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Great to see someone else utilize the Genesis for SQ. I competed in MECA as a Master in SQ.
We built pods on the dash for a set of Morel Virtus 603's. Tweets and mids in the pods and the 6.5 in the door. 2 Arc Audio 2075SE ran the system, one to the three ways with the factory passive crossovers and the other bridged to a Morel Ultimo SC10, which later was replaced with an Arc 10.
I kept the factory head unit but used the Arc Audio SRI and a harness from a wrecked Genesis interface it together.
I took state champion in masters here in Az and had planned to go to Worlds but funds ran short.
Good luck with your build!

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a.k.a. DevilDog
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6,105 Posts

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844 Posts
What is an LOC (Line Out Converter)?

RCA connections are low voltage AC signal input devices, that provide a shielded cable connection to block out unwanted noise in your system. Speaker wires, from the HU, are fine for tapping to high voltage inputs to amps w/ high gain inputs. However, you can buy LOC's (line out converters) which convert high gain speaker taps to RCA style, low gain inputs for amps. Some LOC's have separate gain controls while others do not. Either is OK. If you have gain controls on your LOC, set them to midpoint and adjust for best over all results.

If you want to convert speaker level signals to low level RCA inputs, LOC's are the ticket. Newer Head designs have speaker feeds and RCA output outputs to feed the amp through shielded wires and RCA type jack connections on the amp. These are best and less prone to noise problems in your audio signal chain.
 

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Hybrid / ARC Audio
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48 Posts
Discussion Starter #65
Loc

Most Amps have RCA line in. Some higher end Amps come with a balanced line connection. In any case you need the source signal to reach the amp so you will need to convert the line to RCA one way or the other. Depending on your budget this solution comes in various forms. Either a new head unit, a signal processor like an Audison Bit One or as you put it an LOC. Depending on your goal and your budget is the solution. I have never purchased a LOC so I can't offer too much help there. If you do not want to change your stock head unit and have the funds I would highly recommend the Audison unit. One thing you did not mention is LINE DRIVERS. These convert the voltage from 1 volt to 8 -10 volts which then send an amplified signal to the AMP which reduces how hard the AMP has to work to amplify the signal
 

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Hybrid / ARC Audio
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48 Posts
Discussion Starter #66 (Edited)
Subwoofer Design



Hybrid Audio Technologies posted this picture on Facebook. I like this design so I am going to use it. The sub is mounted using an Infinite baffle design rather than a sealed enclosure or a ported box. The picture shows (2) 15's which is what I ordered and waiting on to continue the build. I have already created the baffle board and it attaches where the trunk lid struts go. I purchased 50mm 8.25 bolts from ACE Hardware. The concept is to create a barrier between the front cabin and the trunk in order to trap the front wave in the cabin and vent the rear wave out the trunk. I have applied the first layer of the sound deadening material and will be adding the foam soon. I have removed the stock 8 sub and will be installing a board over the hole and the sound deaden the top of the trunk. Using the Infinite baffle design frees up a lot of room since there is not a box and also offers a sonic improvement over a sealed enclosure/ported box since there is no limits placed on the subs, they are more linear
 

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Hybrid / ARC Audio
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48 Posts
Discussion Starter #68
Big 4 upgrade - Hybrid Clarus 15 Subs

