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3point8 Performance
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I am curious why Mobile 1 would "cause issues" on boosted 3.8 because I've run Mobile 1 in my turbo cars (still do) 22psi 400whp and most of the SRT4 community does as well, a lot of those guys pushing 30+ psi on big turbos and 600+whp running 10s in the 1/4.

The difference is that 3.8 wasn't designed with boost in mind while factory boosted cars are; I'm curious exactly what about that combination the mobile 1 formula has issues handling. I seriously doubt it's heat because even with oil coolers the neons can easily get to 275+ just doing some fwy pulls. Most of those guys are 150k miles on the odo. Unless the heat combined with tighter tolerances is the problem or maybe it's an oil pressure issue, design flaw in the lambda motor that is exaggerated by the boost?.

I'm not saying mobile 1 can or cannot handle it, I'm simply here to try and work out what the potential problem using mobile 1 would be.
 

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3point8 Performance
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2,614 Posts
I bought my gene coupe about 2 years go. i am the second owner of the car. I get this car with 20K miles on it. Since i've had it, i put an additional 35k miles into it. My car is now paid off. Is it worth getting a turbo kit with my car? I feel like my engine is too old now because it is my daily and i do drive it hard. Thanks guys and let me know what your thoughts are on this topic.
It's worth it if that's what you want, but you should also be prepared for failure and down time. You should be ready to rebuild the block to better handle the boost. If you're not ready for that commitment or don't have the funds, then find an alternative. I'm just saying it's not an easy road to take. While a few like Jeff, Josh and Terrance have paved the way and discovered many issues you'll encounter, it's still a hard road. Are you mechanically inclined and/or do you have a fat wallet? Do you have another daily driver?
 

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644 Posts
We were never against running Mobile1. As a matter of fact, our customers who got installed the tuned TK kit by us are running all Mobile 1 without any issues so far.
We are against of people who have just some basic or no knowledge thinking to put up a turbokit themselves or bunch of buddies will not cause any problems or people who constantly beating the crap out of their cars that were meant to be N/A form or just being lazy on the maintenance.
I highly doubt the oil isn't the issue people who are going with motor issues while using high quality oil is still important.
Thank you for speaking up about what was said of SFR's recommendations and clearing up some incorrect, significant statements! Do you know what weight Mobil 1 they are using?

I am curious why Mobile 1 would "cause issues" on boosted 3.8 because I've run Mobile 1 in my turbo cars (still do) 22psi 400whp and most of the SRT4 community does as well, a lot of those guys pushing 30+ psi on big turbos and 600+whp running 10s in the 1/4.

The difference is that 3.8 wasn't designed with boost in mind while factory boosted cars are; I'm curious exactly what about that combination the mobile 1 formula has issues handling. I seriously doubt it's heat because even with oil coolers the neons can easily get to 275+ just doing some fwy pulls. Most of those guys are 150k miles on the odo. Unless the heat combined with tighter tolerances is the problem or maybe it's an oil pressure issue, design flaw in the lambda motor that is exaggerated by the boost?.

I'm not saying mobile 1 can or cannot handle it, I'm simply here to try and work out what the potential problem using mobile 1 would be.
Glad to see someone else thinks it sounds odd and wants to know the cause and reason behind it instead of just accepting things without proof. What is the tolerance between the 3.8 which is designed as an N/A car vs the tolerance of the 2.0T which is a factory turbo car? What are the recommended oil pressures for each of them? Is the spun bearing on the turbo 3.8's consistently the same one or in a similar area of the engine? If so, that could potentially mean a flaw in the lambda engine was exaggerated by the boost as you said.

Any turbo 3.8 guys/gals want to chime in with what brand and weight oil you are using? Oil pressures seen with each? Etc?
 

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13,000 Posts
Is Mobil 1 the cause? Unfortunately, it's heavily unknown since most of the guys when they fail, fail very spectacularly.
I am personally of the opinion that it's a multi-facetted issue.
1) The 3.8 naturally runs hot at the bearings.
2) The vast majority of the failures occurred without an oil cooler.
3) Many of the failures occurred with the owners running stock-spec oil (5w20/30) without considering the fact that the base turbo TK supplies is oil cooled, raising the temperature of the oil significantly and lowering it viscosity, life and additives.

