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I am going to give advise for 99% of you reading this.

You don't have to listen to me, but I was in IASCA Judge and used to do stereo's for a living. But haven't done car audio professionally for a few years. So take it with a grain of salt.


The dynamat on the plastic panels? Don't do it. Especially cutting it up to tiny pieces to fit in each spot. wow. you must have been bored.


Don't buy just Sound Deadener and think that's all you need. Don't multi layer a single material.

Sound Deadener (Dynamat or any other butyl mat): 1 layer is more than enough. There's a concept called "diminishing returns." You do not need to be anal about 100% coverage. Put on metal panels. Outer skins should be your priority. Outer doors, roof, floor, trunk. Then inner door metal, rear deck, etc.

Sound Isolation (Dynaliner or mass loaded, closed cell foams): Layer this over the dynamat or on inside of plastic panels. Deadener changes what it is mounted to. Foam creates a barrier, so you have more flexibility on installing it.

Spend the money and buy better materials. I prefer dynamat, others prefer lizard skin, there are even more.

Be very wary about the "home depot" route. I have seen people buy stuff that looks and acts a lot like dynamat. But it's asphalt based stuff that STINKS like hell when you put it in, and every hot day.

You can get cheap 1lb foam (1lb per sq foot) on ebay or some craft/fabric stores. Make sure its a high density. I went with dynaliner because of the self adhesive side, makes installing a lot easier. And spending 2+ hours finding other foam or driving to buy it, was just not worth saving $50 to me.

Don't be the guy that puts 3 layers of dynamat in. Do 1 layer and foam. You will be much happier.

almost 1am, i am tired. I hope what I wrote made sense.


I just got my mats in and will be starting this weekend.

 

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^^ Great advice. I tried Home Depot useal on my old celica and the genny. It doesnt stink. Also got a huge roll of thin black dense foam used as underliner for home flooring. Seems to work ok. And a few cans of GreatStuff. Home Depot ftw.
 

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I am going to give advise for 99% of you reading this.

You don't have to listen to me, but I was in IASCA Judge and used to do stereo's for a living. But haven't done car audio professionally for a few years. So take it with a grain of salt.


The dynamat on the plastic panels? Don't do it. Especially cutting it up to tiny pieces to fit in each spot. wow. you must have been bored.


Don't buy just Sound Deadener and think that's all you need. Don't multi layer a single material.

Sound Deadener (Dynamat or any other butyl mat): 1 layer is more than enough. There's a concept called "diminishing returns." You do not need to be anal about 100% coverage. Put on metal panels. Outer skins should be your priority. Outer doors, roof, floor, trunk. Then inner door metal, rear deck, etc.

Sound Isolation (Dynaliner or mass loaded, closed cell foams): Layer this over the dynamat or on inside of plastic panels. Deadener changes what it is mounted to. Foam creates a barrier, so you have more flexibility on installing it.

Spend the money and buy better materials. I prefer dynamat, others prefer lizard skin, there are even more.

Be very wary about the "home depot" route. I have seen people buy stuff that looks and acts a lot like dynamat. But it's asphalt based stuff that STINKS like hell when you put it in, and every hot day.

You can get cheap 1lb foam (1lb per sq foot) on ebay or some craft/fabric stores. Make sure its a high density. I went with dynaliner because of the self adhesive side, makes installing a lot easier. And spending 2+ hours finding other foam or driving to buy it, was just not worth saving $50 to me.

Don't be the guy that puts 3 layers of dynamat in. Do 1 layer and foam. You will be much happier.

almost 1am, i am tired. I hope what I wrote made sense.


I just got my mats in and will be starting this weekend.


Would love a how-to of your install and what you used. Your picture isn't coming up. I don't mind road noise so much, as the droan of the exhaust that I would love to quite down. Where would the key spot be to deaded the noise some? I'm not going for ultra quiet, but some quite would be nice.
 

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For something simple just get the shark racing sound deadening kit. Killed a lot of the drone for me.
 

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After having just completed this install, here are some things you need to know if you are considering ordering this kit.

