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Discussion Starter #1
Hello Gencoupe community

I could use some help diagnosing what i belie is low and a bit erratic boost on
2010 2.0T A/T Premium (the slowest of the bunch) with 120k miles

So, I'm getting either 10 - 12.6 psi tops according to torque, that tappers down as the RPM grow
I believe it should hit up to ~14 peak stock correct?


What was checked on the car:

- No cels, I'm scanning the car and longing using torque

I *do* have 2 pending faults caused by Dynojet CMD, these are not 'active' but pending TIP and MAP low voltage errors generated when car is woken up before engine start.

Since these are pending they don't cause Limp mode


- Changed all vacuum hoses, looked for Vacuum loss

None found

- It had multiple boost leaks

Here is vid of Boost test as it had a massive DV valve leak (now fixed with an aftermarket DV valve)




I still have a small leak on PCV valve (got 3 OEM spares all of them leak same way).
I have a industrial type of valve (ready, there is a thread on this that i created) but it causes Idle RPM fluctuation due to valve being 'default' closed while OEM is 'default' opens

1 small leak pending fix but i need a lathe to make a custom part

- Cleaned all sensors and verified MAP against mechanical barometer



At this time I'm starting to believe its the ECU being over protective, although i do have two theories:

1.) I noticed the temp gauge does *not* sit right in the middle but one increment on the cold side

Torque says my coolant running temps are between 85 Celsius (185f) to 96 Celsius (204f), on a cit colder day with longer aggressive driving.

I do not know what should be the running coolant temp probably exactly what i have but the dashboard coolant gauge got me thinking. Maybe its reading low on temperature and the ECU limits boosts due to 'not fully warmed up car'?

Can any user check the temps via torque on theirs and tell me when if the gauge sits right in the middle once its fully in operating temp ?


2.) Wastgate spring is softer due to age and is preventing achieving higher boos (flapper opens).

I cant check this, but it would make sense... i don't want to mess with it to much until i get WB installed (this will take a while), but I'm out of Ideas i may crank it up a bit to see if that helps *After* ill deal with that pesky PCV

Any other ideas are welcomed
 

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Coolant temp is OK. I believe the ECU uses the oil temp and it's around 150F but changes through the years.

What is your elevation and what is the highest boost you have ever seen? Air temp makes a difference too as the little turbo struggles with very cold air to get very high boost.

And what BOV? If you bypass the BOV solenoid and run the BOV off straight intake vacuum, that takes the ECU out of the question as far as regulating boost with the BOV (which it does).
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Coolant temp is OK. I believe the ECU uses the oil temp and it's around 150F but changes through the years.
I'm assuming the temp gauge is coolant ? in your case does it sits in the middle ?
I'll need to log Oil temps then to check this.


What is your elevation and what is the highest boost you have ever seen? Air temp makes a difference too as the little turbo struggles with very cold air to get very high boost.
- Elevation is ~984 feet. (~300) above see level
- highest boost i seen once was 13.X just before testing the solenoids testing (they do hold up so just put them back together)


And what BOV? If you bypass the BOV solenoid and run the BOV off straight intake vacuum, that takes the ECU out of the question as far as regulating boost with the BOV (which it does).
- It's this DV valve from polish company seems it holds
https://blow-off.pl/dv/diverter-valve-typ-dvv-dv-renault-megane-fluence-gt-volo-kia-properfekt

- It is ran from stock solenoid
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
On the BK1 the coolant temp gauge is worthless. Have you ever diddled with the waste gate arm length?
Not yet although i do plant this as a step once i ran out of ideas, basically I'm presuming the spring may got weaken a bit and just lets boost go.

To be honest it may also be the DV spring - they they didn't provide any rating for the one that is installed. The seller just gave one for low and another for High pressure

@Red Raspberry do you know if our cars DV valve is by default opend (spring compressed) when the car is off?
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
I haven't had the stock one on in years so don't know.
Ok i was seeing the 'high' boost just after installing new DV so the spring in it was not worn in yet , then the car sat for 2 months (winter and a lot of snow - i don't have snow tires for it yet)

Now i see less of boost

- IF the default DV position is open (engine off), then the spring inside is constantly compressed.