So it has been my recommendation for the 3.8T guys to switch to a 5w-40 as the minimum spec, 5w-50 if they insist on not using an oil cooler. This is to combat the higher pan temperature.
I also strongly urge a "known good" synthetic oil such as Rotella T6, AMSoil Dominator or something akin to those (even Mobil's version of T6 would be better), as those are designed specifically for high temperature environments, meaning their viscosities don't plummet just because they went a few degrees over the SAE guidelines.

As for the data that brought me to these recommendations, it's simply been my observations, notes and experiences with the owners of the cars themselves. None have yet to send an oil sample out post-failure, so the composition of the oil hasn't been observed unfortunately.
 

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Is Mobil 1 the cause? Unfortunately, it's heavily unknown since most of the guys when they fail, fail very spectacularly.
I am personally of the opinion that it's a multi-facetted issue.
1) The 3.8 naturally runs hot at the bearings.
2) The vast majority of the failures occurred without an oil cooler.
3) Many of the failures occurred with the owners running stock-spec oil (5w20/30) without considering the fact that the base turbo TK supplies is oil cooled, raising the temperature of the oil significantly and lowering it viscosity, life and additives.

So it has been my recommendation for the 3.8T guys to switch to a 5w-40 as the minimum spec, 5w-50 if they insist on not using an oil cooler. This is to combat the higher pan temperature.
I also strongly urge a "known good" synthetic oil such as Rotella T6, AMSoil Dominator or something akin to those (even Mobil's version of T6 would be better), as those are designed specifically for high temperature environments, meaning their viscosities don't plummet just because they went a few degrees over the SAE guidelines.

As for the data that brought me to these recommendations, it's simply been my observations, notes and experiences with the owners of the cars themselves. None have yet to send an oil sample out post-failure, so the composition of the oil hasn't been observed unfortunately.
You've put out more unbiased, logical, and non-defensive information in your one response than everyone else did combined. Thank you.

I agree it is likely a multi-faceted issue and not just Mobil 1 causing the problem. Since Mobil 1 is a synthetic oil brand many think of when they go for a synthetic, I believe it tends to be more popular and happened to be used in more engines overall, boosted or N/A, than others. Makes it an easy scapegoat. Though again I'm not N/A, I plan on doing a 10k oil sample with Mobil 1 5w20 in the near future.
 

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Cone Killa
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375 Posts
Go here https://540ratblog.wordpress.com and ctrl+f "5W30 Mobil 1" and look at the fifth result. You can see that this guy tested Mobil 1 5W30 and while it provided great protection in regular conditions, at extreme temperatures, its wear protectiom dropped significantly more than other top oils.

Not saying the Mobil 1 5W30 caused those engine failures in the boosted 3.8s, just sharing information.
 

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Go here https://540ratblog.wordpress.com and ctrl+f "5W30 Mobil 1" and look at the fifth result. You can see that this guy tested Mobil 1 5W30 and while it provided great protection in regular conditions, at extreme temperatures, its wear protectiom dropped significantly more than other top oils.

Not saying the Mobil 1 5W30 caused those engine failures in the boosted 3.8s, just sharing information.
Nice find. It'd take me a while to read all of that stuff but there's some good information in there.

While the Mobil 1 did shear and lose its viscosity a bit, even he classifies it as in the "good" wear protection category after shearing. This also points to the need for an oil cooler. Choosing a thicker oil to withstand shearing at really high temperatures is kind of a bandaid fix instead of addressing the core problem of not having an oil cooler in applications where the oil gets that hot.

Interesting enough, the Rotella T6 had almost SIGNIFICANTLY LESS FILM STRENGTH than the Mobil 1 5w30, even with the higher zinc levels that many claim is necessary for proper protection. Interesting. 67,804 psi vs 105,875 psi.

Copied and pasted for everyone's enjoyment.

"SUMMARY
Thermal Breakdown BEGINS SOONER with Diesel oil, than with gas engine oils, which is not desirable for High Performance gas engine usage. And as you can see by looking at this short list of “high zinc” gas engine oils, or by looking at the complete ranking list below, there are many, many gas engine oils available that are FAR SUPERIOR to the best Diesel oils in terms of wear protection. Therefore, using Diesel oils in high performance gas engines is NOT the best choice, if you want superior wear protection with plenty of margin of safety (extra reserve wear protection above what the engine typically needs).