I received my subs and my Wirez order of 0AWG , 4AWG , 10AWG speaker and 14AWG speaker along with 4 sets of 3 foot cords. Working on the big 4 upgrade to go with 2 Kinetik 1800 batteries. You all may want to consider a big 4 upgrade. Big 3 runs a positive line to the positive post of the alternator but the big 4 runs one to the back side of the alternator case. This is where the negative current is produced. The bridge rectifier converts AC current into DC. The negative side goes through bolts and brackets before it hits the frame or block which is where your battery gets the ground. By doing this you get both currents delivered to your battery as quick as possible and will produce better results. I installed the 1800 by cutting about 1/4 of the lip on the back of the battery box which allowed the battery to sit flat in the tray and the bracket is attached. The positive terminal is reversed but I solved this by using Wirez terminal fused battery post which has a 0AWG , 4AWG and (2) 8AWG out. I removed the ring connector from the stock battery connection and installed a 4 Stinger Expert series ring terminal to it after running about 2 feet of wire from the battery to the stock connector. So 4 gauge is going to the starter and the alternator using the stock wiring. I have a tee installed in the 0AWG line and one lead goes directly to the Alternator positive bolt that the boot attaches to. The other is for a flex conduit line that runs under the vehicle and ends up in the trunk for the rear 1800 Kinetik
 

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Hybrid / ARC Audio
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48 Posts
Discussion Starter #69
Barrier Board / Baffle Rings

I had a setback in building this piece. The baffle rings cracked in the middle of the board. So I decided to remake them. The subs are 15.25 inches so I made my interior rings that size. There are 4 - 3/4 rings that are glued on the baffle rings. 2 baffle rings with the top ring cut with a rabbet to allow the lip of the sub to lay flush with the two 3/4 baffle rings. All together there is 6 boards making the entire depth 4.5 inches. I plan on increasing the size to 15.75 for the spacer rings so that the sub easily fits and allows me to glass it to add strength. Almost done with this. Once complete then I can make the beauty boards to dress everything and finish the rear deck where I removed the stock sub. Once complete I can move on to install the second 1800 Kinetik.
 

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Hybrid / ARC Audio
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48 Posts
Discussion Starter #70 (Edited)
Power Line to the rear battery

I found a shop locally here that is willing to put my car on a lift and run 0AWG power and ground under the car. I am confident there will be places to run this and have a custom brackets installed to keep everything tight and tied. In order to do this I purchased 1/2 flexible conduit from Home Depot and ran 2 sets of 20 feet 0AGW into 2 sets of conduit. One positive the other negative. These will connect directly into the second battery. The positive line will have a fuse in line close to the second battery. The negative post on the battery has a second 0AWG out that will be connected to the frame. The conduit is aluminum with a heat resistant plastic around it. I am also going to wrap it in braided flex nylon which will add more protection. The trick to do this is to get gravity on your side. The 0AWG feeds easily at first but it is not long before it is really hard to push it through the conduit. The trick is to use gravity to feed it through. In order to do this I got up on my roof and held the conduit on one end and fed the wire down. Easy as can be doing it that way. Connecting the wire to the front battery is simple since I installed 0AGW T blocks up front when I did the big 4 upgrade and have both of them on the drivers side left of the master cylinder. There is a grommet in the trunk that will allow you to bring it in very easily
 

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Hybrid / ARC Audio
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48 Posts
Discussion Starter #71 (Edited)
Wiring Update

Stock battery replaced with a Kinetik 1800 Pro Battery. Positive and negative battery terminals reversed. Battery box modified by cutting the back lip by about 1/4 inch allowing the new battery to be secured with the stock battery bracket. Stock positive battery terminal modified to allow the stock starter and alternator cables to function as designed. Positive and Negative lines have been ran under the vehicle. Both lines are protected with 1/2 conduit wrapped with a nylon braiding and secured by aluminum brackets that are secured to the frame with nut inserts.

Kinetik 1800 with Wirez Signature 0AWG wire and Fused Terminal Distribution Blocks



Stock Positive battery terminal closed cover



Modified Stock Battery Positive Open Cover



Positive and Negative Conduit secured with aluminum brackets and wrapped with nylon braiding



Positive and Negative wires through grommet hole in trunk
 

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152 Posts
When I ran my 1/0 cables I had no issues going through the factory locations and kept everything very flush and ziptied. But I like how this turned out. Keep up the good work
 

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Hybrid / ARC Audio
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48 Posts
Discussion Starter #74 (Edited)
2nd Battery update