#1) You can ask them to include the fender pieces instead of the useless hood liner. YMMV, but they did this swap for me for free.
#2) This kit fits 100% perfectly. If you have to cut a hole, anywhere, you're either not installing it as intended, or they sent you the wrong pieces. Here's the key: the soundproofing pieces fit on existing trim pieces, NOT on the car itself. The door pieces do not go onto the door; they go onto the door panel, once it is completely removed. The trunk piece does not go into the wheel well; it fits on the back side of the existing carpet/mat piece. The trunk hatch piece does not go into the metal of the trunk once the trim piece is removed, it goes on the trim piece itself. The fender liners go on the wheel well liner. The right way to install them is to jack up the car, remove the wheel, remove the liner, clean it, and install the soundproofing material on top of the inside of the liner, then reinstall.

Here's another tip: the door pieces can go on either door, but they obviously only fit one way. Same goes for the fender liners. The trunk bottom piece can be mirror flipped and it will fit either way. The trunk hatch piece, however, will not. It only fits right one way, and it may not be completely obvious until you flip it and try it the other way. If you have it mirror flipped the wrong way, it'll look like it's poorly made and just almost fits. If you flip it the right way, you'll see that everything lines up perfectly.

The difference this kit makes, when properly installed, is amazing.

Here's a picture of the door piece set inside the door panel. This was before I used the adhesive and straightened it out, but you can see that it is cut precisely to match the panel.



Here's one of the fender liner. Again, it matches perfectly.


This look like a great product.
 

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For something simple just get the shark racing sound deadening kit. Killed a lot of the drone for me.
So lets say after a install of a full 3" from turbo back mine is 3" O2, DP, then Injen SES the droan is at a 8 what did this kit cut the droan to?

Like I said i'm not looking for ultra quiet because I know i'm increasing the performance and there are pros and cons to it in this case the droan with the 3" exhaust. But, if I can get it back to almost stock i'm golden with that.
 

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Yeah under accel alot, but I think its because of the 3" tusudo even with the resonator there. Its not pull your hair out, but I was cruising up to PA this past weekend and getting up around the 80 mph and 90 it started to get alittle annoying.

I mean i bought it used, but I can't beleive that all the packing is worn out already.
 

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It's your speed, that's not drone. That's a 3" exhaust dude. It's going to be loud. Every exhaust on here is going to be loud at 80-90. The shark kit helped a lot but it's still not going to get rid of the exhaust noise at 80-90.
 

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It's your speed, that's not drone. That's a 3" exhaust dude. It's going to be loud. Every exhaust on here is going to be loud at 80-90. The shark kit helped a lot but it's still not going to get rid of the exhaust noise at 80-90.
Cool, I think I will give this a shot, time to save some more money!
 

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Would love a how-to of your install and what you used. Your picture isn't coming up. I don't mind road noise so much, as the droan of the exhaust that I would love to quite down. Where would the key spot be to deaded the noise some? I'm not going for ultra quiet, but some quite would be nice.
The exhaust noise is almost exclusively from the rear. I would do under the rear seats back through the trunk floor. That is my last section to do. But I will be posting pics here where I do it.

I started a stereo thread to keep everyone up to date on how I am doing mine. First step is dynamat/liner, so you can see it there.

My Stereo Thread
 

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Would anyone who has installed the shark racing pads for some time now be able to give us an update on how they are holding up. I'm worried the wheel wells will get water logged and get moldy with time.
 

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Would anyone who has installed the shark racing pads for some time now be able to give us an update on how they are holding up. I'm worried the wheel wells will get water logged and get moldy with time.
My kit is holding up well. Sadly I haven't had the energy to go do my wheel wells yet but I don't see how they would get water logged being that they are on the other side of the wheel well. They in no way come into contact with the wheel etc..
 

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The exhaust noise is almost exclusively from the rear. I would do under the rear seats back through the trunk floor. That is my last section to do. But I will be posting pics here where I do it.

I started a stereo thread to keep everyone up to date on how I am doing mine. First step is dynamat/liner, so you can see it there.

My Stereo Thread
So after reading your thread, I'm thinking that a cross of the shark pad system and dynamat on the floor might do the trick, my question is. You are using dynamat, and dynalyner. I was thinking of the dynapad they have listed on their site, I am assuming they want you to use this in conjunction of the dynamat correct?

If so I'm thinking this would give me the result i'm looking for, as I said i'm not looking for ultra quite but some would be nice.
 

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So after reading your thread, I'm thinking that a cross of the shark pad system and dynamat on the floor might do the trick, my question is. You are using dynamat, and dynalyner. I was thinking of the dynapad they have listed on their site, I am assuming they want you to use this in conjunction of the dynamat correct?

