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I'd rather do it myself
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It would be cool to have a list for all body grounding points in both the BK1 and 2 2.0Ts and 3.8s so we could go in and sand down the paint. Any volunteers to make said list, possibly with pictures? Lol
Really no need to sand down the paint if you double up on the ground cable and go to the engine block. The trans, block and heads are all aluminum so they ground themselves.

The good ground needs to be to the block as that is where the alternator is grounded and the alternator is the source of voltage when the car is running. All current the alternator puts out must return to the alternator frame.
 

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Really no need to sand down the paint if you double up on the ground cable and go to the engine block. The trans, block and heads are all aluminum so they ground themselves.

The good ground needs to be to the block as that is where the alternator is grounded and the alternator is the source of voltage when the car is running. All current the alternator puts out must return to the alternator frame.
Do you mind posting a DIY on how to better ground the alternator and motor. I did the snoopy negative cable upgrade and did notice a difference with my car. I would like to ground all locations which are needed to be grounded.
 

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I'd rather do it myself
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Do you mind posting a DIY on how to better ground the alternator and motor. I did the snoopy negative cable upgrade and did notice a difference with my car. I would like to ground all locations which are needed to be grounded.
On my 2L the engine to frame ground is on the drivers side. I just piggybacked another ground wire from there to the OEM location on the passenger fender and doubled that up.

There are closer spots to the passenger fender ground point to use on the block. Any bolt will do as long as it's big enough.
 

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3point8 Performance
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I don't think the BK2 needs additional grounds unless you're upgrading to a 10awg or bigger for amps. However , I'd be interested in seeing a set of readings before and after install, both with car on and off to see what the changes are. With just the paint sanding I gained 0.5V.
 

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I don't think the BK2 needs additional grounds unless you're upgrading to a 10awg or bigger for amps. However , I'd be interested in seeing a set of readings before and after install, both with car on and off to see what the changes are. With just the paint sanding I gained 0.5V.
I will dremmel the ground points on the driver side and there is also a ground point under the air box. This is on a 2013 3.8
 

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I got the battery ground done using my cordless Dremel which made it easier. I discovered my battery warmer wasn't working and it had water in it so I'm not sure how that got in there or when.
 

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Just did this after spending a few months trying to diagnose bad battery issues, sluggish windows, flickering lights, poor engine performance, etc. While running the car the alternator would only provide about 12.9V or 13.2V to the battery and constantly fluctuate. After cleaning the contact points this immediately shot up to 14.2V and no more issues with the entire car.

Check your grounds! I don't know why Hyundai opted to put a bare metal plate on a painted surface with painted bolts, but they did! If you're having unusual battery issues and live on the east coast, check those contacts!
 

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Don't worry if you don't have a dremel, all you really need is a 10mm socket wrench. Just did this and I didn't even unplug the battery; I just loosened the 10mm bolts holding the negative plate just enough to fit some sandpaper under it, then sanded off the paint between the left bolt and the end of the plate. That part alone is plenty of surface area. Put some dielectric grease all around, re-tighten and off you go...Electricity takes the path of least resistance. :smile:
 
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