I may just see the effect of spring getting worn in, just due fact its constantly compressed. Ill check in a bit but if there is vacuum in the lines of DV valve when engine is off - then this may be the reason.

At least an idea to look at
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
I haven't had the stock one on in years so don't know.
Quite possible i just found one of causes of my problems.
Didn't have a chance to check the sensor with multi meter yet but if this PID is correct this would mean:

- Maximal safe boost cut (low boost)
- Literally no cam advancement (?)
- My piss poor 15~18 mpg fuel economy with really conservative driving (maybe just a little balls to the wall at times :))

 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Looks like the lower limit default for a bad sender.


Ok but in my case it OTS (Oil Temperature Sensor), ECTS seems to be fine as I'm getting 86-96 Celsius of coolant. Seems ECU uses both OTS and ECTS to deduct how it needs to operate.

Ill check this in the morning (midnight in my place)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I checked the sensor with Multi-meter

- Morning before startup 4.8 k ohm
- After commute to work 0.22 k ohm

So the sensor it self is ok either i have a connector issue, loom issue, ECU issue or the PID i got is giving crap reading ;/
And i hoped this will be as easy as as shot sensor ;/
 

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In the past I have had a hard time with the CVVT PID. My Motorola Maxx would always give me a reading similar to that -48C. The OBDII adapter too can cause the same thing if they are the cheaper type. OBDLink LX is a fast and good adapter.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
In the past I have had a hard time with the CVVT PID. My Motorola Maxx would always give me a reading similar to that -48C. The OBDII adapter too can cause the same thing if they are the cheaper type. OBDLink LX is a fast and good adapter.
Well I'm using Vgate iCar 3 Wi-Fi OBDII now, maybe ill get a chance to try out friends OBDLink SX (STN1100 chip).
If that proves PID was giving crap reading (i.e. suddenly i see correct cvvt temp), ill guess no other choice than splash out for something better like said OBDLink LX 427201

That would mean back to square one though :)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Ok so the Wiring loom and the ECU plug are OK .

So this means most likely PID is wrong, ill double check with other cable or at dealership if the reading is in fact ok
There is a high chance for this though

So its basically back to square one:
- I'm waiting for stronger DV spring.
- I need to weld up a small jig to actually test spring brake pressure for DV valve.

Since torque doesn't give the ability to check DV valve duty cycle, i may wire some small 12v led (for low amp rating - don't want to burn up ECU) to DV solenoid
This is to verify if the ECU is trying to cut the boost or not, if it lights up on WOT run - this means ECU is trying to be a nany and no stronger springs will help
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Torque also has a scan plugin that will look for all PIDs it can see. I can see a waste gate duty cycle with Torque I think. Not using the car right now.
This is true i downloaded small plugin for Hyundai pids and the WG is there
i was not aware of scanning ability ill try this out soon

by the way Red do you know how the boost acted on 1 st/ 2nd / 3rd gear ?
Is controlled boost by gear meaning lower gears get lower boost while higher get max allowed?

Something like torque limiting by gear?
 

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The AT probably has torque limiting, there should be a calculated HP value you can look at. I have a manual so boost is basically the same in all gears though the lower gears it happens quite fast so it's hard to tell if there is any lag.

Have you though about getting a throttle controller? They are very effective at making things happen quicker.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Have you though about getting a throttle controller? They are very effective at making things happen quicker.
At some point yes, but not before i get a healthy baseline stock to start from. So as per what you say i may expect lower torque / boost in 1st and 2nd gear - 3rd 4th 5th should be maxed out (and i kind of do see that difference as 1,2 was i believe 11 psi while 4ht 5th was 12.6)

Seems i need someone with auto to log boost vs rpm vs gear

Any way good info - i just got the DV spring, ill try to weld up a test plate today to actually check the DV opening pressures.
 
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