Getting ready to install the 2nd battery in the trunk. Should be able to wrap up the power wiring shortly once the battery box and bracket is fabricated for the trunk. Sound deadening will be next, then the amp racks. I have completed the barrier board with the baffle and spacer rings. Used fiberglass to strengthen it along with duraglass. Rage Extreme was the final coat to get it ready for paint. I will be painting the inside of the rings factory black. Lastly I will be installing a few inches of street glow Ultra thin LED blue lights to give some color to the subs
 

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Hybrid / ARC Audio
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48 Posts
Discussion Starter #75
Build Update:

I am almost embarrassed to post an update to this build since I started this a few years back and due to life, its been on the back burner. The good news is that over time you reevaluate what your going to do and sometimes that works out for the best. I am actually not going to do a build with a head unit. I know this sounds crazy but the stock head unit has the Radio GPS and phone functionality so I am going to use this as designed. I have no interest to play the radio or even a CD in the car so I don't need that functionality on the new system. I will not be removing the head unit, amplifier or front speakers. The upgraded build will be using the stock 6 inch speaker placements to place the Hybrid Audio Technology Legatia L8SE. I will need to find a new home for the stock speakers so that the Radio, GPS and phone has speakers.

Source Path:

iPhone 6S will be the source unit that will play Apple Lossless compressed audio and stream with Napster and Tidal. I will be trying out Tidal which offers High RES streaming. I still need to test everything to ensure the signal passes from the iPhone to the L.K.S Audio USB-100 USB Audio Interface Coaxial out with Crystek. (It transfers the signal from USB to Digital Coaxial) . I will need to use Apple's Camera adapter to then connect a USB cable from the camera adapter to the USB digital converter. From the Converter an AudioQuest Cinnamon coaxial cable will plug into the ARC Audio PS8. The PS8 accepts digital in and uses software to adjust all 8 available channels. Slope, Frequency, EQ, Timing and Phase are adjusted using a laptop. The PS8 has an in-dash controller PSC. The PSC allows volume control and the ability to use 3 programmable buttons. Connecting to the PS8 will be 4 sets of Wirez IS3 interconnects and into ARC Audio ALD Balanced Line Driver. This improves the voltage up to 10 volts and offers a CAT5 balanced out. I will be running AudioQuest Cinnamon CAT-7 cables from the ALD unit to the ARC Audio SE Amplifers
 

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Hybrid / ARC Audio
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48 Posts
Discussion Starter #76
Water Leak

Yikes... Fixed.. Turn signals were filling up with water, Dealer replaced left and right side gaskets. So far no leaks, still evaluating.....

Where to start.... LOL lots to do, actually an insane amount to do. By the way I had a quote from 2 different high end Portland shops and both of them were at 30k. Not counting equipment of course. So this is why I am doing this. I am going to start in the trunk.

The truck will be the most work.
  • Sound Deadening
  • Baffle Board
  • Sealing Trunk
  • Clarus 15 inch Sub-woofers
  • Amp boards
  • Battery
  • Fuses
  • ALD
  • PS8
  • USB COAXIAL Converter
  • SE Amplifiers
  • Wiring
  • lighting
  • Beauty Boards
  • Vinyl or Paint
 

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Hybrid / ARC Audio
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48 Posts
Discussion Starter #77
Continuing research:

I have discussed the Big 4 upgrade i previously did on an earlier post. I am running a Kinetic HC1800 up in the engine and also one in the trunk, pictures above, I decided to add some caps so I started researching and found that only SuperCaps are worth installing. Outside of them your wasting your money because the performance between Supercaps and standard audio caps is very extreme.

I have purchased (6) 2.7v 3000 Farad XS Power Ultracapacitors Cells. When you connect them you get 16.2v and 500 Farads. The cells need to be clear from any metal when they are installed. XS Power has other options that have these cells in a battery styled case. I will be building an enclosure to store these and will post pics as I complete
 
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