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How can AIT stay lower than outside temp without spraying?

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shorttrack
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How can AIT stay lower than outside temp without spraying?

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Evaporation of the water within the intake under velocity of flow carries the heat away from the manifold thus is the reason my intake is cool to the touch .Very simple concept like the large chiller misting fans .
 

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Evaporation of the water within the intake under velocity of flow carries the heat away from the manifold thus is the reason my intake is cool to the touch .Very simple concept like the large chiller misting fans .
For some reason I read it as if you were getting this temp without spraying....makes more sense.

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shorttrack
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You have data logging abilities just as I ,try it and see for your self .You can make a Ghetto system if not wanting to spend for a true W/M,make a temporary W/M system from a windshield washer kit with a on off switch while using 1 nozzle in the spraying of DISTILLED water just before the TB .Your IAT's will be at about 77 degrees with the use of the type of CAI you are using which is similar to mine ( CAI system plumbed to the fog light vent) , actually your IAT will be less if using a manual switch because you could turn the W/M on or at any speed or RPM vs were as mine( AEM w/controller) only comes on after 2,700 rpm's under load . In the end power gained because ECU will not have the elevated IAT deg's and pull ignition timing during spirited runs .
 

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andbudzi it is a good cheap mod to do and worth it .
 

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For some reason I read it as if you were getting this temp without spraying....makes more sense.

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Heat down here in Texas during summer is crazy ,I had to figure out the best way to get that sluggish response out of my car during stop and go driving after heat sinking and this was it .No amount of wrapping insulation helped ,Water/meth using distilled water was the answer .
 

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shorttrack
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Where is your IAT sensor located?
about 5 inches from my throttle body within the cold air intake elbow tubing section .My cold air intake system is custom and truly functioning,not like the BS systems offered by most vendors and shops .
 

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3D Wizard
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First, thanks to Titan for creating this thread. It's super valuable information. Second, where do you stand on metallic heat wrapping vs. ceramic coating for the intake manifold? Any benefit on doing this relatively early in a build to lower IATs, or would it be better suited to do it after being fully bolt-on'ed?
 

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This is the stuff. You can get it at Autozone or Amazon (same price). You can get your manifold ceramic coated, but in addition to keeping the heat out, it also keeps the heat in. This is fine for headers, but not the manifolds.
Aluminum Barrier: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00029KC2K/?coliid=I2HW48YTMDFTDD&colid=1EXLW49LAN06K&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

1.5 inch cool tape: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000E283S0/?coliid=IZ4B3CYVSBOM8&colid=1EXLW49LAN06K&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
 

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Thanks.

For the sound tube I just removed it so it's out of the way. Some people cap it off, but I just left it exposed.
@titan2782-What is the optimal MAP location on the top of the airbox? Is it optimal in the location shown in the picture?
Also, so I'm clear, this works better than the Injen SRI?
-Thanks
 

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@titan2782-What is the optimal MAP location on the top of the airbox? Is it optimal in the location shown in the picture?
Also, so I'm clear, this works better than the Injen SRI?
-Thanks
Yes, OEM intake with aftermarket filter is hands down better than SRI

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Yes, OEM intake with aftermarket filter is hands down better than SRI

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Thanks. Is the yes for the MAP sensor being in the best position?
 

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Thanks.

For the sound tube I just removed it so it's out of the way. Some people cap it off, but I just left it exposed.
Where did you hook the vacuum line that was connected to the sound tube? I believe it's the brake booster??? -thanks
 

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Where did you hook the vacuum line that was connected to the sound tube? I believe it's the brake booster??? -thanks
There are no vac line coming to sound tube.

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There are no vac line coming to sound tube.

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Actually there is. Maybe not on manuals but most definitely on autos. I will be attaching it to the airbox where the MAP sensor used to be. Atm I put a cone filter on it so it doesn't suck debris into the system.
 

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Actually there is. Maybe not on manuals but most definitely on autos. I will be attaching it to the airbox where the MAP sensor used to be. Atm I put a cone filter on it so it doesn't suck debris into the system.


I was wondering the same thing. I believe it is a brake booster. But why would autos have it but not manuals?

No issues with that cone filter on there? I’d also be curious to see your install into the air box.


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I was wondering the same thing. I believe it is a brake booster. But why would autos have it but not manuals?

No issues with that cone filter on there? I’d also be curious to see your install into the air box.


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No issues with the filter. It's normally plugged into the sound tube whi H is getting air from the intake tube and that's going through a filter.

Regarding why it's not on the manual, I'm not sure other than to say a manual used both engine braking as well as from the actual brakes. On an AT that engine braking doesn't happen until late in the process.
 

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Where did you hook the vacuum line that was connected to the sound tube? I believe it's the brake booster??? -thanks


I can confirm this is in fact a brake booster vacuum line. Unhooked it to reroute my catch can line. Brakes were hard as a rock when I got back in to start my car. Pressure came back after startup. Scared the crap out of me tho lol.


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Ouch...

My friend seems bound and determined to get one of these cars(hit his fancy I guess). He likes my car (not hyundai) and has helped me build mine. Now he has an itch for a car to build. I read the build plan/guide and see what little he can expect to get... Im gonna have to make him read this if he wants a car that you can work on and notice small differences. The gains you listed are what I got from a 100$ canned flash (mhd app stage 1+) for my car bumped me to 360 wheel hp(yay turbo's). I cant imagine putting that much work in for small gains. Its about the same work i have put into my car FBO and stage 2+custom tune. Dont get me wrong I enjoyed reading the build and congrat you for steering other members in the right direction to make REAL gains. Personally want to feel a reward for my work. Hopefully I find an as well written guide to forced induction builds on these cars.

Thank You
Tom
 
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