Someone did on this forum I am sure of it but I cannot locate the thread. I was actually considering it at one point as well but then decided against it. I really wish I had more info
Has anyone swapped a rear pumpkin w/ a 2.0 manual yet?
I read up on it and I think I want to try it out and I want to know has anyone just swapped out an entire pumpkin?
Is it a simple process to just swap the pumpkins? No gear set up required or anything?
Our the LSD's in the 2.0 and the 3.8 identical? Like I said I want to just swap the entire pumpkin.
What about the speedometer, does it need to be adjusted?
Thanks.
Is it a simple process to just swap the pumpkins? No gear set up required or anything?
Our the LSD's in the 2.0 and the 3.8 identical? Like I said I want to just swap the entire pumpkin.
What about the speedometer, does it need to be adjusted?
Thanks.
1 - 20 of 47 Posts
dealership may be replacing my LSD, maybe I can get them to order a 3.8 FD and replace it? =) But yeah, more info would be greatly appreciated.
subscribed. I've heard about it, but search doesn't pull up anything relevant. There's a mix of V6 and turbo 4's out here, and I brought it up at a meet, but I'd love to know the pros/cons for both powerplants.
I did, and did a write up of a 2.0 track in a 2.0 base (you can just ignore the opening pumkin part), but I am waiting on tech exchange to publish it (maybe if you bug them they will get it done faster lol, it has been up for a good 4 weeks now). The speed sensor is on the wheel/rotor itself, so no change there. IIRC, the 3.8 and the 2.0 are transferable, they have a differnt final drive's, but nothing different you have to do, just be aware of it and how it will affect performance/shift points ect.
IMO, the ring gear swapping ect was very easy, maybe took 30 mins. Getting the pumpkin off was the hardest part lol. I gave it a 9/10 for me on difficulty, but a 6/10 for anyone with experience, and a 4/10 for those with the right tools, a car lift, and experience.
IMO, the ring gear swapping ect was very easy, maybe took 30 mins. Getting the pumpkin off was the hardest part lol. I gave it a 9/10 for me on difficulty, but a 6/10 for anyone with experience, and a 4/10 for those with the right tools, a car lift, and experience.
shorter gearing would really improve the 3.8 acceleration. First year 2.0T autos had ~4.10:1, thats a bit insane for a 3.8 manual but the 2.0T manual (3.9:1) or the 3.8 auto (3.7:1) would be interesting.
WELLLL Tell ya what after my car gets out of the shop... IF it gets out of the shop. I might be willing to switch with ya to see what it does. Call me, we'll have to discuss more if I get my car back 
TF, we have the same diff gears! But I am looking for a 2.0 w/ LSD to swap w/ now in Texas.
What happened to your car?
What happened to your car?
The 2.0 gearing would be beneficial for the 3.8, but as far as understand the 3.8 gearing would only be truly beneficial for the 2.0 if there is a significant power increase or the person is worried about their top speed run, which most of us are not. The reason I said there would have to be a significant power increase is because the longer gears would help someone who is having trouble getting power to the ground.
Correct me if I am wrong, but I had a long convo with my uncle about this, because I picked up an LSD from a 3.8 but not the ring gear, so i wanted to know if it was worth it to wait for 3.8 gearing.
Correct me if I am wrong, but I had a long convo with my uncle about this, because I picked up an LSD from a 3.8 but not the ring gear, so i wanted to know if it was worth it to wait for 3.8 gearing.
It's a matter of opinion but some some feel that once modified the first 3 gears of the 2.0 are too short limiting performance. On top of that they seem to suffer a bit in the mpg department.
Plus there are several 300+ hp 2.0s. Heck I saw one at 497! I have a lowly 245hp and will probably be done by 265hp unless someone builds an affordable FI kit. Trust me when I say, if I had 350+ hp I would never consider the gear swap.
Plus there are several 300+ hp 2.0s. Heck I saw one at 497! I have a lowly 245hp and will probably be done by 265hp unless someone builds an affordable FI kit. Trust me when I say, if I had 350+ hp I would never consider the gear swap.
So are you saying that you removed the pumpkin, opened it up, and swapped just the ring gear inside and that was all?I did, and did a write up of a 2.0 track in a 2.0 base (you can just ignore the opening pumkin part), but I am waiting on tech exchange to publish it (maybe if you bug them they will get it done faster lol, it has been up for a good 4 weeks now). The speed sensor is on the wheel/rotor itself, so no change there. IIRC, the 3.8 and the 2.0 are transferable, they have a differnt final drive's, but nothing different you have to do, just be aware of it and how it will affect performance/shift points ect.
IMO, the ring gear swapping ect was very easy, maybe took 30 mins. Getting the pumpkin off was the hardest part lol. I gave it a 9/10 for me on difficulty, but a 6/10 for anyone with experience, and a 4/10 for those with the right tools, a car lift, and experience.
Thanks.
that is what I am saying. I would post the link but it is blocked unless you are a tech exchange writer until they publish it.
here is a pic though
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The LSD on the left, and the open diff on the right. I took the ring gear off the open, and put it on the lsd. The seller ziptied the races so I don't confuse the sides if you are wondering what that is about.
