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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi guys, I just installed my AEM gauges into the factory location on my 2013 2.0T, so I thought I'd document and share the process. I did not use GCP's method of shaving the plastic gauge mount as I wanted to retain all factory parts in case I ever pull the gauges out and sell the car or something.

Tools Used

  1. Putty Knife
  2. Flathead & Phillips Head Screwdriver
  3. Socket Wrench
  4. 10mm, 12mm, o2 Sensor Socket
  5. Wire Cutter/Stripper
  6. Butt connectors
  7. Ring Terminals
  8. Add-a-Fuse
  9. Universal grommet kit

I chose to install the AEM Boost, Wideband AFR and Oil Temperature gauges in my car, so this write up leans towards those 3 specific gauges as you would imagine.


STEP 1 - Take off the shifter knob. Slide the putty knife between the dash and shifter trim and crank up on it gently to pop the clips. Do it on both sides.


STEP 2 - Once the trim has been popped off, just lift it straight out.


STEP 3 - Use a flat head screw driver (putty knife was a bit too flimsy) and push it in between the soft dash trim and the center console and pry it gently to release the clips. Start on one side at the bottom and work to the top, then switch to the other side.


STEP 4 - Pull the center console out towards you. Unfortunately the wiring is pretty tight back there, so you can't pull it out too far. Just pull it out far enough to disconnect all the wires at the back. At this point you should probably be safe and un-hook your battery.


STEP 5 - Once the wires are disconnected, pull the center console out and put it aside. You can see all the wires back there in this photo. Don't worry about where they go, they're all different plugs so they only go in one spot each.


STEP 6 - Admire your factory gauges. Soon they will be gone! :D


STEP 7 - There are four (4) phillips head screws holding the gauge cluster in, so unscrew them and it pulls right out.


STEP 8 - At this point if you wish to modify the plastic gauge mount, you can unclip the gauge trim rings and pull it apart. I skipped this part because I wanted to save all the factory pieces just in case.


STEP 9 - Test fit the gauges. The AEM ones are 52mm as standard, but there's lots of play in the stock gauge holes. I pulled the gauge trim rings off and layered about 8 or 9 layers of electrical tape around the top of the gauge by the front to bring the size up, then I put the black elastic bands that come with the gauges over-top to make them bigger so they would wedge-in nicely and be snug. And they were! They don't budge.


STEP 10 - I ran the wires through the same hole the hood release latch runs through into the engine bay. Pop the grommet out and use a drill with a high speed metal drill bit and make the hole bigger! Make it big enough that you can fit all the gauge's harnesses through it. The Wideband one is way too big, so run that in backwards. Run the harness that plugs into the gauge through the firewall from the engine bay into the car. That's the easiest way.

To gain access to the hole under the engine bay, use a 10mm socket and remove the 3 ECU bolts and just pull the ECU out of the way. There are 2 relays down there as well, unhook those from their mounting spots to get maximum room to work with.


STEP 11 - Of course run the wires through the new grommet first! :D Here's a picture from inside the driver's side foot well showing you the grommet location inside the car and all the new wires running through it.



STEP 12 - Start fishing the wires up behind the dash. There's a small area that you can pass all the wiring through and up into the center console area. Shine a light back there until you see it and start pulling the wires through.


STEP 13 - I used the add-a-fuse method as I didn't want to tap into any wires. There is a couple nuts under the driver's side foot well that can be used for a solid ground. I used the ring connectors and ran the ground to one of them. There's a few, so you shouldn't have a problem finding a solid ground. Most if not all of them are 12mm under there.


STEP 14 - Hook up the boost pressure line, t-connector and boost pressure sensor included with the gauge. I zip tied the sensor to one of the wiring looms as you can see in the picture (Don't zip tie the boost pressure line for obvious reasons :D). Plug the wire into the sensor and zip tie it to where ever you can to clean up the engine bay.


STEP 15 - Install the wideband sensor into your o2 housing. Run the Wideband wiring over to the exhaust and plug it into your wideband sensor. Zip tie galore again to de-clutter the engine bay!


STEP 16 - Plug the wiring into the back of the gauges, then pop the center console and shifter trim pieces back in.


Here's the finished product.

NOTE: I did not hook up the oil temp gauge as my sandwich adapter hasn't arrived yet. I zip tied the sensor under the hood to another wire loom just to keep it out of the way until I get the adapter installed for the oil filter housing.

Here's a quick video of the gauges working after the install.