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For those who have used Diesel oil in High Performance gas engines for years without issue, you were able to do that only because the wear protection required by the engines, never happened to exceed the oil’s capability. But, you were clearly running a MUCH LOWER margin of safety than you would have been, if you’d used a much more capable gas engine oil instead. So, if you’ve been using Diesel oil in High Performance gas engines, you may want to rethink what you’ve been doing and consider upgrading to one of the far better gas engine oils.

CONCLUSION
The bottom line is that the end user does NOT know more about motor oil than the Oil Companies’ Chemical Engineers and Chemists. So, the BEST choice is to use only quality gas engine oil in High Performance gas engines. These oils offer MUCH HIGHER wear protection capability and can withstand somewhat higher temperatures before the onset of Thermal Breakdown. Leave the less capable Diesel oils for use only in Diesel engines, where they are meant to be used."
 

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Cone Killa
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375 Posts
I read practically the entire page and can give a quick summary.

- What matters most with modern motor oils is wear protection additives. Base stocks don't matter as much as people like to think.

- Thinner oil is generally better as it carries away more heat. Liquid oil is incompressible. Therefore, as long as it doesn't breakdown from its liquid state, there will be no metal on metal contact that will cause engine failures like spun bearings.

- Oil loses wear protection capabilities at extreme temps. Some oils break down more than others at these temps. See the list for details.

- Motor oil additives are unnecessary and generally a waste of money.

- A high quality gasoline motor oil is better for your engine than a diesel one.
 

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644 Posts
I read practically the entire page and can give a quick summary.

- What matters most with modern motor oils is wear protection additives. Base stocks don't matter as much as people like to think.

- Thinner oil is generally better as it carries away more heat. Liquid oil is incompressible. Therefore, as long as it doesn't breakdown from its liquid state, there will be no metal on metal contact that will cause engine failures like spun bearings.

- Oil loses wear protection capabilities at extreme temps. Some oils break down more than others at these temps. See the list for details.

- Motor oil additives are unnecessary and generally a waste of money.

- A high quality gasoline motor oil is better for your engine than a diesel one.
Preach it, brother.

Couldn't have summarized it better, myself. There isn't a single bad product in the Mobil 1 line of products. They're all API certified oils which means they've met or exceeded a pretty stringent set of standards. If you have problems using an API rated oil, you're probably doing something wrong.
 

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Premium Member
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1,773 Posts
@ScottAtlanta82 oh darn, I missed another thread where people argue about oil. Lol.

TLDR: Yes the turbo is awesome on this car.
 

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3 years later... hard to find quality info on genesis turbos when forum members cant stay on topic. This is why most forum conversations are pointless drivel. Im looking to possibly turbo my 15 coupe and some good info, but instead come across an opec argument about oil. <sigh>
 

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Obsessed
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1,176 Posts
3 years later... hard to find quality info on genesis turbos when forum members cant stay on topic. This is why most forum conversations are pointless drivel. Im looking to possibly turbo my 15 coupe and some good info, but instead come across an opec argument about oil. <sigh>
The info is there, just may be diluted with the tangential info. This type of side tracking is pretty universal across any forum on any topic/hobby anywhere on the internet, as well as half of live conversations, would be wise to get used to it. If you have a specific question, feel free to ask it and we could likely provide some pointed info. Otherwise, we're simply adding to the forum fodder by complaining about forum fodder.
 

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I decided to bite the bullet and go all in on the TKs kit for my 3.8 BK2 - gen 2 6266 ceramic BB turbo, mishimoto oil cooler, heat wrap upgrade, plug upgrade and free hot side coating, plus tune. For you oil lovers 2 different shops recommended Amsoil oil (along with TK.com) specifically for Turbos - XL 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil....the guys who do this all day are by far the best source of information.

Costs much more than the Remnant Performance kit, but the Precision Turbo vs the RP's ON3 is a better made Turbo (According to everything Ive read...we shall see). That and parts are more readily available in case I ever need replacements. The 67mm 6266 TK BB turbo seems to be a better application fit than a 72mm RP BB one for a car that will be setup rather conservative (6 psi max) running 91 Octane. It would be way to cost prohibitive to forge internals..etc. so the only other mod is currently the magnaflow catback with the secondary cats removed. Any more money on this Korean throw away and I may as well buy a much cooler C8 vette!

If someone stumbles in this ancient post (like I did) from a google search, I'll provide you with pics and my actual experience with the turbo while actually stay on topic.
 
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