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Stance A Make Her Dance
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone,

Soon, if all goes well, I found a trade for leather interior for my 2010 2.0T Coupe. I had origional cloth seats without heated seats just FYI

Now i saw around the forum of one member who installed heated seats in his 2013 but i did not see his wiring process. It is a tad to late on this Saturday evening to call Hyundai or search wiring diagrams. I wanted little bit of assistance to see if anyone has done the swap.

I wanted to use the origional heated seat switches for cleanness of install. Im usually pretty good with electrical but i just wanted to know where i should be sourcing these wires from. I havent seen a heated seat switch yet so i dont know how many wires there will be here.

Is it just 12V, ground to the switch, and a power wire from the switch to the seat or is there more to it?

Any assistance will be greatly appreciated.
 

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FS section ravager
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2,183 Posts
i know the 13's use switches integrated into the HVAC controls, is it the same for pre 13?

But its just 12V - fuse - switch - ground
 

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Stance A Make Her Dance
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242 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ya, wasnt really comparing to the 2013's but theres a thread on the forum where a member installed heated seats into his 2013 with an aftermarket auxillary switch (which i do not want to do). I want to use the 2010-2012 switch that is located on the sifter panel.

I presumed that the switch would run to a Fuse Tap which i'd buy, patching into the Heated Seat's fuse location on the drivers side fuse panel. then run a wire from the fuse tap to the seats.

I wanted to see if any member had done this swap before and if anyone had info/tips on the switch/wiring configuration.
 

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FS section ravager
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Ah, didn't know the location of the 10-12s switch.
Oh, i did forget to say you should use a relay with a fuse tap so you don't drain your battery.
"But but my mourning warm ass..."
 

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Stance A Make Her Dance
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242 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ah, didn't know the location of the 10-12s switch.
Oh, i did forget to say you should use a relay with a fuse tap so you don't drain your battery.
"But but my mourning warm ass..."
What would be the purpose of the relay? Is that how they run stock? And where would i end up patching in the relay in the circut?
 

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FS section ravager
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2,183 Posts
If the fuse is live, then you should be ok.

Relays are used so you can use a low current wire for on/off, and run the higher current wires to the seat itself.

Basically, you don't want high current wire running all around your car, so u use a relay to reduce the amount of high current wiring.
 

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Stance A Make Her Dance
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242 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
But wouldn't the relay essentially become two switches? From what i saw on the forum, Hyundai from the factory seems to use the same 22 guage wire for the whole system. If power to the origional circut would go from the Switch > Driver Side Fuse Box > Seat then i should probably be ok just runnign the same circut as they would have origionally? I dont believe there are any relays on the interior fuse box, therefore i highly doubt hyundai ran one origionally. I want to match what would have been in there if the car had origional heated seats.
 

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FS section ravager
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It would, but its generally safer.

I think most people use thinker gauging, IIRC snoopy uses 16 or 18 gauge, (cant remember)
 

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Stance A Make Her Dance
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Oh I deffinatly would NOT be using 22 guage. Deffinatly 16 with that much current.
 

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I'd rather do it myself
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19,606 Posts
The <13's use a 10A fuse for each seat, no relay. The power goes right through the switches.

The 13's use the AC controls for the switch that fires a seat warmer module on each seat. These share a common 15A fuse.
 

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Stance A Make Her Dance
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The <13's use a 10A fuse for each seat, no relay. The power goes right through the switches.

The 13's use the AC controls for the switch that fires a seat warmer module on each seat. These share a common 15A fuse.
Thanks for the info ReD! Do you happen to know how the circuit works originally?

If there's no relay, I presume the circuit would run:

12+ constant Source from fuse box (10 amp driver side box) > Switch > when switch is activated, 12V+ goes to seat > extra Green wire from underneath the seat harness runs back to the green wire on the switch. Switch and seat are individually grounded.

Am I on the right track?
 

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I'd rather do it myself
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19,606 Posts
There's two fuses for the seat heaters. I would assume they are only hot in run. If I was adding this I would use a relay that feeds both switches and comes on when the car is in run. Then each seat is feed through it's switch. 14 ga wire from the relay to switches to seats. 12ga to feed the power leg of the relay, 16 ga to feed the relay coil legs. 14 ga for the seat heater grounds.

Or using the switches to ground two individual relays, one for each seat, then the seats 12v+ are feed off the relays. This way the switch wiring can be all 16ga relay coil ground wires and no large current loads go through them.
 

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Stance A Make Her Dance
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242 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I may be reading your method wrong Red, but why would you not feed it though the higher capacity of the relay instead?

The constant hot would go into the 30 Pin on the relay. Then by activating the switch (Which would connect to the 86 Pin), power is sent out to the seat through the 87 Pin on the relay.

Thereby the relay handles all power distribution where as the switch is merely a 12V trigger to activate the relay. And there will become a seperate relay harness for each seat, ran individually from both fuse taps.

Then each relay is grounded, the seat is grounded to the rail, and then each switch is individually grounded.
 

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I'd rather do it myself
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That's what the last of the two methods I listed would do.

Basically one sends high current 12v+ through the switches like the OEM is or the other way is low current ground through the switches. Safer IMHO.
 

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Stance A Make Her Dance
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Im going to try to find origional wiring diagrams from Hyundai tomorrow to see what the pinouts look like for the origional switch.
 

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I'd rather do it myself
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It's a six pin connector.

Pin 1 is 12v+ hot in run, going through a 10A fuse
Pin 2 is 12v- for the switch illumination
Pin 3 is switch 12v+ to feed the led indicator, jumpered from the switch output pin 4
Pin 4 is switch 12v+ to the seat heater
Pin 5 is 12v- for the led indicator
Pin 6 is switched 12v+ for the switch illumination
 

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Stance A Make Her Dance
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242 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
It's a six pin connector.

Pin 1 is 12v+ hot in run, going through a 10A fuse
Pin 2 is 12v- for the switch illumination
Pin 3 is switch 12v+ to feed the led indicator, jumpered from the switch output pin 4
Pin 4 is switch 12v+ to the seat heater
Pin 5 is 12v- for the led indicator
Pin 6 is switched 12v+ for the switch illumination
THANKS! Just on the track i was looking for. Im going to have to trace where these wires run to.

Pin 1 - I will find 12V+ hot to plug here to power the switch
Pin 2- Ground this 12V - to some ground metal around the shifter consol
Pin 3- I believe connects to the green wire that comes out of the harness underneat the seat (Green Wire)
Pin 4 - Will be the switched 12V+ power to the relay on pin 86 instead
Pin 5 - Ill ground them together with Pin 2
Pin 6 - Im guessing i need to find switched 12V+ like wires that come on with the interior lights on? Correct?
 

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I'd rather do it myself
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Yes for the pin 6. Pin 4 has two wires, one goes to the seat heater 12v+ and one jumpered to pin 3.

In your case it goes to the relay coil 12v+.
 

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Stance A Make Her Dance
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242 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Yes for the pin 6. Pin 4 has two wires, one goes to the seat heater 12v+ and one jumpered to pin 3.

In your case it goes to the relay coil 12v+.
So then after all connections are made ill run a seperate wire and splice 3 & 4 together.

And actually, 12V+ is coming from pin 4, then when i end up jumping the wires from 4 to 3, i wont even need to find a switched 12V+ for 3 because it will get power from pin 4. Correct?
 

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I'd rather do it myself
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No. The led indicator is separate from the 12v illumination. The illumination is on when the lights are on and the indicator is on when the switch is on.
 
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