If so I'm thinking this would give me the result i'm looking for, as I said i'm not looking for ultra quite but some would be nice.
Keep in mind, I am an internet nobody, so take this for what you will. I personally try to reduce road noise and rattles. Exhaust is something I want to hear. You'll never hear it on the highway over a couple good subwoofers.

Yes, use Dynapad over Dynamat. Read this. At the very bottom it says "Common applications include: high
performance exhaust noise ...."

Dynapad is great, but it's 1/2" thick. The thickness and price is the reason I passed on it. I used the 1/4" dynaliner which isn't as effective, but it fit under the molded carpet extremely well, and it's about 1/3 the price.

Dynapads come in 12 sqft. I used around 18 sqft of liner just on floor. Back seats and trunk will run you at least another 18 sqft. Then are you going to do doors or roof?

With Dynamat, I used 33 sqft just for the floor. So keep that in mind, too.

After re reading your posts, I'll give you 3 suggestions, not sure on your budget. You'll never get it back to stock. Stock our cars have a lot of road noise. Doing this will reduce exhaust (still louder than factory) and reduce road noise (less than factory).

~$500
2 bulk back dynamat. Lay full sheets in trunk, and under rear seats. It will be sparse, so try to get coverage over larger panels.
2 Dynapads over the dynamat in the trunk and rear seats.

~$1000
3 boxes of dynamat. Cover the floor, rear seats, rear wheel wells, trunk, and roof, and door outer panel Focus on doing large pieces in the middle of the panels. You simply won't have enough dynamat to do 100%.
3 DynaPads should cover the floor, rear, and trunk.
3 Dynaliners to cover roof, doors, and side of rear/trunk.
This will reduce a lot of road noise and exhaust.

$1000+ hire someone.
 

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Good to know!! Thanks I have an idea of how i'm going to go about this, like I said if I can reduce the droan just a tad I will be happy and I think the dynapad will work. I read the site and it suggests also removing the factory padding since the dynapad is thicker.

I'm going to line the interior floor with the dynapad only at first, and the trunk with the dynamat and see what that does. I'm think it will reduce to the level I am looking for. I like hearing my exhaust too, its just the droan that gets to me.

Thanks again, you said you may be a no body, but you have experience in this area more than me and that helps alot!!
 

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I am going to give advise for 99% of you reading this.

You don't have to listen to me, but I was in IASCA Judge and used to do stereo's for a living. But haven't done car audio professionally for a few years. So take it with a grain of salt.


The dynamat on the plastic panels? Don't do it. Especially cutting it up to tiny pieces to fit in each spot. wow. you must have been bored.


Don't buy just Sound Deadener and think that's all you need. Don't multi layer a single material.

Sound Deadener (Dynamat or any other butyl mat): 1 layer is more than enough. There's a concept called "diminishing returns." You do not need to be anal about 100% coverage. Put on metal panels. Outer skins should be your priority. Outer doors, roof, floor, trunk. Then inner door metal, rear deck, etc.

Sound Isolation (Dynaliner or mass loaded, closed cell foams): Layer this over the dynamat or on inside of plastic panels. Deadener changes what it is mounted to. Foam creates a barrier, so you have more flexibility on installing it.

Spend the money and buy better materials. I prefer dynamat, others prefer lizard skin, there are even more.

Be very wary about the "home depot" route. I have seen people buy stuff that looks and acts a lot like dynamat. But it's asphalt based stuff that STINKS like hell when you put it in, and every hot day.

You can get cheap 1lb foam (1lb per sq foot) on ebay or some craft/fabric stores. Make sure its a high density. I went with dynaliner because of the self adhesive side, makes installing a lot easier. And spending 2+ hours finding other foam or driving to buy it, was just not worth saving $50 to me.

Don't be the guy that puts 3 layers of dynamat in. Do 1 layer and foam. You will be much happier.

almost 1am, i am tired. I hope what I wrote made sense.


I just got my mats in and will be starting this weekend.


I too was an IASCA judge and in the car audio industry for 23 years. I must have put in thousands of sq ft of deading material over the years and I agree with what you are saying. I plan on applying a layer of Stinger material to my car soon.

One question I was going to ask here and I have had many debates with people on other forums over the years is "Has anyone done an actual test to confirm how well a product works?" So has anyone on this forum done that? The reason I ask such a thing is because it is important to know when shopping for anything how well it actually works compared to other products designed for the same purpose. Sorry guys but the human is ear far from perfect and not a good tool to use to measure volume.

