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[HowTo] Wastegate Actuator Arm Adjustment

187K views 492 replies 166 participants last post by  2011Coupegt2.0TD05h 
#1 · (Edited)
So in our never ending quest to find free mods, Hyundai has yet again kicked butt and deciced to give us an adjustable wastegate actuator. What this does is allow us to change the preload on the wastegate itself, which will allow the car to hold more boost. I was a bit doubtful that it would work on our cars because of the more sophisticated ECUs...i was worried it would still do whatever it needed to do to maintain target boost and thus net no gain. So far so good though, car immediately held more boost and gained torque. Unfortunately the dyno guys didnt have the boost sensor hooked up so we could see the actual before and after psi difference, but the dyno definitely speaks. There is definitely a spike in there but i think that is just from us not resetting the ECU and not giving the car anytime to learn. Hopefully once it learns it will smooth it out.


On to the HowTo

1. Remove Turbo heat shield (3) 10mm Bolts
2. Loosen the 10mm Nut that locks the end of the wastegate actuator arm. Back it up to about the end of the threads.
3. Take off the "C-Clip" with a pliers. Be careful and this will like to fly off while you are taking it off and you dont want to lose this.
4. Lift the "swivel bracket" off of the wastegate flapper door bracket. This is the part that we will be turning to shorten the overall length of the wastegate actuator arm.
5. Turn the "swivel bracket" clockwise, as if you were sitting behind the turbo looking at the front of the car. We turned it 2.5 complete turns but i would suggest turning 1.5 times or so and see how the car responds.
6. Place "Swivel bracket" back on wastegate flapper door bracket.
7. Replace "C-Clip".
8. Tighten 10mm Nut.
9. Replace turbo heat sheild (3) 10mm Bolts.





And on to the results. This is OEM vs. OEM w/ wastegate arm adjustment. Literally taken 10 minutes apart.



Video of the pulls. Make sure to watch the 3rd pull.


Justin
 
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#2 ·
Nice, I gave mine a few turns myself a few days after I got it. Between this adjustment, the mbc, and the intake silencer delete the car feels much better IMO. Glad to see some numbers for changing the preload, did you guys log the boost at all to see if that held any better?
 
#3 ·
will be trying this tongiht as soon as i get home
 
#7 ·
Not pointless actually, especially considering that the stock WG with the stock solenoid attached will still attempt to act stock. The computer in this car WILL try to compensate for what it sees as "unpredicted" conditions, you can be sure of that. We have yet to be told what the release pressure of the stock WG even is but I will bet that it's somewhere in the neighborhood of 8-9psi unregulated. A few turns on the adjustment arm should increase the boost by a few psi but more importantly should help the WG flapper hold longer under exhaust load. It's especially not pointless if you plan on upgrading the turbo later on (which IMO a good number of people will).
 
#10 ·
I did 2 fulls turns, and it got my boost to 18psi. There is a bit of a parallax effect and I am trying to stay in my lane so as not to stare at the gauge, but it was very close to 18 and the ECU never cut off the boost. That kind of makes me think, it was 17.5? But it was just short of 15 from the dealership, and well past 16 after 2 turns on WG. That was all 1st through 3rd gear.

4-6th gear, the gauge never went past 14, and fell much quicker, I am assuming the ECU did this?
 
#13 ·
So I'm guessing with the 1.5 turn recommendation for the swivel joint that it's ok to rotate the actuator arm itself?

Sorry for the noob question, don't want to break anything.
 
#14 ·
No, do not try to twist the actuator rod, this may (will) tear the diaphragm inside the actuator depending on construction. I'd even support it from turning while loosening or tightening the jam nut against the clevis (swivel bracket) as a precaution.

It takes a small flathead and about 5 seconds to pop the clip off. Break the 10mm jam nut loose before removing the clip.

This whole process takes about 3 minutes start to finish on a cool engine.
 
#19 ·
Ahhhh. I was thinking a turn was 180 not 360. I'll give it a shot tomorrow now that I won't break anything.
 
#22 ·
Just did it this morning and can't say that I noticed any more noise from the exhaust... Definitely got a little more pick up though.

Did you reset the ECU after adjusting?
 
#24 ·
Excuse my ignorance, but what does the reset accomplish and how is it done?

Also, would you feel compelled to return the rod to it's original position if you had to take it to the dealer for a non-related problem?
 
#28 ·
Thanks CH. I thought that boosting a turbo's pressure can cause damage. I got that idea from a post by Buscher:

"Quote:
Originally Posted by Cold71
Sounds very easy! Quick noob question for you, is it possiable to damage anything in my engine or wear out any parts quicker by turning up the boost too high? Thanks.

Yes you can do some SEVERE damage by running too much boost in any car. It has to be tuned and setup to run increased boost. The Coupe stock runs low boost and also runs rich.

The ECU in the Coupe wont let it get into that unsafe range. It limits boost to 18psi in stock form."

I guess my question is: how much boost is too much?
 
#29 ·
its not possible to get to much boost out of the genesis. boost cut limits you to 17.8 or something.
 
#33 ·
Can't say that it's a "OMG my car is super fast now" but it definitely gives it a little extra grunt below 4500, tires spin much easier now (good or bad, not sure) and when it downshifts to second the extra torque is nice.
 
#37 ·
I've tried out this little upgrade, and reset the ECU. Nice to get a bit of torque with a small adjustment. Before I touched the locknut on the arm, there was already a chunk of paint chipped off in a line matching up with another paint chip as maybe a mark of how much the nut was tightened on the arm..? I noticed other marks in the engine showing tightness marks on screws, etc. but they were marked with colored paint.

I wonder if someone other than the factory already adjusted my actuator arm, hmm. Well now I've turned it 1.5 turns myself.
 
#38 ·
Same for me. It wasn't a painted line, it looked more like a burned line. The line is there so they can tell if it's been tampered with...but if you do either 1 or 2 full turns, the lines still match up, and they would really have to look for it if they wanted to see if you modded it.
 
#39 ·
Did this today along with the silencer.

Gave it 2 full turns. Could definitely feel some extra pick-up from going from a dead stop. Noticable difference from 1k - 4k RPM. I don't rev past 4k anyways so this will do just fine.

Hardest part of the whole process was NOT losing the C-clasp. =)
 
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