Though I had to shim it differently, that took about 5 mins to find a good shim since it came with a shim kit, then varify it had a good pattern and check backlash, so maybe closer to an hour or two (as I had to clean the old gasket off and a few other things as well are involved). Though I just remember this being by far the easiest part of the swap for me.
here is a pic though
The LSD on the left, and the open diff on the right. I took the ring gear off the open, and put it on the lsd. The seller ziptied the races so I don't confuse the sides if you are wondering what that is about.
Though I had to shim it differently, that took about 5 mins to find a good shim since it came with a shim kit, then varify it had a good pattern and check backlash, so maybe closer to an hour or two (as I had to clean the old gasket off and a few other things as well are involved). Though I just remember this being by far the easiest part of the swap for me.
That would be the way to go if I could track down a different ring gear.
But apparently swapping the entire pumpkin is super cake and requires no set up or disassembly at all.
Any aftermarket companies that specialize in just a ring gear I wonder? would that require a different matching pinion as well?
But apparently swapping the entire pumpkin is super cake and requires no set up or disassembly at all.
Any aftermarket companies that specialize in just a ring gear I wonder? would that require a different matching pinion as well?
I think it is a matching ring and pinon. Swapping the ring is cake, the pinion.... not so much. As you need a seal puller to get the pinion out and have to mess with freeload and it probably isn't too hard, but having the right tools will make it MUCH easier.
And I am just saying from my experience, swapping the ring gear was cake, swaping the pumpkin was quite a hassle as you still need to pull all the suspension and axles and take the old pumpkin off. Though if you have the right tools and a lift this could be easy. Trying to balance a pumpkin on a jack while lowering it and pulling it out is easier said than done even with help. Sometimes getting an axle out can be easy, sometimes it can be almost impossible, so it really all depends on a case by case basis on how easy or hard it is.
And I am just saying from my experience, swapping the ring gear was cake, swaping the pumpkin was quite a hassle as you still need to pull all the suspension and axles and take the old pumpkin off. Though if you have the right tools and a lift this could be easy. Trying to balance a pumpkin on a jack while lowering it and pulling it out is easier said than done even with help. Sometimes getting an axle out can be easy, sometimes it can be almost impossible, so it really all depends on a case by case basis on how easy or hard it is.
Doesn't look bad. I could knock that out in a day or two.
Any suggestions on where I can buy the OEM sized 3.90 gears?
Thanks.
Any suggestions on where I can buy the OEM sized 3.90 gears?
Thanks.
Price on the 3.90 ring and pinion that I desire is $474 new from HyundaiParts4Less.
I'm seriously considering this mod as I just find this stock gearing too long legged. I actually doubt that all except for the longest road trips that I will lose any mpg at all.
I understand that RRM did the swap as well and that the car was only marginally faster in the 1/4 mile but I don't think that gives the true scenario of how the car will function between the gears. I've regeared motorcycles and noticed little difference in 1/4 mile times but a huge difference pulling out of turns and basically everywhere else.
Anyone else that I can contact for more information on this swap?
Will it effect my TCS in any way?
I understand that there will be no difference in my speedometer or odometer correct?
I guess the entire pumpkin has to come out to swap these parts?
Any info at all is REALLY appreciated.
I'm seriously considering this mod as I just find this stock gearing too long legged. I actually doubt that all except for the longest road trips that I will lose any mpg at all.
I understand that RRM did the swap as well and that the car was only marginally faster in the 1/4 mile but I don't think that gives the true scenario of how the car will function between the gears. I've regeared motorcycles and noticed little difference in 1/4 mile times but a huge difference pulling out of turns and basically everywhere else.
Anyone else that I can contact for more information on this swap?
Will it effect my TCS in any way?
I understand that there will be no difference in my speedometer or odometer correct?
I guess the entire pumpkin has to come out to swap these parts?
Any info at all is REALLY appreciated.
Yea, the pumpkin (differential case) has to come off regardless, and yes it has to be opened to swap R&P. The speed sensor is on the wheel so your speedo should* be fine and it shouldn't* effect TCS.
*Electronis can be wierd and who knows what would happen.
Though others have done it before, so maybe they will chime in with how it did or did not affect anything.
*Electronis can be wierd and who knows what would happen.
Though others have done it before, so maybe they will chime in with how it did or did not affect anything.
I switch out my 2010’s base 3.8’s differential two months ago with a stock rear-end from a 2.0T, 4.2:1 fdg. I do feel the difference but traction is now even more of a problem.
It took about three hours and is a very straight forward switch, with two people, the right tools and a floor jack. Be careful not to damage the seals.
I won’t know till the local drag strip opens on April 2nd for test & tune if there is actually any real difference from the ¼ mile times.
For example, in Edmund’s Insideline.com they reviewed … “ the stock 3.8 did a quarter-mile in 14.5 seconds at 97.9 mph & 3.8 Track ran the 1/4 in 14.1 @ 99.3.”
But so far, based just on my experience on the streets the last two months, I’m satisfied with the performance. I have not noticed any down side yet.
It took about three hours and is a very straight forward switch, with two people, the right tools and a floor jack. Be careful not to damage the seals.
I won’t know till the local drag strip opens on April 2nd for test & tune if there is actually any real difference from the ¼ mile times.
For example, in Edmund’s Insideline.com they reviewed … “ the stock 3.8 did a quarter-mile in 14.5 seconds at 97.9 mph & 3.8 Track ran the 1/4 in 14.1 @ 99.3.”
But so far, based just on my experience on the streets the last two months, I’m satisfied with the performance. I have not noticed any down side yet.
1 - 20 of 47 Posts
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