How to test. A test vehicle is needed that has no extra form of sound deadening material added to it. Along with a db meter. Drive the car around without the radio playing and windows close. Take measurements of the decibel levels in the car...say cruising at 55, at idle, and under acceleration. Then install the product and repeat the test in the same fashion. It is rather simple and gives an accurate measurement of how well a product works. If a dealer for the product could do this or know the information it will help with sales of the product. Personally I never believe a salesman that tells me "It works, I know it works." I always ask "How do you know?"
 

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Good to know!! Thanks I have an idea of how i'm going to go about this, like I said if I can reduce the droan just a tad I will be happy and I think the dynapad will work. I read the site and it suggests also removing the factory padding since the dynapad is thicker.

I'm going to line the interior floor with the dynapad only at first, and the trunk with the dynamat and see what that does. I'm think it will reduce to the level I am looking for. I like hearing my exhaust too, its just the droan that gets to me.

Thanks again, you said you may be a no body, but you have experience in this area more than me and that helps alot!!
They recommend removing the factory padding because often the car will not go back together properly due to the extra thickness. Personally I keep all the OEM padding in place and remove the Dyanpad where it is too thick. I do this because on some OEM carpets the padding holds the shape of the carpet and some vehicles the carpet is rather thin and gets ratty when you remove the backing pad.

If you are using the adhesive backed Dynamat or similar product it is a good idea to get the wood roller installation tool. Make sure whatever you are applying the material to is very clean. Use a high quality lacquer thinner or alcohol. Low quality will leave behind a reside and not evaporate quickly. Then heat the adhesive side before laying it down. You can do that with a heat gun or leave the material laying in the sun adhesive side up. Once you lay it down use the wood roller to work the material into place and get a solid bond to the body of the car. Also the material is really only needed on body panels that are exposed to the exterior...like the floor of the car and outer door skins.
 

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If you are using the adhesive backed Dynamat or similar product it is a good idea to get the wood roller installation tool. Make sure whatever you are applying the material to is very clean. Use a high quality lacquer thinner or alcohol. Low quality will leave behind a reside and not evaporate quickly. Then heat the adhesive side before laying it down. You can do that with a heat gun or leave the material laying in the sun adhesive side up. Once you lay it down use the wood roller to work the material into place and get a solid bond to the body of the car. Also the material is really only needed on body panels that are exposed to the exterior...like the floor of the car and outer door skins.
:gc-smiley-sign-i-ag Great advise, bit overkill for most.

Definately order with a WOOD roller. I buy from ebay, some include no roller, some plastic rollers, they break.

Roller and utility is only thing really needed. While yes, wiping it down, and heating it up is for best case scenario, I have found dynamat extreme that isn't years old will pretty much stick to anything. I honestly didn't wipe it down, and only heated it up in weird corners/angles that I could not use a roller on effectively. But again, my car is a 2012 so a 2009 or something may have more dirt/dust/carpet fibers. Anything hidden by carpet you should be able to wipe with paper towel and water for the most part. Use knife to cut it and to pop any bubbles then roll them down. Don't be afraid to change blades often, The aluminum backing dulls them quick.

And he is 100% correct only only using on exterior panels, unless you replace speakers. Then I would also do panels those are attached to. If you have a sub, rear deck and some interior panels will be needed to help keep vibration down.
 

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I too was an IASCA judge and in the car audio industry for 23 years. I must have put in thousands of sq ft of deading material over the years and I agree with what you are saying. I plan on applying a layer of Stinger material to my car soon.

One question I was going to ask here and I have had many debates with people on other forums over the years is "Has anyone done an actual test to confirm how well a product works?" So has anyone on this forum done that? The reason I ask such a thing is because it is important to know when shopping for anything how well it actually works compared to other products designed for the same purpose. Sorry guys but the human is ear far from perfect and not a good tool to use to measure volume.

How to test. A test vehicle is needed that has no extra form of sound deadening material added to it. Along with a db meter. Drive the car around without the radio playing and windows close. Take measurements of the decibel levels in the car...say cruising at 55, at idle, and under acceleration. Then install the product and repeat the test in the same fashion. It is rather simple and gives an accurate measurement of how well a product works. If a dealer for the product could do this or know the information it will help with sales of the product. Personally I never believe a salesman that tells me "It works, I know it works." I always ask "How do you know?"
When I am done with my car, I will try to find a bone stock R Spec and I will measure the differences. I would be curious on this, too.
 
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