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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I already know someone is going to say "Search the forums" blah blah. I've done that multiple times.

At high RPM's the car will not go into gear no matter how hard you hulk it, it will not go into gear. I have to pump the clutch peddle a couple times to get it to go in. Low RPM's, no problem.

I've taken the trans out inspected the TOB and slave cylinder (The assembly looks brand new). Flushed the clutch/brake lines. Bled everything got all the gunk out of the clutch line. Clutch itself also looks fine.

I see a lot of posts about synchros and how sh*ty the GC trans is when it comes to faults. I just want to make sure that it is synchros and not a sensor or anything I am missing. Car is not under warranty, I think it has a 100k limited power train but wont know till I call Hyundai tomorrow.

Any other suggestion?
 

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Assuming the slave is OK I would guess the shift linkage is damaged? Are you on a stock clutch? Have you changed the trans fluid?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Assuming the slave is OK I would guess the shift linkage is damaged? Are you on a stock clutch? Have you changed the trans fluid?
Shift linkage seems fine, clutch is stock and trans fluid has not been changed.

Another weird thing that someone might be able to help with is if i am rolling like 5MPH and higher and I rev high my clutch peddle goes extremely soft and i have to pump it a couple of times to get it to give pressure.
 

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Shift linkage seems fine, clutch is stock and trans fluid has not been changed.



Another weird thing that someone might be able to help with is if i am rolling like 5MPH and higher and I rev high my clutch peddle goes extremely soft and i have to pump it a couple of times to get it to give pressure.


If you have to pump the slave cylinder at all, I would consider that suspect. Either the cylinder is bad, or it needs another bleeding. Mine failed at 32K miles, and it was covered under warranty.


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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If you have to pump the slave cylinder at all, I would consider that suspect. Either the cylinder is bad, or it needs another bleeding. Mine failed at 32K miles, and it was covered under warranty.


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I was thinking it was the slave but when we got the trans out it looked soo good. I guess we will just tear it apart again and replace the TOB and Slave and see if that helps. We bled the thing like 10 times, after we put it back together. We bled it, let it warm up drove it a little then bled it again. I think its the slave.
 

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The master cylinder is shared with the brake.as far as a reservoir. There is a clutch cylinder under the dash.
 

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The issue stated above, would you agree that i should replace the slave first or should i replace both?


I would do the slave first. Far more history of those failing. Also, consider the warranty if you’re still within the mileage. Might as well let them pay.


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Yes the save, the clutch cylinder can be changed afterward if there is still a problem.

416052M100 is the part number for the clutch cylinder. fourgreen.com is the place to get it if you need one.
 

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Yes the slave, the clutch cylinder can be changed afterward if there is still a problem.

416052M100 is the part number for the clutch cylinder. fourgreen.com is the place to get it if you need one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I would do the slave first. Far more history of those failing. Also, consider the warranty if you’re still within the mileage. Might as well let them pay.


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I misplaced my paper work when i cleaned out my glove box, i haven't had a chance to call Hyundai yet. I know normally the 100k is for first owners and I had to go in before my 60k for a knock sensor issue. I am not OG owner
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Hyundai shows all the parts for it. And it is a copy of the ZF 6sp VW used in the Porsche I think. They had issues. The fluid that is recommended for them here in the states is AC Delco 10-4014 Amazon.com: ACDelco 10-4014 Friction Modified Synchromesh Manual Transmission Fluid - 32 oz: Automotive

I use it and am quite happy with it. I also use a half bottle of Ceratec from Liquid Moly.
If I was to do a full flush how much of this would i need? I was looking and saw it was like just over 2qts? Can you guys confirm?
 

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2 qts for the fill per manual but you woun't get all the old out. Last time I measured the drained fluid at 3.75 quarts.

But I would get 4 quarts and change again after a couple thousand miles.

And look for a new drain plug washer for the second change. A 15/16" socket fits better than the metric size and it will be on tight. If you want a magnetic plug PM me.

I use a 4' piece of clear 3/8" OD tubing and a small funnel that will fit inside (1/4") to fill from the engine compartment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Im gonna go ahead and ask another quick question. I was looking up about clutch peddle adjustment. I'll quote what I read.

"adjust the rod at the pedal to get rid of all the pedal jiggle/slop of the rod between pedal and cup of the piston in the clutch mater... too tight and you can hold piston in and fluid cannot return to master as pedal released...

Loose jiggly pedal is lost fluid movement to release clutch, that bad... hard to put in gear, disc dragged by flywheel on 1 side, and pressure plate on other.." from https://www.hyundaiforum.com/forum/hyundai-tiburon-23/clutch-adjustment-8097/


*Edit* I do have a little slop at the top of the release do you feel like this is something that could cause an issue and might be something to try before pulling the trans out again?
 
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