14mm socket (2 bolts for each bracket).
Driver side:



Passenger side:




Now that we have the sway bar either disconnected or off, we can now begin on the spring part of this mission.

You could do this a different way, but here is my way, and what I think is the most logical way.

Begin with removing the nuts on these 2 bolts:

Now take not of where the alignment marks are on your camber bolts. (Whichever side you're working on, the pictures will work for either or, as you get the idea).
Front side: From Rear of the vehicle.


Back side: From Front of the vehicle.



You can either take a picture of it, or use your memory as to know where the markings were. (I used my memory.)

Now that you know where the markings were, you can loosen up the nut on the camber bolt. You'll just need a few turns so that the control arm can turn freely.
I do believe you will need a 22mm or a 23mm to do so. (I used a 15/16 socket to do mine *shuns himself*)

Now you should have loose the camber bolt, and the 2 nuts off of the control arm from earlier.
Place a jack under the edge of the control arm, jack it up a little to give the outer most bolt a little bit of movement and then remove it like so...


Lower the jack and pull it out of your way.


Now give the control arm a little wiggle, while you pull on the bolt holding in the shock (the one beside the one you just took out).
The bolt should come out and the control arm is now going to want to fall freely to the ground.
(Sorry I don't have a picture for this one. Sad face.)
As you've noticed, the spring is going to come down with the control arm. Be careful, as the spring may fall out and bounce around and potentially hurt you.
Anyways, make sure you know which side of the spring is up and which is down (look at the opposite side for reference).

CONTINUED IN POST 10!!
 

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BOOOOOOST!
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OUTSTANDING!!!! great pics/tutorial
 

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Gen Noob
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Thank You! Awesome writeup I am planning on installing these on my Gen this evening or the weekend! :D
 

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I <3 Boobs!
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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks guys. I'm glad I can help!!

I've got a busy day today, so I don't have time to get on my computer and finish the write up.. but I'll get to it tomorrow :)
 

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do you mind if i borrow one or two pictures from this? I forgot to take pictures of the top hat stud. that part is very important because it has a flat side that must be aligned. I'm finishing my write up soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
do you mind if i borrow one or two pictures from this? I forgot to take pictures of the top hat stud. that part is very important because it has a flat side that must be aligned. I'm finishing my write up soon.
By all means sir.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
nice how too bro!
Thanks man! I appreciate it!

Hopefully I'll be able to finish it tonight with the rears...

And the rear sway bar too!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
CONTINUATION OF POST ONE!!!


I placed mine on the ground to compare:

Transfer over the rubber mounts (bushings, whatever you want to call them) to the new springs, and place the new spring (with rubber) back into the control arm. And make sure, whenever you place the spring back in the control arm, that the nipple on the lower rubber piece, goes back into the hole it was originally in...
Driver side:

Passenger side:


This will assure that the spring is in the correct position.
Using both hands, lift the control arm up and push the spring into the upper mounting place.
(I again don't have a picture, but you can reference off of the opposite side if you're unsure of placement. Sorry.)

Once into place, you can either muscle the control arm up to the shock, to put a bolt in through the control arm and shock, or you can use a jack to put it into position. I found it easier for myself to just muscle it up there. It should now look like this...


Use the jack to lift the control arm up into place so you can put in the second bolt. I will add that you will most likely have to do a little bit of wiggling/pulling/pushing to get the holes to line up.
(Note that this is the same process as the uninstall, just backwards.)

It should now look like this... again...


Once the 2 bolts are placed in, you can go back and tighten up the camber bolt, making sure that the bolt notches are lined up exactly how they were before. Then go tighten the 2 lower bolts on the control arm.

Do the exact same process for the opposite side.
Once you've finished the other side, you can put your sway bar back in, and if you're like me, you can put in your aftermarket sway bar instead of the factory one. I will make a different write up for the GarageLine sway bar.
The install of the sway bar is the opposite of the uninstall.

After you get it back in, put on your wheels and lower your car.

You are now DONE!

BEFORE:

AFTER:

BEFORE:

AFTER:


My thoughts and opinions:
After installation of both the GarageLine springs and the R-spec sway bar, my car handles like an absolute dream. The spring rate is perfect, the drop is awesome. Its not too much and not too little.
The ride is also fantastic! I can feel the stiffness, but it's NOT harsh. And the handling. Oh my god the handling. :D:D:D I can't get enough!
These springs combined with the rear sway bar, is like heaven on earth!!!!! I love them!!!!! I will recommend these products to everyone!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Any questions or comments are always welcome!!!!!!!!
 

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whats the price on this set?
 

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Discussion Starter #16

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2012 3.8 Track ZF-6-SPD
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Great diy will follow this for my 2012 hopefully its the same.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I should be using this DIY tomorrow thanks

I hope everything goes well!!!!




Great diy will follow this for my 2012 hopefully its the same.
It will be sir :). I wish you the best of luck!




This DIY can also be used for any other spring install. They're all the same. I just support GarageLine, so that's what is shown :D
 
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