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hey guys. im just in the middle of installing the AEM gauges in the stock location as well. my question is, is there a problem with just splicing into the wires to the stock oil temp sensor for the gauge? I would think it would give you a perfect reading? unless for some reason it screws with the signal.
 

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I cant quite see where the vac hoses are connected to for the boost T-fitting in the picture for step 14. can someone clarify please?
 

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What fuses did you use for the add a circuit? Also, does the positive wire from the boost gauge connect dirrectly to the butt connector of the add a circuit?
Usually a 10Amp fuse. The butt connector of the add a fuse is the positive connection to the batt, so yes.
 

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Hi guys, I just installed my AEM gauges into the factory location on my 2013 2.0T, so I thought I'd document and share the process. I did not use GCP's method of shaving the plastic gauge mount as I wanted to retain all factory parts in case I ever pull the gauges out and sell the car or something.

Tools Used

  1. Putty Knife
  2. Flathead & Phillips Head Screwdriver
  3. Socket Wrench
  4. 10mm, 12mm, o2 Sensor Socket
  5. Wire Cutter/Stripper
  6. Butt connectors
  7. Ring Terminals
  8. Add-a-Fuse
  9. Universal grommet kit

I chose to install the AEM Boost, Wideband AFR and Oil Temperature gauges in my car, so this write up leans towards those 3 specific gauges as you would imagine.


STEP 1 - Take off the shifter knob. Slide the putty knife between the dash and shifter trim and crank up on it gently to pop the clips. Do it on both sides.


STEP 2 - Once the trim has been popped off, just lift it straight out.


STEP 3 - Use a flat head screw driver (putty knife was a bit too flimsy) and push it in between the soft dash trim and the center console and pry it gently to release the clips. Start on one side at the bottom and work to the top, then switch to the other side.


STEP 4 - Pull the center console out towards you. Unfortunately the wiring is pretty tight back there, so you can't pull it out too far. Just pull it out far enough to disconnect all the wires at the back. At this point you should probably be safe and un-hook your battery.


STEP 5 - Once the wires are disconnected, pull the center console out and put it aside. You can see all the wires back there in this photo. Don't worry about where they go, they're all different plugs so they only go in one spot each.


STEP 6 - Admire your factory gauges. Soon they will be gone! :D


STEP 7 - There are four (4) phillips head screws holding the gauge cluster in, so unscrew them and it pulls right out.


STEP 8 - At this point if you wish to modify the plastic gauge mount, you can unclip the gauge trim rings and pull it apart. I skipped this part because I wanted to save all the factory pieces just in case.


STEP 9 - Test fit the gauges. The AEM ones are 52mm as standard, but there's lots of play in the stock gauge holes. I pulled the gauge trim rings off and layered about 8 or 9 layers of electrical tape around the top of the gauge by the front to bring the size up, then I put the black elastic bands that come with the gauges over-top to make them bigger so they would wedge-in nicely and be snug. And they were! They don't budge.


STEP 10 - I ran the wires through the same hole the hood release latch runs through into the engine bay. Pop the grommet out and use a drill with a high speed metal drill bit and make the hole bigger! Make it big enough that you can fit all the gauge's harnesses through it. The Wideband one is way too big, so run that in backwards. Run the harness that plugs into the gauge through the firewall from the engine bay into the car. That's the easiest way.

To gain access to the hole under the engine bay, use a 10mm socket and remove the 3 ECU bolts and just pull the ECU out of the way. There are 2 relays down there as well, unhook those from their mounting spots to get maximum room to work with.


STEP 11 - Of course run the wires through the new grommet first! :D Here's a picture from inside the driver's side foot well showing you the grommet location inside the car and all the new wires running through it.



STEP 12 - Start fishing the wires up behind the dash. There's a small area that you can pass all the wiring through and up into the center console area. Shine a light back there until you see it and start pulling the wires through.


STEP 13 - I used the add-a-fuse method as I didn't want to tap into any wires. There is a couple nuts under the driver's side foot well that can be used for a solid ground. I used the ring connectors and ran the ground to one of them. There's a few, so you shouldn't have a problem finding a solid ground. Most if not all of them are 12mm under there.


STEP 14 - Hook up the boost pressure line, t-connector and boost pressure sensor included with the gauge. I zip tied the sensor to one of the wiring looms as you can see in the picture (Don't zip tie the boost pressure line for obvious reasons :D). Plug the wire into the sensor and zip tie it to where ever you can to clean up the engine bay.


STEP 15 - Install the wideband sensor into your o2 housing. Run the Wideband wiring over to the exhaust and plug it into your wideband sensor. Zip tie galore again to de-clutter the engine bay!


STEP 16 - Plug the wiring into the back of the gauges, then pop the center console and shifter trim pieces back in.


Here's the finished product.

NOTE: I did not hook up the oil temp gauge as my sandwich adapter hasn't arrived yet. I zip tied the sensor under the hood to another wire loom just to keep it out of the way until I get the adapter installed for the oil filter housing.

Here's a quick video of the gauges working after the install.

If I missed anything, let me know. I've never done a HOW-TO before, so this may make no sense. :D
Reviving a old thread here but i’m a little confused. The pictures don’t wanna load for some reason so i’m wondering if you made a new bung on your 02 for the air to fuel ratio or if your just running short one sensor?
 
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