If I missed anything, let me know. I've never done a HOW-TO before, so this may make no sense. :D
 

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Dude, awesome DIY! Looks great.. Where did you order your gauges from?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Dude, awesome DIY! Looks great.. Where did you order your gauges from?
Thanks! I ordered the gauges from Rob at Uniq Performance. Unbeatable price for all 3!

Nice write up. You said you enlarged the hole for the hood release? Also are all the gauges hooked up to the one add a circuit? And finally is that a switched lead in the fuse box?
Yep, I actually removed the factory grommet and drilled out the whole to a larger size, then bought a set of universal grommets and used the largest one and put all the wires and the hood latch release cable through it.

I hooked them all up to a single add-a-circuit into the ABS fuse location. This one tested power at "Ignition On" only so I used it, as I didn't want the gauges to turn on when the key was in the accessory position.

That's the add-a-circuit in the picture of the fuse panel.
 

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Drakkcoil, that's one heck of an awesome write up.

Comparing yours to GCP's EVO gauges that he used, he claims that he has to dremel the console holes a little to fit the 52MM gauges, whereas you didn't because you applied tape. Can you explain your experience and why he would have had to dremel them out?

Also, can you link us to the oil temp sandwich adapter that you ordered? I'm thinking of adding 3 more gauges to replace the stock ones because I already have 2 pillar gauges now, but I'm unfamiliar with what our size filters can use for the oil adapter.

Thanks in advance!
 

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I just read the first post again, sorry, please disregard the question about the shaving off the stock plastic, but the other question still applies for the adapter.

Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·

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I ordered this one: Oil Filter Sandwich Plate Adapter, by Mishimoto

Probably one of the more expensive ones, but I'm not sure if I trust the other brands. Some other threads have links to cheaper ones from Glowshift. Here is a link to that: Oil Cooler Sandwich Adapter - 20mm 1.5 Thread
This is great! Thank you for the link. I would also go with the one you went with. Would you mind updating us somehow on how your adapter install went? I"m very interested in this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I certainly will! Should be pretty straight forward. Unscrew the Oil Filter, screw on the adapter plate, screw the new oil filter in... While doing an oil change of course. :D I already have the wire for the oil temp sensor in the engine bay zip-tied up to another wiring loom, so the fun part will be finding out the best place to run the wire. I'll update the original post when I get that finished up.
 

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I certainly will! Should be pretty straight forward. Unscrew the Oil Filter, screw on the adapter plate, screw the new oil filter in... While doing an oil change of course. :D I already have the wire for the oil temp sensor in the engine bay zip-tied up to another wiring loom, so the fun part will be finding out the best place to run the wire. I'll update the original post when I get that finished up.
That would be most wonderful, thanks bud!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
very nice! although i'd like to see if there was a way (maybe with bondo?) to angle the gauges towards the driver. the oil temp one looks like it's unreadable.
There's probably a way to get them angled better, but honestly with the AEM gauges the only thing you really need to see are the digital read outs in the center of the gauge which are 100% viewable on all 3 gauges.

The only part of the oil temp gauge you can't see is the left side of the LED sweep. Not a big deal as the center is perfectly readable.
 

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That is great with the digital read outs so you get an exact number.

Big favor when you get the oil temp gauge hooked up, can you report back the exact number you get full boost since you get a digital readout.
 

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That is great with the digital read outs so you get an exact number.

Big favor when you get the oil temp gauge hooked up, can you report back the exact number you get full boost since you get a digital readout.
^ Yes this please! ^
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Will do! Hopefully I'll have it hooked up in the next 2 weeks.


Sent from my iPhone using Autoguide
 

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Will do! Hopefully I'll have it hooked up in the next 2 weeks.


Sent from my iPhone using Autoguide
Awesome, thanks drakk!


Sent from my iPhone using AG Free
 

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Wow this is awesome! Love the write up. Wish that I had this sort of technical prowess. Any chance you're going to be down in GA lol, I still can't find anyone around here that I would trust to install aftermarket gauges.
 

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Subbed for win
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Wow this is awesome! Love the write up. Wish that I had this sort of technical prowess. Any chance you're going to be down in GA lol, I still can't find anyone around here that I would trust to install aftermarket gauges.
I've been looking for a good reason to road trip it back to Georgia. It's been years since I've spent a good deal of time there! I love that state. :D
 

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Come on down... Free room and board if you do this install for me lol. Personally I hate Georgia but it's only temporarily... I hope.
 
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