[genjuice]

You have an auto backup with your ecu, as long as you have not made too many connected changes , your original map should be there from the first time you connected to your laptop.

 

[genjuice]

And were back, so I have brought the overheating issue to the attention of our engineers and we have been doing testing as I told you all about. Today I got a summary of the testing and results from our engineer who had the test car in arizona, I will copy and paste his email here:

After some analysis of the data we recorded from our vehicle in Arizona we can confirm that high underhood temps are certainly a cause for throttle failure. What we measured was when underhood air temperatures approach 120C the air temp inside the ECU case is approaching 130C and the surface temperature of the throttle control chip is reaching 140C at this temperature the chip begins to fail to open the throttle and a change in APP will yield no corresponding change in throttle blade movement. Typically the throttle will get stuck at about 6% opening and go no further.

Once the surface temp of the throttle chip drops below 125C it operates reliably again, consistently until it gets back up to the mid to high 130’s where it fails again.

We were able to induce underhood temps of this nature with the engine idling for long periods (if the car had been driven on the highway for an hour or so and then just let idle on the black top in 40C ambient temps it took about 25 mins if idle to reach these failure temps.

Given the issue here is ambient underhood temps, heatsinking or putting fans on the ECU itself will have little effect as the heat is not being generated in the ECU, but in the engine compartment. Turbo blankets and exhaust heatshields should have a positive effect in lowering the engine bay temps and therefore helping the issue.

Given that automotive grade electronics components are only rated to 125C even if the throttle continued to work at these sorts of ambient temperatures something else would soon enough be failing. Something else that may be worth looking at is the ignition timing values people are using at idle, advancing the timing a couple of degrees will have reduce exhaust gas temperature thereby reducing underhood temps as well as will exhaust cam timing and EGR (exhaust cam timing essentially acts as EGR at idle anyways).


I hope that this is more informative than my "we beat the crap out of our test car in AZ for hours" post.

Yup, I set my zero throttle timing @15 degrees, I must also say, You need to make sure all your corrections are correct out to 100 degrees coolant, those extra few degrees from 85 to say 91 coolant if those higher cells are not set
properly will have drivabilty issues.

 

[genjuice]

I did a bit of testing yesterday morning. The outside air temp was only 65 degrees. I started the car, and let it idle for around 15 min or so with the hood closed. After the water temp reached normal, my afr at idle was 14.5 ish, and the sft's were plus or minus 1. Then I turned it off and let it set for 5 min. When I restarted it, it would not idle until the o2 correction started working. Then my fuel trims maxed out at 15, and the afr was 15.2 . I let it idle for another 5 min with no change. Then I open the hood and directed a fan on the haltech. It was so hot that you could not keep your hand on it for more than a second or two. Within two minutes, my fuel trims returned to normal. I repeated this test three times, and it did the same thing every time. After that, I left the hood open and repeated the test. No problem!

Bottom line is there is too much heat in my engine bay for the haltech. Perhaps an extension cable that would allow moving the haltech inside would cure this issue. I have to do something, as every time I park the car, then restart it shortly afterwards, It will barely run until I drive it for several miles.

Next time you do this, log your ecu temp and see the actual number, also repeat what you did, but this time when you shut your car off for 5 minutes, before you start it again, unselect air temp sensor under bk factory inputs and see if the issue goes away.
I will shoot you an email later when I get some free time and explain it to you better.

 

[genjuice]

The temps you guys are throwing out there are not that high, Mine average 40 to 50 Degrees C, and under extreme conditions I have logged 80 Degrees C and have no issues.
You guys need to go back to your tuners and have them fix your idle control and transient throttle issues.

Disclaimer, first gen ecu's did have circuitry issues.

 

[genjuice]

Well I can tell you the settings from first gen to second gen, generally will not work, its only a percentage here and there, but its enough to cause said issues.
I"m sure from the vin number they would be able to tell you what ECU you have.

 

[genjuice]

The biggest issues I see with transient throttle , is not having your VE table set properly for when it jumps from cell to cell and people not understanding how to properly set their delta load.
As far as idle control, I have seen so many logs with ignition correction pegged because their base duty is so out of whack and I have yet to see any logs that they actually adjust decel rate. The base map decel rate setting is too low, not by much but enough to have to adjust.

 

[genjuice]

Very minor tweak, waiting for you to send log, otherwise its a guessing game. As I told you ealier would rather teach you to do it yourself though, text me later

Sent from my Acer Liquid using AutoGuide App

 

[genjuice]

Theta vs 4b11t
What you need to know is the centerlines on the cams are different, more drastic on the exhaust side , not a big deal with a standalone and a dyno, you can correct it pretty quick. GSC, used the evo centerline specs on the first gen grounds and is what caused all the problems with the stock ecu tuners, they have since gone back to stock hyundai spec centerline and all is good.
125 intake, 115 exhaust I do believe.

Disclaimer, casting interference excluded.

 

[genjuice]

theta

 

[genjuice]

Engine bay heat is directly and proportionately related to high temps of the ecu.
I can be on the dyno for three hours with the hood open and never reaches past 120F , take it off the dyno and drive it on the street I can see 60f plus increase.

 

[genjuice]

Probably the first generation ECU, those things would overheat in Artic!!!

 

[genjuice]

Bingo. It IS a first gen, the two most problematic ones I deal with are first gens, but it's been a slight hassle to get them exchanged :/

But, this still means that although the new ones are revised, they still probably suffer from the same thing. I don't know (and don't think) if the throttle is controlled with stepper, but they should be at least kind of similar, and DC motor drivers running very hot with stepper motor

These components naturally get very hot because of the current required to make them work, so it's only logical to think this is to blame for the widespread overheating of them. You should open up your Haltech (3.5 Allen I think, two of them), and look at the heatsink yourself. They have no seal/gasket to ruin so you can see the insides yourself.

Ya I 100% agree , first gen was primarily an internal issue, had a failure in 15 degree ambient, and burnt my hand on the ECU, (not kidding)
Second gen is much better, only problem is their firmware is limited so I cant get everything perfect because of that.

 

[genjuice]

Let me just say, I love red neck fixes, not kidding